header question for hopefully more power.. need knowledgeable advice/dyno
So my current setup made 231 whp which is actually a fantastic number on pump gas 92 octane.. but it showed a great spike around 8600 and dropped power immediately after. My tuner has told me to invest in a bigger exhaust if i want to optimise what i have, since im only running the 2.25 standeard skunk2 megapower exhaust. Seems i have a plenty good intake setup and not enough exhaust flow to get it out. I plan on going with the 3" megapower rr, but i have 2 headers here.. wondering which one would be best for the setup..
Current setup is as follows..
B18c1 block
82x87.2
Cp 12.5:1 pistons
Eagle h beam rods
Exedy 8lb flywheel and 3 puck clutch
Balanced rotating assembly
P72 head
-Port and polish
-Type r valves
-Skunk2 pro2 cams (degreed)
-Aem trutime cam gears
-Skunk2 pro series valve springs and retainers
-skunk2 ultra street intake manifold (cleaned casting imperfections and polished inside)
-skunk2 pro series 74mm throttlebody
-thermal tb and i.m. gasket
-rdx 410cc injectors
-HYTECH replica header (small tube)
-skunk2 megapower exhaust (2.25")
I have the hytech replica on it currently, but i had purchased a sedan with a b16 swap for my wife which has what appears to be an smsp style replica. I noticed the runners are a bit larger, but i know bigger isnt always better. Also noticed the smsp has 1,2 paired at the y and 3,4 where the hytech pairs 1,3 and 4,2. So anyone have any advice on these for which is better for my setup? Is there a dyno evidenced better header to invest in for this setup? Can provide pictures if anyone needs. Thanks in advance.
Current setup is as follows..
B18c1 block
82x87.2
Cp 12.5:1 pistons
Eagle h beam rods
Exedy 8lb flywheel and 3 puck clutch
Balanced rotating assembly
P72 head
-Port and polish
-Type r valves
-Skunk2 pro2 cams (degreed)
-Aem trutime cam gears
-Skunk2 pro series valve springs and retainers
-skunk2 ultra street intake manifold (cleaned casting imperfections and polished inside)
-skunk2 pro series 74mm throttlebody
-thermal tb and i.m. gasket
-rdx 410cc injectors
-HYTECH replica header (small tube)
-skunk2 megapower exhaust (2.25")
I have the hytech replica on it currently, but i had purchased a sedan with a b16 swap for my wife which has what appears to be an smsp style replica. I noticed the runners are a bit larger, but i know bigger isnt always better. Also noticed the smsp has 1,2 paired at the y and 3,4 where the hytech pairs 1,3 and 4,2. So anyone have any advice on these for which is better for my setup? Is there a dyno evidenced better header to invest in for this setup? Can provide pictures if anyone needs. Thanks in advance.



Best run was 231.6, however it was made with more intake length, which wasnt how it has been ran on the street so this was the sheet i kept to be true to numbers. First pic is hytech header second is smsp on the b16
I use the 3" RR exhaust which I like because of fitment but its stupid loud. I also use the plm Toda which seems to do ok on anywhere from 1.6 to 2.0. I'm curious on different header choices as well. My guess is if you switched to a 3" exhaust and e85, you'd see 250+ without messing with the header.
I probably could do so much better on a better fuel, but e85 isnt regularly available in my area so sadly im stuck to 92 octane or one pump in town has 93. I think with a bigger exhaust and a hair more timing 250 isnt out of reach. But timing is really of the essence on pump gas lol. 231 is a phenomonal number out of a 1.8 but i still feel 250 is in reach. Thought maybe a header change with the bigger exhaust would be a good start.
Nice numbers especially for a 1.8 liter!
Is this the dyno that supposedly reads 10% low?
Might just have to try them out individually and see which one your engine responds better to.
Is this the dyno that supposedly reads 10% low?
Might just have to try them out individually and see which one your engine responds better to.
The hytech will give you the best peak from what I've read up on them.
