Car- 1995 Honda Accord Ex 2.2 wagon

Resent history, since I got the car the idle was a little rough, a/c semi cool and in the winter the heater took for ever to warm up after 20+minutes of driving. Noticed an overheating issue when stopped in traffic, so I turned the heater on full brought temp down, drove home same day at night and the temp needle was pegged on high, turned car off waited for temp to go down started up and drove a mile temp pegged again, heater hose busted....

Fixes so far
New thermostat (old one ceased closed)
Flushed coolant with bottled water
Refilled with new coolant bleed system with breather on thermostat housing while heater was on hot
Took out the heater control valve that the heater hose connected to and realized it was blocked by some sort of plastic preventing it to open or close properly cleaned out and reinstalled....Before the temp **** inside the car was extremely hard to move to full cold "left" position, after its now like it should be but the A/C no longer works....Thinking about just replacing the heater control valve, any input would be great.

Drove the car after 10 min parked warm up, not overheating to my knowledge yet.

That is the history now my concern is when I made a close circuit on the temp sensor on top of the thermostat housing while key was at on position but motor was still off.. the driver side fan kicked on, from what I have been reading is that the diver side fan is for the A/C compressor and the Passenger side is for the radiator...correct me if I'm wrong.

I need to make sure what fan is for what and to see if any of my 4 coolant sensors is not working properly to turn the fans on.

 

The fan close to the thermostat is the rad fan.

 

do you know why when I hot wire the circuit closed for the temp sensor wire the driver side fan comes on?

 

Isn't that the fan close to the thermostat?

 

The A/C condenser fan is on the driver side and the radiator fan is on the passenger side.

With the ignition to ON or START, if the coolant temperature is above 199 degrees F at engine coolant temperature switch A (located on the thermostat housing – connected to the lower radiator hose), then the switch will close, which should turn on both cooling fans (radiator fan and A/C condenser fan).

With the car running, if the A/C is turned on, both cooling fans should run, regardless of the coolant temperature at the Switch A.

When you shut off the car and the coolant temperature is above 223 degrees F at the engine coolant temperature switch B (located on the housing connected to the upper radiator hose ), the radiator fan will run until the temperature drops at Switch B (which opens the switch) or up to ~ 15 minutes.

Both Switch A and B are normally open type of switches, and close when the coolant temperature is above the respective temperatures.

If you were to disconnect the 2P connector to the coolant temperature Switch A, and jump the connector with a piece of wire or small paper clip, then turn ignition to ON (II); both fans should run.

 

thank you tech8

The car is up to temp and I have turned on the ac, driver side is the only one activating, when I jump the wire for the coolant temperature Switch A (before key is in) then turning key to on (engine off) only the driver side will kick on.

now earlier my battery died and I jumped the car when it started the passenger fan did kick on then off and never came back on, even after a 20 min drive. So I'm thinking about connecting the fan directly up to the car battery to see if it kicks on.