Well she fell in my hands and it's time to get down this time around . I've fully built d16a6 long block and was great. But this New car I want to go all out . I've never had a turbo but I can handle power no problem. I just need help getting a good set up done. With advice on parts and size . I need Input on the top manufactures for custom turbo set up parts . What's the best turbo mani Also I want a big *** turbo . Whats the best internals , this new anti lag? , k20/24 for hi boost? . Thank you I know a lot you guys on here know you're stuff and have sick *** rides ! I just want a street beast and I want to take it to the track here and there. Again thanks .

 

If that was my car I'd leave it alone being that clean for a stock Si. It looks to be in excellent shape from just that one picture.

Then build one that really needs help from the ground up. Find another shell, either DX, HF, or and Si and go all out.

 

Screw that, build it. It is a lot nicer in the end if you start with something nice to begin with. I'd just block out your license plate number on your photos though.

Are you going to go all in at once, or do it in stages. Cause I'd recommend doing the k swap first, then turboing it after you have that working.

 

Like, maybe right now you drive it make sure everything is fine.

This winter do the k-swap. Next summer drive it around. Then the following winter do the engine rebuild and turbo.

It does two things for you. Incremental base lines, and funding dispersion. Don't forget about things like suspension and brakes though.

 

Definitely go with a K24/K20A build with forged internals, GT35R, and approach the limit of the stock sleeves. Pretty sure you can make close to 700HP on a stock sleeve K-series. After you've sunk $15,000 into it, take it for a drive and realize you can't handle 700HP.

The questions you asked make me believe you have no business doing what you want to do. "What's 'the best' anything" questions are impossible to answer. You have no goal aside from 'street beast'. A stripped out CRX with a B16A is a street beast. You can out pace 90% of stock cars on the road. You can run 14s all day, probably into the 13s with decent suspension and some seat time. That's faster than your average mustang on the road and definitely faster than your average driver.

Fast isn't fun. Experience is fun. My stock d15 non-vtec motor was a blast. It was just as fast as any idiot that wanted to line up on the street. Street racing is full of idiots. Keep it on the track. PSA paid by the Bush administration.

 

Yes she is very clean I'm the Second owner.never seen Crx floor mats nor a owners manual or nothing at all broken/ only left tail light is cracked and front left corner that's all. I'm going to start on suspension and brakes. I was going to mock up the k and go from there . But should I blow money on parts I'm going to pull off when I go turbo. The reason I asking about the best parts is for the fact a lot of you have been here and done this. I'm 30 and have had plenty of cars well over 700hp. I want this car for the track and street .

 

There goes a nice hard to find Si in good stock condition. It's you car though.
I have one piece of advice. Keep the stock parts you remove, don't throw them away. The car could be more valuable stock than modified if you want to sell it later and don't go through with the K $wap.

 

Stock rex's that clean are getting very rare and more valuable so I'm definitely in the camp that thinks you should leave it unmolested, but yes it's your car and I wish you the best of luck with whatever you decide to do with it.

 

hell cut the roof of it and cage it flare the back end, and put wings on it. Make sure you take out a functioning sunroof and epoxy over or better yet, sheet metal-screw a panel over it… then slam it and crash your rad support up on the first driveway that has a bump.

JK. Good job killing another one, just makes my 2 stock units go up in value when you do the swap

There is a s reason that stock ones will be bringing 25k all day long in a few years, to keep them from getting into the wrong hands.

 

I understand this is just the commonly accepted "rule of thumb" and has been for 15 years on the interwebz, and I too used to try to block out my license plate.

But as I've gotten older I've started to wonder why this is?

How is somebody seeing a picture of your license plate online any different than the public seeing your license plate on the street? Is there some unbeknownst-to-me system that allows civilians free access to somebody's personal information and/or address simply based on plate number? I think people assume this, but there really isn't - at least not to civilians in Texas that I'm aware of.

Not trying to hassle you, just genuinely curious.

I once saw a very nice 92-94 Maxima SE 5 speed manual sitting in a Walmart parking lot for about a solid month some years back when I was in college. It had some flats and looked like somebody sort of gave up on it/abandoned it there. I'm a 3rd generation Maxima enthusiast and the 92-94 SE 5 speed is the cream of the crop and rare, so I wanted to try to get my hands on it. I went up to it and got the VIN and of course the plate number. I spent days online trying to find a way to figure out the owner information simply because I wanted to try to buy the car from them. I was never able to accomplish that even with heavy web-searching. There were a bunch of sites that claimed to be able to show me that info, for a fee of course!, but many were spam-tastic and none seemed legit.

 

If you plan to go with a 700HP build, you'll need safety that you cannot achieve with a full interior. If it is clean enough to have the stock mats, I would also look for a new chassis to build. On the flip side, if you plan on keeping a full interior and going with a swap, I'm all for that. You can keep the car incredibly clean and still do brakes, suspension and a swap. I do not think a new motor will decrease the value of this car. However, hacking it up to put a cage in it would definitely be a disaster in my opinion.

 

My CRX is clean as *****........When I yanked out the POS D16A6 etc... zero ****** were given. We are not talking about modding a bone stock clean 65 mustang or 69 Camaro etc... its a CRX. When you consider the cost of a good paint job modding a clean stock CRX makes a lot of sense.

 

Its always easier to start modding with a clean car, modding a trouble vehicle leads to way more headaches.

 

LOL excellent choice in vehicles. Here's my stable.