I just swapped a b16a2 into a 96 hatch, from a 93 coupe, when i first got the swap done it was converted to obd1 and I purchased a 1.7 gsr integra computer.
Now I am still trying to run it as obd1 but im having issues, it runs and moves but it has a very low idle and it has no power when i try to drive it.

Possible issues are, the knock sensor is not hooked up, because the engine that came out didnt have one and I havent run a wire (1??) to the ecu
I may have had the map and tps sensors mixed up at first, not sure if that might have fried both or one of them??

I tried hooking up a scanner to read the codes but its not communicating with the ecu because of the obd1 and obd2 plug

Please any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated, this is my first time taking on this kinda of task, thanks for reading

 

Switch the plugs and check. Check grounds too. It is definitely not the knock sensor but you should hook it up ASAP so you can see if the CEL is still on....since you aren't able to scan it.

Research into a service connector on your car. It may allow you to read flashes on the CEL to find codes.

Does you jumper hanress have a knock sensor already pigtailed off it?

Ffsquad has write ups on the knock wiring too.

 

If the jumper harness does have the knock sensor wire I will still have to run a wire through the firewall because the stock harness never came with one, i have seen knock sensor write ups on ffsquad and that will be the next thing I do but i didnt think it was the main issure
My mechanic says he has other honda adaptors for his snap on scanner so im going to try that tomorrow
As for the map and tps I switched them and looked up the wiring diagram and im 99%sure thet are right now just not sure if I already did damage to the sensors from having them mixed up.

 

Running the wire is an easiest part of the knock wiring. If that's all you need to do...15 minute job. Reset ECU and see what happens.

 

Check for the service plug in between glove box and kick panel. I think yours is blue. It'll be connected to nothing. Use a paper clip to connect the two sides of the plug together. Key to on position and see if the CEL flashes any codes. Long flashes are increments of 10's and short flashes are 1's.

Reset ECU if your sure the MAP TPS plugs are good.

 

I hooked up the knock sensor and no difference

I checked the codes and its giving 14 20 and 36

The b16 uses a 2 wire iacv but the harness has a 3, from what ive read you disregard the orange wire, i tried switch the other 2 wires but it made it worst

Im so frustrated, this is such a common swap, I dont undestand why im have these issues

I unplug diffent sensors why the car is running but they dont seem to do anything, almost like the ecu isnt even doing anything, i checked the ecu fuse under the hood and its fine

So lost.....

 

What harness are you using? A EK EX harness should be perfect. Maybe extend a line or two to fit the Bseries but it should be plug and play (outside of the knock sensor).

 

as said what engine loom did you use also what distributor did you use, was it the one from the eg?

 

The ek harness

The distributor is the original from the b16a2, when it was in the eg the conversation plugs were added

Im wondering if maybe my p28 got fried somehow but i cant think of how that would happen

Also i used the injectors from the y7 and some say that may be 180cc not 240 like the b16 but i would think the ecu would make up for that

 

Its a cx .... I think thats the same as a dx?

 

Update

When i rewired the iacv i forgot to repin the harness at the ecu so not it is idling pretty well but it still bogs when i try to drive it

 

The ECU has no idea you changed the injector size... nor can it compensate for this issue. Find a set of EX or Si OBD-2 fuel injectors and put them in and see what happens.

The codes that you have described suggest you have some serious wiring issues. Also, double check your codes... a 36 is an automatic transmission related code and no B17A ECU had this coding... and the P28 you mentioned later would have had this same code in the previous car if an "auto" ECU was used... even if it was chipped. P28 ECU's do not have knock sensor circuits, so running that wire would be fruitless.

 

Shouldnt the O2 read that the car is running lean and inturn hold the injector open longer?

The code 20 is for ELD, could that be because I have change the alterator plug from 4 wires to 3?