Those are VERY good numbers off rich's dyno. Unless he got it re-calibrated I'm surprised to see over 220 w/ a 1.8 on his dyno. Solid build.
Those are VERY good numbers off rich's dyno. Unless he got it re-calibrated I'm surprised to see over 220 w/ a 1.8 on his dyno. Solid build.
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Thanks everyone haha yea thats the dyno that supposedly reads 10% low. Rich was impressed out of a 1.8. But i know i can squeeze more out of her and maintain my pump gas. Does anyone have any knowledge on the smsp header? It appears to be a bigger header by around a quarter inch at the runners than my hytech. I wish i could just throw it on and toss back at the dyno, but the drive is 3 hours for me. The only thing that confuses me with the smsp is that it pairs 1-2 and 3-4 before the collector. Youd think pairing 1-3 and 4-2 to correspond with firing order and maintain the 180° separation?
It won't be worth the time switching between two. Any real gains will be from a custom header designed for your setup. Unless you have time and money to just throw at your setup for a marginal gain it really isn't going to be worth it.
93 eg sleeper are you referring to the hytech big tube or the hytech small tube? Because the hytech i have is the small tube. The smsp has about a quarter inch bigger runners. Just seems strange to pair 1-2 and 3-4. At this point any gains i can achieve will get me closer to inchworming my way to 240+
Also i noticed at the track that 4th gear falls hard on its face. Its a jdm full type r 4.7fd trans. Is there any shorter of a 4th gear i can invest in? It falls out of peak power in 4th and you can physically feel the power gain when it climbs back up. I know the biggest issue needed is a larger exhaust, but is this small tube header substantial for a high output 1.8 when the 3" exhaust goes on?
You can put a B16 4th gear in. It is a good bit shorter than the 98-01 ITR 4th gear.
Just some FYI on ratio's
*98-01 JDM ITR 4th & 5th = 94-01 GSR 4th & 5th
*95-97 JDM/All USDM ITR 1st-5th = 94-01 B16 1st-5th
Just some FYI on ratio's
*98-01 JDM ITR 4th & 5th = 94-01 GSR 4th & 5th
*95-97 JDM/All USDM ITR 1st-5th = 94-01 B16 1st-5th
I got 240/151 93 oct. on a dynapack dyno running a skunk2 alpha header. I wanted the midrange power since I drive it on the street.
93 eg sleeper are you referring to the hytech big tube or the hytech small tube? Because the hytech i have is the small tube. The smsp has about a quarter inch bigger runners. Just seems strange to pair 1-2 and 3-4. At this point any gains i can achieve will get me closer to inchworming my way to 240+
Also i noticed at the track that 4th gear falls hard on its face. Its a jdm full type r 4.7fd trans. Is there any shorter of a 4th gear i can invest in? It falls out of peak power in 4th and you can physically feel the power gain when it climbs back up. I know the biggest issue needed is a larger exhaust, but is this small tube header substantial for a high output 1.8 when the 3" exhaust goes on?
It's interesting you made less torque than I did but better peak. Must mean I have more power to go find
Could be the port job you have. The powerband on my cams seems much broader and I'm running a larger intake manifold a header on stock ports.
I assumed you were talking about a hytech BIG tube header. The SMSP will most likely carry power better since it has larger runners. If it was the hytech big tube, I would say leave it alone. The SMSP tube pairing has proven itself to work out....LOTS of guys ran them and made great numbers.
Lol no that dyno sheet was with the hytech narrowtube and the 2.25 megapower exhaust. I really wish i was closer to the seattle area, so I could toss it on and bingo theres my answer lol. At the track, I had ran my first run with exhaust just to see how it did, (creamed a brand new purple challenger
) and the following run, took the exhaust off, did nothing else and gained 7mph trap speed the very next pass, and noticeable top end difference. So this, combined with the dyno sheet showing a spike in power around 8400, then flat lining proves that its definitely choking with the exhaust setup. I just thought maybe I could get more out of it by swapping the header, so I came here for advice. I REALLY want to see at least 240 out of her when I go back to Rich.
