So I decided to change my timing belt my self and seemed to messed up my timing how do I fix this and get my timing back to the way it should be

 

Buy a Haynes/Chilton manual, it has the procedure and illustrations of the timing marks in there. That is, if you haven't already tried starting the engine and knocked valve against piston.

[EDIT]:

Your camshaft will have marks for TDC (arrow pointing up and the line level with the mating surface for the valvecover), the key on the nose of the crankshaft should line up with an arrow cast into the block as well.

 

Do they all have marks that line up and should I just line all the marks up?

 

Yup.
Cam is easy, rotate it to UP and line the grooves on sprocket with the top of the head.
Crank is a little harder as the dot on the crank sprocket can be hard to see.
Front balance shaft is easy.
Rear balance shaft is a PITA as there are two timing marks.

Put the crank at TDC before removing anything. Remove plugs for easier rotation. If you are unsure of your timing, rotate the crank 90° from TDC and then rotate your cam to the UP position. This puts all the pistons midway up the cylinder(flat crank) so no damage will occur when turning the cam. Rotate crank back to TDC when Cam is UP. Place belt on, take slack out of the leading side between cam and crank and allow the self adjuster to remove the slack out of the trailing side by rotating crank counter clockwise. Lock down tension er via the big nut and use a timing cover bolt to temporarily lock down the timing belt.
Rotate the crank a full 720° counter clockwise. and verify the crank is on TDC and the cam is UP. If off, readjust belt.

Verify crank is at TDC, line up front balance shaft with the shaft groove and block triangle. The rear will require the dot on the sprocket to line up with the groove on the oil pump. Not the notch on the pulley with the dot on the bearing plate. Although they are close to each other, this will cause an imbalance of the shaft and some vibration.

Only use the tension of the springs provided for the timing belts to tension the belts, do not force tension the belts. You only need to remove the slack from teh belts, they will not stretch like V or multi-groove accessory drive belts.

 

F-family engines still have that service plug on the back of the block just past the trailing balance shaft sprocket, right? Take that out (12mm head) and drop a M6x1.0 x100 bolt down the bore and play tune-in-Tokyo with the sprocket until the bolt goes all the way in. That puts that shaft at TDC.

 

Any photos of this? I'm way lost now

 

 

They do, but I have found it to be a PITA/Messy to take the plug out and half the time the balance shaft would still rotate a bit.
I'll have the car up level on jack stands, rotate the rear balance shaft to its timing mark, hold it for a moment and it stays put on a cold engine. On a hot engine it will try to rotate a bit, so I've just started to do the belt change on a cold engine and the balance shaft is happy to comply. Usually have the BB on the front BS and CS sprockets then simply rotate the rear BS to its timing marks and slip it on as it does not have a flange on the face like the other two. Since doing this it has made taking the BB on and off a cinch.

 

Perhaps, but I seem to have decent luck with keeping the rear shaft aligned properly. That, and I cannot find any marks on the block to line-up the grooves on the trailing sprocket up to. Plus, the movement of the rear sprocket when the bolt is put down the access port is less than one whole tooth. So if one keeps the key on the nose of the crank at TDC, then the trailing sprocket falls into place.

 

Ok I am very new to this can anyone give me a diagram of the sprokets I have one sporoket that moves every time I put the belt on I can't get it to TDC

 

If you're doing this in the driveway, get a cheap rug you don't mind getting dirty, lay it next to the car, and get comfy. It will take a few tries the first time, it did for me. I use the crank sprocket as reference, engaging teeth with that belt first. Next I loop it over the leading shaft sprocket as that one moves freely, and is the other sprocket with a flange on he outside face. At that point, I line-up the tailing side of the belt coming off the crank sprocket and slide the belt over the trailing shaft sprocket, easing the belt under the tensioner pulley.

 

Ok cool I'll give it a shot