Looking for a good name brand tubro kit to do anywhere from 6-8 psi & that is ac & PS compatible , anything around 3-4k is fine ?

 

Try the forced induction forum. But you better read the whole FAQ before asking anything, or have your flame suit on.
Most kits are half-assed garbage anyway. Greddy makes a decent kit to start with, but you need blow off valve, intercooler and a chipped and !DYNO TUNED! ECU to go with it. The piggyback EManage is useless, for technical reasons I won't go into here.

 

psi means nothing... just get a cast log manifold and a little turbo 300hp capable some of the stock Nissan SR ones would do. the rest is easy to find just get a real tune not some "base-map" and call it a tune.

 

Wym psi don't mean anything ? Sorry guys I don't know much about turbo . I just want a kit to do 7psi & that's everything

 

Forced Induction FAQ - Read Me!

Set goals in terms of power (whp = wheel horsepower) and build your setup accordingly.

In simple terms a turbo is an air pump - it moves air, measured in CFM or Lb/min, at varying pressure levels. Pressure (PSI) is essentially a measure of resistance through the system. You can think about it as this - if you ran a turbo into open air, it would make 0 pressure even though its moving a massive amount of volume...only when this volume is confined is there any measurable pressure in the system. This said, you could have Turbo A on an engine at 10 psi and make 200whp - then, by making the system more efficient (less resistance to flow - ie bigger cams), you could see the same power creation at 6psi, even while the gross volume flow of the turbo remained constant. The turbo shifted in its compressor map

PSI is also irrelevant because there are different sizes of turbochargers. A GT28rs and a GT4202 are vastly different and serve different purposes. Both can run 6psi; however, power output will change drastically between the two.

Another analogy - its like saying mph = force. If a Geo Metro is going 15mph vs a Mack Truck going 15mph, is the force of impact the same? No, because you're completely disregarding size and only focusing on one metric.

...i hope this rambling makes things clearer for you. I understand if it does not

 

Well all I know is that I want about 230-250HP with the ram horn manifold & a nice bov

 

These guys are honestly being too nice to you. Read the faqs and study this **** for at least a few hours before you clutter an over cluttered forum with quite frankly dumb questions. I did when I first came here.

 

a few hours lol that's being too nice. I used to read hours a day for weeks on end crunching numbers and such. after thag
ia lot is learned by doing and trial and error.

 

P/s and a/c limit your options on a ram horn manifold.

I'd be whiling to sell you my Edelbrock B series manifold / T25 from SR20 / Edelbrock downpipe elbow / Greddy Type S (purple top manifold) / Slim intercooler / 550cc injectors / If you need S300 with BBG I also have that ready to go. This was my last setup on my B20B and it made 225whp/215wtq. Was a blast to drive in my DA integra. This will keep a/c and p/s. Easily could upgrade to a T28 with little to no modification other than retune. I also ran water and oil lines to the turbo so it wasn't abused at all. If you are interested we can talk a price. My downpipe and intercooler pipe were setup for a 90-91 integra so would not work.

Some will say that the turbo is too small but it has great power all over the place. Not going to get huge power but at 5.5psi I made the power mentioned above and then I turned the boost up to 10psi and adjusted my tune a little. Didn't go back to the dyno just street tuned for 10. Pulled really nice at 3k rpm. My redline was only 6800 on my B20B. Just conservative.

 

Oh geez...radiator took a whipping. That looks nice though.

 

It rubbed a little when I pulled the head and the turbo at once with my hoist but never hit once installed. T28 might need a little more room. If I went to external wastegate and clocked the turbo would not be a problem. Didn't have to stay fullsize radiator either but I liked it.

 

Might be able to get away with it by pulling the radiator closer to the support. Just modify the top brackets and should be clear by a few mm or maybe 1/4. That would be more than enough clearance.

 

its been said before, but psi is irrelevant as it depends on the size of the turbo, piping etc etc etc. Making 7psi in a McDs straw is completely different than making 7psi in a 3" pipe.

 

Yea man im kinda clueless on Turbo , i tried to read the FAQ's but dont know where to start , but im just trying to make 280hp , decided to get rid of my a/c & p/s , since im getting a new car

 

Start from the top and work your way down. If you don't know what a word means google it. Even if we tell you a setup you still wont know what is going on. Patience is key my friend.

 

Yea man all I know now is I'm getting rid of p/s & a/c , I just don't know what setup to do while having a good daily driver guess ima have to do my research

 

If you don't understand what you're doing and why you're doing it, prepare to have problems later. Turbocharging an NA car is a learning experience and some of this you'll have to learn by doing, but the more you know going in, the less painful ($$) the experience will be. Once you dive down the turbo rabbit hole, you need to be much more self-sufficient and knowledgeable because most repair shops aren't going to know a thing about it.

 

Thanks guys will.do my research you guys are awesome

 

Exactly this .. Hours and hours and hours..

Dont expect it on a plate. You need to put the leg work in

 

If you don't understand the witchcraft, then you will be cursed to spend all your money to get it working. And then it wont.

 

Have you checked out the go-autoworks kits?