At the end of the day theyre just numbers it all comes down to the track times, AFR's, and how the powerband looks, but when you get great numbers like this its really hard not to try inching just a liiiiiiiiittle more haha
I find it surprising this is the case. You should be shifting right back into the meat of power w/ that trans. What size tires do you have? My R trans on my B20 kills in 4th. Maybe try revving it 2-300 rpm higher and see how that feels.
I find this surprising as well, Im running 195/50/15 street tires and 22x13x9 slicks. Didnt test fit the slicks before we loaded up the car the night before, and found they were rubbing on the caliper bracket, so i never got to run with them. Got the spacers ready for the next set of passes though. I could try revving it higher in third, since i have the capability with hondata, but its already showing a flatline followed by a drop in power around 9200, so i think taking it higher might actually do more harm than good? 4th is my game killer.. 1-3 RIPS, then 4th physically feels flat for the first 5-600 rpm. I think it falls to between 7000 to 7500 after shifting at 9300, does that sound about right similar to yours? BTW I did some reading on your thread. Nice build. All my track time was on the same day you were there (forum fest). It was SO DAMN HOT
It's interesting you made less torque than I did but better peak. Must mean I have more power to go find
Could be the port job you have. The powerband on my cams seems much broader and I'm running a larger intake manifold a header on stock ports.
Lol no that dyno sheet was with the hytech narrowtube and the 2.25 megapower exhaust. I really wish i was closer to the seattle area, so I could toss it on and bingo theres my answer lol. At the track, I had ran my first run with exhaust just to see how it did, (creamed a brand new purple challenger
) and the following run, took the exhaust off, did nothing else and gained 7mph trap speed the very next pass, and noticeable top end difference. So this, combined with the dyno sheet showing a spike in power around 8400, then flat lining proves that its definitely choking with the exhaust setup. I just thought maybe I could get more out of it by swapping the header, so I came here for advice. I REALLY want to see at least 240 out of her when I go back to Rich.At the end of the day theyre just numbers it all comes down to the track times, AFR's, and how the powerband looks, but when you get great numbers like this its really hard not to try inching just a liiiiiiiiittle more haha
I find it surprising this is the case. You should be shifting right back into the meat of power w/ that trans. What size tires do you have? My R trans on my B20 kills in 4th. Maybe try revving it 2-300 rpm higher and see how that feels.
I find this surprising as well, Im running 195/50/15 street tires and 22x13x9 slicks. Didnt test fit the slicks before we loaded up the car the night before, and found they were rubbing on the caliper bracket, so i never got to run with them. Got the spacers ready for the next set of passes though. I could try revving it higher in third, since i have the capability with hondata, but its already showing a flatline followed by a drop in power around 9200, so i think taking it higher might actually do more harm than good? 4th is my game killer.. 1-3 RIPS, then 4th physically feels flat for the first 5-600 rpm. I think it falls to between 7000 to 7500 after shifting at 9300, does that sound about right similar to yours? BTW I did some reading on your thread. Nice build. All my track time was on the same day you were there (forum fest). It was SO DAMN HOT
It's interesting you made less torque than I did but better peak. Must mean I have more power to go find
Could be the port job you have. The powerband on my cams seems much broader and I'm running a larger intake manifold a header on stock ports.
Ran a 13.81 best pass at 106.2mph on street tires with a 2.31 60' time.
This is in an EM1 too, so its got a lot of room to grow if i toss it in my EG next year.
Track was SO hot that day as EG SLEEPER will verify. Ambient temps in the high 90s and track temps were hovering around 120 degrees. Im sure its capable of 12s on my 22" slicks with better temperatures.
This is in an EM1 too, so its got a lot of room to grow if i toss it in my EG next year.
Track was SO hot that day as EG SLEEPER will verify. Ambient temps in the high 90s and track temps were hovering around 120 degrees. Im sure its capable of 12s on my 22" slicks with better temperatures.
