Hey Guys. I've just become a Honda owner again, for the first time since high school many years ago. I've picked up a 93 Del Sol with a D16 Turbo. Well the one thing that needs some attention is the steering rack. It's been converted to manual, via removing the pump etc and looping the pressure lines. It's also got one line where its just got a hose with a plug in it. The reason I'm looking at it, is there is a good amount of play in the steering wheel. It feels like it wanders a bit and I really want the steering fixed before I drive it much. My question is, is there anything I should look at before I just replace the whole rack? And if I do need to replace the rack, should I just replace it with a manual rack? Any insight on this would be great. Thanks guys.

So quick update:
I checked under the dash and all the bolts and connections are tight. I pulled off the cover underneath that's held on with the 3 10mm bolts and underneath it was caked with what seemed like red clay dirt. It was packed pretty solid. I went and adjusted the rack with that nut and it seems like it helped a lot. I think I need to tweak it a little more but it is some progress.

 

You should 1st inspect all bolts & tie-rods for play. Then try adjusting the steering rack like this:




Loosen the locknut on the rack guide screw with tool 07916-SA50001 or equivalent.
Tighten the guide screw until it compresses the spring against the guide; loosen it, torque it to about 3 ft. lbs. (4 Nm) and back it off about 25 degrees.
Torque the locknut to about 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) while preventing the guide screw from moving.

 

That's how I adjusted it. I checked everything else as well. Those were my first stops. The steering firmed up substantially. I think I need to back it out just a bit.

 

you'll feel a notch as you turn the wheel if it's too tight.
back it off til the notch goes away.

 

So what about in a wear case. Would it still do a notch? Because I am getting this on the original rack with 155k. Not trying to threadjack. Would loosening it help?

 

The notch-feel he's referring too is the inconsistency of the gear teeth machining. As the rack turns back & forth, the pinion is designed to move in & out to compensate allowing a consistent feel. The spring you are adjusting allows minimal movement while maintaining proper pressure between the rack & pinion gear teeth. If spring is set too tight, it will coil-bind at certain points while you are turning. This is where you experience resistance and notchy feeling.

My point is this is not a wear condition. You might feel something similar though if you get some kind of corrosion. Perhaps in the gear teeth or the the barrel the seal rides against.

 

Appreciate the insight.