My eg gsr turbo make around 500hp. Once in a while my car will have break up in the high rpm. Swapping distributor , coil and ignitor alway does the trick but I'm tired of swapping things around when that times come. What is a good affordable aftermarket external coil setup out there that will do the job? Not looking to do coil on plugs.

 

I have been researching this alot for an upcoming build, this is what i have found

PS92 coil but you will need an ignition box to run it...

this would be my suggested parts list:

Ignitor bypass from turbols (optional but recomended) - $70 Sendit Racing
summit racing ignition box or other (MSD, crane cams, mallory) - Starts at $150
crane cams ps92 coil - $70
MSD 8.5 MM spark plug wires (optional but again recommended) - $95
MSD Distributor cap - $45

70+70+150+95+45= $430

Seems kinda pricey for me personally, haven't pulled the trigger on this yet. although I guess is about half the price of a COP conversion
I also got my eye on the B&R fittings COP conversion which is priced at $850 hard choice for me between the two

its all been covered by the way got all this info off old threads like: https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...ition-3026329/

 

Aemv2
Epm
K coils

3-400 hp per cylinder

 

If it works for a while then may be the igniter or coil gets burned by excess duty cycle caused by improper ecu programming.

Is this something you have look into? What tuning platform are you using?

 

Plug gap?

 

can you be more specific as far as "aem v2" ? are you speaking of standalone computer? the aem cop conversion I have seen requires twin fire driver if you want to run more then 20 lbs of boost

 

I'm using that exact setup minus the MSD stuff on my turbo Accord. Some NGK blues and an oem cap worked fine for me. It's a great setup. Worth the money. I went from a .018 gap @ 25psi to .035ish and got my idle quality back as well. Well worth it.

 

Yes aem v2 ems, k series coils and aem epm. Thats it

Epm replaces the distributor. Wire up the coils and epm and done. Ign system ready for 300-400 hp per cylinder.

The reason aem is frowned upon here is because "tuners" can tune a s300 faster than an aem ems

"Time is money" is what it comes down to

Factor in a new s300, bbg, cop conversion, traction control and you might as well get the aem. Its a way better platform.

My setup

 

Tune on s300. Went from .0025 to .0020. New wires , cap rotor, Iridium 8's, accel oem style coil. Gaped down and still no fix

 

What about the ICM/Ignitor? Did that get replaced with OEM, or nah?

 

if he's running an oem replacement coil it's almost guaranteed that he's running an OEM ignitor

Really the Send It Racing ICM delete, PS92 coil, and a decent ignition box is the way to go if you don't want to pony up to Coil On Plug or Coil Near Plug.

I do have a very low miles OEM ignitor out of an OBD2 B series dizzy if you want to see if the ignitor is the issue

 

The coil on plug isn't much more cost wise but having used that and used the summit box and crane ps92. The single coil system had way more spark energy. K coils work but they aren't the end all be all Of ignition systems. It's a clean installed look but weak coils. Yes they'll work but something like m&w pro14 or pro drag 4 with the appropriate coils will far exceed them. And again I've used both. The k coils don't stand up to the single crane coil.

 

Yea personally I don't like K coils. I'm going coil on plug but my standalone can control 5 wire coils directly, no boxes, so there are lots of very powerful 5 wire options including GM LS coils (technically that would be Coil Near Plug (CNP) and yes that is a thing lol), and some audi and bmw coils.

I've really wanted to play around with a plasma generator ignition system on my B build before going COP/CNP. Basically it's a 2 parts system, the plasma generator and a distribution block that sits between the distributor and the spark plugs. There's a single connection for the plasma generator and then there's individual input posts for the supply from the dizzy for each cylinder and individual posts for the current out to the plugs. People using them have seen promising results.

I've also seen a lot of turbo people moving over to Brisk spark plugs, they have various advanced designs and the people running them seem to love them and are showing they perform better than just a generic plug design. They have numerous designs based on the type of application.

I know of one guy using a dry cell HHO generator on his turbo 240sx, I don't remember how much power he gained but there was an increase in torque and reliability, to the point of him seeing over 30mpg. Really it's for increasing efficiency and fuel consumption

 

the last time I replace was the ignitor(used oem) for my misfire issue. It maybe another same issue again. I might have to try that again.

 

Whats your batt voltage looking like on the logs?

 

Logs look good and New battery this year

 

You have a 14v batt? Cool

 

most batteries are over 14v when charged by the alternator... just sayin lol

 

Pretty much all Honda alternator charges at 13.5 volts max...

 

Exactly... Alternator...

Mine pumps out 14.2 most ive seen are at 13-14v

 

13.7-13.9

 

Every alternator I've ever had has put out ~14.4 volts max. The voltage regulator is what regulates it obviously. Most of the OBD1 Honda alternators have interchangeable voltage regulators and they're usually set at 14.6v. Where you get your reading also matters. Neptune datalogs report 14.2-14.4v from my alt at any given time. My turbo timer is farther down the line and only reports 13.8v.

OP, 13.7-13.9 is fine. Get the ICM delete, PS92 coil and the summit box. Wire it up and forget about it.

 

Yea I still have this weird deal with my accord, alternator puts out 14-14.5VDC or so but every light on the car flashes constantly. Not sure if regulator is internal or external on the obd1 f22a1 dizzy.

**** drives me nuts, unhooked the plug from the dizzy for ***** and giggles, gave it a slight throttle blip, and it blew up the headlight bulbs and dome light bulbs lol

 

Yeah, last time I checked it was sitting at 13.527149 volts.

 

You are checking the logs when the break up happens right?