Thanks! Ill look into this a bit more. I feel like 4th gear drops too far in the rpm range and Im falling out of peak power, because I can physically feel it gain power after about 7800 to 8k. drops to 7000 or 7500 ish from shifting at 9300 in third.
I forgot you have a 1.8. Good call on the TQ numbers being lower LOL
I'm retuning my car on e85 and will be degreeing the cams in as well to hopefully pull some power out of it. It's just not running as well as it should. My traps are 101 (wtf right) so i know something is wrong. Sounds like you're on your way to success just takes time to get all the details worked out.
I'm retuning my car on e85 and will be degreeing the cams in as well to hopefully pull some power out of it. It's just not running as well as it should. My traps are 101 (wtf right) so i know something is wrong. Sounds like you're on your way to success just takes time to get all the details worked out.
Pro2 cams with 2 & Quarter Exh! I would keep header and install 3" header back, what size collector you running? Pro2's with that Cr. n intake setup is deff'ly trying to breath. You got the Bad*ss Manifold and 74mm TB I'm assuming a good P&P but its narrowing down to a 2.25" Exhaust. The Pro 2's overlap and smaller Header primaries will encourage Velocity (Dont kno how big you went on the P&P) and the 3" will allow more air to get out plain n simple. Of course troubleshooting n time takes money but atleast you have two different headers with two different grouping with two different primary sizings. Sounds like a good start. I would base my Guess on header choice off the bat with how big you went on P&P and if you were able to degree the cams into spec or you had only certain gear settings because of either V2V or P2V. If this were the case I still would of degreed them in accroding to mfg during Spec'ing and found out which way they had to move to become safe. So then you could kno what it was gonna react like ie. you needed to advance intake so it would run safely for clearancing so your power is gonna move to the right, let me try this header first with a 3" exh. n test. If you do enough research n find alot of similar builds you can start finding consistency on a goal. @ some point tho especially with the 92 Oct. your gonna want to come to the realization that thats all you should push it to. You have a VERY linear power curve so how much it helps I'm not sure. Making that power with the exh. you have tho! dam I would just swap the headers n go to your Track. Do a bunch of runs on one header. Swap and do a bunch of runs. Find the consistency and base your decision on which header to possibly upgrade with 3" header back then hopefully your re-tune will allow for greatest outcome.
Pro2 cams with 2 & Quarter Exh! I would keep header and install 3" header back, what size collector you running? Pro2's with that Cr. n intake setup is deff'ly trying to breath. You got the Bad*ss Manifold and 74mm TB I'm assuming a good P&P but its narrowing down to a 2.25" Exhaust. The Pro 2's overlap and smaller Header primaries will encourage Velocity (Dont kno how big you went on the P&P) and the 3" will allow more air to get out plain n simple. Of course troubleshooting n time takes money but atleast you have two different headers with two different grouping with two different primary sizings. Sounds like a good start. I would base my Guess on header choice off the bat with how big you went on P&P and if you were able to degree the cams into spec or you had only certain gear settings because of either V2V or P2V. If this were the case I still would of degreed them in accroding to mfg during Spec'ing and found out which way they had to move to become safe. So then you could kno what it was gonna react like ie. you needed to advance intake so it would run safely for clearancing so your power is gonna move to the right, let me try this header first with a 3" exh. n test. If you do enough research n find alot of similar builds you can start finding consistency on a goal. @ some point tho especially with the 92 Oct. your gonna want to come to the realization that thats all you should push it to. You have a VERY linear power curve so how much it helps I'm not sure. Making that power with the exh. you have tho! dam I would just swap the headers n go to your Track. Do a bunch of runs on one header. Swap and do a bunch of runs. Find the consistency and base your decision on which header to possibly upgrade with 3" header back then hopefully your re-tune will allow for greatest outcome.
