Hi guys-

I am buttoning up the rear disk conversion on my '96 EX sedan (with factory ABS). My stock proportioning valve has 4 ports and the EM1 Si proportioning valve I need to be using has 6 ports. The castings for both proportioning valves look the same except my stocker only has 4 ports that are tapped (look at the pictures for more clarification).

I've searched everywhere but haven't been able to find any information on this particular issue.

I've thought about just plugging the two extra ports that I don't need on the EM1 valve but I can't find any M10x1.0 inverted flare plugs anywhere on the internet.

PLEASE HELP!

 

how bout making the image visible? they are in a private library.

also afaik the prop valve is located within the abs unit on abs equipped cars, and it is separate on non abs cars...

 

The pictures should be available now.

I was able to resolve my issue by using a combination of brake fitting adapter and brake line plugs. I'll list the part numbers just in case someone else runs into this issue.

Edelmann 270300 Adapter x2
Edelmann 120300 Solid Plug x2

 

This is the first time I have ever seen this.

have you had the chance to get them bleed and drive it?

 

I won't get a chance to bleed the brakes until tomorrow. Once I do I will update the thread with the results.

With the old prop valve I was able to lock up the rear brakes pretty easy when using a lot of pedal pressure. I'm excited to see how the new prop valve reacts.

To make things even weirder my car has a 15/16" master cylinder which I didn't think was available for any EK.

 

I was able to bleed the brakes today using the proper Honda order. I got a ton of air out of the rear right wheel.

The front brakes now lock up before the rear brakes when using plenty of pedal pressure. The rear brake dragging has been reduced greatly but is still present. I completely disconnected the parking brake cable at the handle in order to eliminate maladjustment as a cause of the dragging. Next, I will try lubricating the caliper slide pins to eliminate the the rest of the dragging. If that doesn't solve the issue then I guess its time to buy some fancy new calipers.

 

So both rear brakes were dragging but for two different reasons.

Rear Right: The upper caliper pin was rusted in the closed position. This caused the pads to constantly be squeezing the rotor. I was unable to remove the rusted pin so I purchased a new caliper bracket, pins, and boots.

Rear Left: It appears that a really old brake shim had at some point rusted and fused to the caliper bracket. This caused the pad to become wedged into the caliper bracket and unable to slide. I sanded down the old, rusted shim.

The problem has been solved! The rear right pad has a strange wear pattern due to it making contact with the rotor at a weird angle, however.