alright so the ELD high circuit output code is giving me some trouble. I took a multi meter to the green/red to black on the ELD plugin and got no current. so i happened to have an extra complete harness laying around andwent ahead and swapped them out thinking that it was faulty wiring. code still came back. so now im thinking i might have a bad computer? car is a 1998 civic ex with a mini me swap that i did cause when i bought it it had the y7 lx motor in it so i threw a y8 head on changed wiring harness and intake so all was proper. let me know what you guys think. also has correct computer. p2p-a34
also my fuse 15 is not blown. im not pullling any other codes other than p1298, but my dash lights do flicker and speedometer doesnt work. checked the wiring where its said to rub on the intake bracket, and it all looks good.

 

i also checked voltage from black/white wire of ELD plugin to ground and got 12v. should that be?

 

What are the voltage readings on the two test tabs of fuse 15 with the key in ON(II)?

 

11.8v

 

Both tabs?

 

went out and redid it top tab was .48 and bottom was 12.4

 

Fuse is blown.

 

fuse is not blown lol

 

or do you mean theres an issue with the entire fuse block?

 

Keep saying this^ over and over again until somebody actually believes you.

 

i can keep pulling the fuse out over and over and still see that it is clearly not blown

 

No. Fuse 15 IS BLOWN.

 

Why do you assume that you would always be able to tell visually when a fuse is blown? The multimeter does not lie.

 

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...fuses-3079359/

 

ok wait. you didnt specify if i was to test with fuse in or out. my test was fuse out. i tested with fuse in just now and got 12v reading on both tabs. my bad for not knowing to test with fuse in

 

How did you do a voltage test with the fuse removed?

 

with key on there is power to fuse 15 cell with the fuse out. does that mean there is a short?

 

A removed fuse should have 0V on both test tabs because it is not attached to a power source. The power source is your battery in this case.

 

haha no i didnt test it on the fuse tabs with it off LOL i probed into the fuse block because that was before i knew what you meant by tabs. at first i thought you meant the tabs in the fuse block, but then i realized what you meant when you went on a montage of telling me i had a blown fuse.

 

so to conclude 12v on both fuse tabs. i also checked for continuity at ecu of the green/red wire that goes to eld and got nothing....

 

bump

 

well first off i would like to apologize Ron J., for me being somewhat of a dick to you, but i did figure out the problem. when i checked the wiring at the ecu plugins i saw what i thought was the green/red wire for the ELD because it was the only one even relevantly close, and to be honest i do have slight color blindness(at least thats what the eye dr said but i think hes full of complete ****) but anyway it was actually green/orange. the wire for the ELD that goes from green clip to the smaller gray clip that plugs into the ecu wasnt even ******* there. so this problem is fixed. thank you Ron for all the help i did learn some new things from you

 

Glad to hear you solved the problem.