Been doing a lot of reading and confirmed i do indeed have the small tube hytech header. When i built the motor i did degree the cams using the cam card and a jegs racing degreewheel set with the dial indicators. I have them degreed down to 1/4 of degree and made damn sure they are set at perfect peak lift. (This was a bitch with the peak duration of the pro2s)
The port and polish was done large with lots of taper work and a mirror finish exhaust side. I also polished the inside of the intake manifold (took FOREVER) but all of the work i put into this motor has been thuroughly researched and was designed fora powerband of 6k to 10k rpm. With the bigger exhaust my tuner believes it will make the power to 10. The only question at that point is will we be able to give it enough timing to create the power due to 93 octane. Ill cross that bridge when the time comes since we dont have e85 regularly available in my area. Crazy thing is we never adjusted any cam timing on the dyno and i have a little room for movement if itllmake more power. This was a very conservative tune, and i am beyond pleased with it. Its tuned a little rich still and very conservative timing. She has a lot of room to grow.
My research has led me to decide to invest in a hytech big tube header and i will be ordering the megapower rr exhaust at the same time which is the 3". She is SO much fun to drive, my buddys ls turbo (290whp) cant keep up until 100+
Excited to see results with a better breathing exhaust just hoping i dont lose my midrange. I will keep everyone posted! Pretty sure im going to toss it in my EG next year and shave a few hundred lbs for track season.
Also going to get in touch with asp racing which is conveniently two doors down from richtuned.. see if we can get together about my build and will have them make a custom hood exit header for track time. I will leave them to be the mastermind on that one and probably wont be til tax season lol
I wouldnt worry about your mid-range with larger Exh. it was more of a debate 10 yrs ago, but now the common consensus is bigger is better as long as its after the collector. A header Tuned for the engine n a 3" header back Exh. will make power. I'm sure S2 would confirm the Pro 2's making power to 10k but just like any High performance NA you need everything to pull the figures. 92/93 Oct., a shelf replica header, and 2.25" Exh. is just a stack up of disadvantages starting to hinder that Goal. I cant believe S2 even sells a 2.25" Exh.
Nice I also Kept degreeing till I found mfg spec's. +2 3/4 IN // +3 1/4 EX My engine builder said just round it up! Lol.
Well If you P&P for powa at 6k-10k and cam tune for those higher rpm's you will see mid-range losses. So if your worried about mid-range losses from a 3" your already in to deep. Gotta figure out what you want? You'll need that 3" to keep carrying power, your practically already there! 6-10k power is gonna need some cam tuning with your Oct. limitation, I'm sure it would help you reach your goal of carrying powa to 10 but Idle is gonna suffer more and mid range. I'm just starting to dive into all of this tuning stuff I knew timing was tuned as it spun faster but I kno as you increase overlap for carrying power higher ie. moving power to the right your also decreasing Dynamic Cr. so I would think it would help prevent knock for timing in that higher rpm @ the same time. I'm not a Subject matter expert tho. so take my info with a grain of salt. Talk to your tuner. I pick my tuners n short block engine builders brain like every day. My tuner is OldSkool Dude tho. So I trust him when he say upgrade this, dont do that. Lol
Nice I also Kept degreeing till I found mfg spec's. +2 3/4 IN // +3 1/4 EX My engine builder said just round it up! Lol.
Well If you P&P for powa at 6k-10k and cam tune for those higher rpm's you will see mid-range losses. So if your worried about mid-range losses from a 3" your already in to deep. Gotta figure out what you want? You'll need that 3" to keep carrying power, your practically already there! 6-10k power is gonna need some cam tuning with your Oct. limitation, I'm sure it would help you reach your goal of carrying powa to 10 but Idle is gonna suffer more and mid range. I'm just starting to dive into all of this tuning stuff I knew timing was tuned as it spun faster but I kno as you increase overlap for carrying power higher ie. moving power to the right your also decreasing Dynamic Cr. so I would think it would help prevent knock for timing in that higher rpm @ the same time. I'm not a Subject matter expert tho. so take my info with a grain of salt. Talk to your tuner. I pick my tuners n short block engine builders brain like every day. My tuner is OldSkool Dude tho. So I trust him when he say upgrade this, dont do that. Lol
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