It's that point in time where I need a fresh set of rotors for the dc5 and I was hoping some of you guys had experience with a setup that was reliable.

 

Is this a daily driver?

I have Hawk HPS pads and Centric rotors on my 98 Civic Sedan that work great.

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resul...3&autoModClar=

 

Yeah it's a daily driver which is why I'm looking for a more conservative setup instead of a aggressive one. Thanks man! I'll look into it and if I have any more questions I'll be sure to ask

 

My advice would be to go on rockauto.com and pick either...

Option 1: a cheap set of blank rotors.

Option 2: centric's electroplated rotors that have the anti corrosion coating on them.

Buy good pads. Pads are what makes the big difference. Rockauto sells centric stoptech street performance under their "heavy duty" section of pads. They're excellent DD performance pads....and they're affordable.

Ceramic pads last longer, but they tend to leave deposits on the rotor that cause pulsation. This really shouldn't be an issue with a street driven DC5...but I'd still rather not use ceramics personally. A decent ceramic, despite all that, is the Akebono performance ceramic.

 

I DD doesn't really need anything crazy, they won't be seeing much abuse. A solid set of pads with whatever cheap rotors is what I suggest too. I used stock rotors and -forget which ones- pads from rockauto without issue.

 

I bought cross drilled with lifetime warranty 1 year ago for 200 for all 4 it included pads. No problems if I do I call and send them a pic and they replace it free of charge.

I plan on keeping my rsx type s for 10 years so these brakes are a good investment. They also have the same warranty on the shocks.

Prime Choice is the vendor you can search them.

 

Please don't get cross drilled...

Centric blanks with the black e-coating are great.

 

Why not?

As long as they are drilled in a way that doesn't ruin integrity of the rotor. They will improve braking performance.
Now Cross Drilled rotors priced at 200 dollars together I would maybe question. But if he has a warranty... ah well.

 

Hi I drive hard I have a 250 whp rsx the center is e coated the concentric drills keep my braking cool my pads are lasting longer but when they go I call them and they send me free pads. I install them. I do all suspension braking wheel and basic engine repairs including gaskets valve springs and stems. You don't have to get cross drilled all I'm saying is they are inexpensive and work. Why pay 120 per rotor with no warranty. It's a waste of money.

I have 2 rsx type s cars 1 is k20/24 it's got a lot internals pushing 285 at the wheel it too has the cross drilled I got.

I don't work for them I don't care if you buy from them but I'm just sharing my experience with them. I also have shocks with a lifetime warranty.

Btw 200 canadian is like 170 US I paid canadian.

They meet and exceed oem specs.

If your tight on cash and you want to try it comes with a lifetime warranty you can choose no warranty and they are even cheaper. I saved just by buying them once.

I'll post pictures but somebody has to tell me how to.

 

I don't think you looked at my post.
I'm supportive of Cross drilled rotors. As long as they are good in integrity.

 

Cross drilled rotors dont increase performance. Thats not why they're drilled.

Think about it. That small circle is virtually frictionless. The pad is just touching air at each one of the drilled holes. If you add up all the holes, you have quite a bit less surface area. Its kind of like having a smaller rotor.

Your rotors will likely run hotter with drilled holes.

No...they're not for cooling. Drilling is usually done for weight reduction on very large rotors. That way, you still get applied torque on the rotor...and since its so huge, the loss in surface area is acceptable. Special pad compounds are also used.

Again: Blank rotors. Good pads.

 

The OP hasn't posted since he made this thread. I'd imagine we can stop this debate.

 

Odd fact: 95% of forum posts are created by people that ask a question and then throw their computer into a crocodile infested river.

My reply was to the poster(s) above.

 

General rule of thumb I'd say you are right B, but a well designed cross drilled rotor is a different story. I say general rule of thumb because most consumer cross drilled rotors are just them drilling holes any kind of way in vaned rotors which actually hinders performance of the rotor. As far as the the holes causing less friction due to less surface area. Hmmm, I'd have to think on that. Because I would think it causes friction similar to like a cheese grater. At low speeds I think blank rotors will perform be better and more practical. Because they are not getting hot and you get practical pad wear. But for high speeds or racing I think drilled rotors would be good. Better convection cooling and less glazing effect over the rotors(pad dependent).

 

I understood, I was just pointing something out in case it was overlooked by potential posters.

I believe this topic has been discussed a lot and there are some heated differences in opinion on the matter. It is similar to the 4-1 and 4-2-1 header debate. The OP wanted a DD brake setup and I think blank rotors with pads is the way to go for that. You get maximum surface area, cheap price, and increased performance from the upgraded pads. The rotor differences are mostly seen in circle track racing and heavy, repetitive, braking. I don't think the OP should be heat soaking his rotors under normal driving conditions.

 

I agree.
The OP should go with blank rotors. Unless he just wants the Drilled rotors for looks. To get a well designed rotor that's slotted or drilled. It's going to be pricey. The slotted ones I aim for in the future are like 700 dollars. RacingBrakes patent convergent vane design. But I plan to do occasional laps on the track, autoX, and downhill events.

 

$700 rotors for occasional track driving?? Wowza. I'm sure that the cost of replacing the rotor rings is affordable (assuming a floating rotor).

My S2000 sees an average of 1 HPDE/time attack track day per 1k street miles.

My rotors cost $25ish for centric blanks. I use them for about 5-6 days. Then they're garbage whether they're cracked yet or not. $25/5 = $4.16

If I bought fancy, expensive, $150+/ea rotors that are available, and let's say that by some sort of devine intervention, I got double life (12 days) out of a set of miracle rotors. Well.... $150/12 = $12.5

/math

Blank rotors. Good pads.

I can't imagine needing ANYTHING special for autocross unless you're extremely fast and looking to shave fractions of a second in order to win your "guy who came and hung out in the parking lot wearing the dumbest looking hat" trophy. And even then...it likely won't necessarily be to prevent fade...but to fine-tune brake torque, bias, and other characteristics. Because you're going like 12mph.

Properly "drilled" rotors require special casting. Without that, you run a greater risk of a crack propogating through the rotor, using the stress concentration of the holes as some sort of "connect the dots" game.

Cars with cross drilled rotors have quite a few unique features built into and around the braking system. Ducts, rotor size, pad size, compound, etc etc etc etc. All things that a 200hp RSX doesn't have.

These are all facts. If someone is debating whether a drilled rotor aids cooling...a little reading will assure them that it virtually doesn't (by itself).

 

I agree with everything you said besides the "they don't cool". THat's why I'm not going the drilled rotor route because I want something cost effective since I'm not a balla' or always on the racetrack guy.
I have ran slotted rotors before and I actually did more racing back then than I plan to nowadays. They lasted fine. No problems after 15 laps on a 1.8mile course.

Poorly designed drilled rotors won't cool and probably will give you the opposite effective you desire. But buying well engineered cross drilled rotors will. I won't do it because I'm not trying to be raceteam competitive nor do I have the money to maintain. Got dat childsupport yo.

But here's a read for you guys on this topic matter about test done with Cross drilled vs Blank rotors.
The Effect of Rotor Crossdrilling on Brake Performance

Now if you don't feel like forking out cash for an article.
Here's some discussions about the article.
Drilled vs slotted rotors, what is better? | eBay

this one is more detail discussion
The Effect of Rotor Crossdrilling on Brake Performance - E46Fanatics


*note I aim for those rotors in the future because I like their convergent vane design. I don't really care about the slots or holes. For now I will gladly run blanks with good pads until I feel the need to go that route.

 

Cool. Everyone has preferences. And its always good to gather info, though I don't quite see how cross drilling by itself would aid cooling. Either way, hopefully this thread isn't totally useless now.

 

Where did you get them? I need to buy rotors and pads for my DD EP3

 

tbh if you are going to go cross drilled I would go to a reputable braking company at the correct price.
He said he got his from Prime Choice. I went to take a look at their rotors. One thing I noticed right off the bat was how the slots were going to the edge of the rotor. Which hurts the integrity of the rotor. So if thats done then I can imagine the drilling isn't properly done either(they don't really give much engineering background on the rotors). I'm saying this just in case you are wanting better performance over looks. Rather than getting cheap drilled/slotted rotors that aren't done properly and hurting your performance. You would be better off getting some awesome pads and getting cheaper blank rotors.