I had baught a 93 4 Dr civic had 5 speed d15b7 I had baught another 93 civic has same block. But had a what was "supposed" to be a y8 vtec head it had a vtec valve cover after buying it I did some research and its a y7 head not y8....which sucks but it also had d16z6 intake.... Since this isn't a vtec head and I wanted one are there any bigger cams I can put in this y7? And would stock crabk/pistons/rods work with a bigger cam in that head seeing its a d16y7 and my block is d15b7 ? I'd like an aggressive idle and aggressive sound with more power. But I'm not finding and aftermarket/bigger cams to put in the head. I'm going to throw the z6 intake on the y7 head and put them on my d15b7 that I am currently completely rebuilding. I also have a short air ram cold air intake and a header. 10.5mm spark plug wires. Brand new ngk plugs deleting power steering and deleting a/c.

 

First off, you're new, so I'm going to go ahead and point you to these two stickies. You can find a whole treasure trove of information in one, and the other will help you keep your threads open, and keep from getting banned. I would highly recommend reading both of them. You are off to a decent start, though.

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...tions-1998336/

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...sting-3002401/

Now that we have that covered, I'm gonna go ahead and stop you right there. "More power" and D15 are not two things that go together. I'm going to guess by your username that you're used to old 5.0's, being able to slap some nice headers on, index the plugs, fiddle with your carb, and gain 40-50 BHP. Unfortunately, it doesn't work like that in the small displacement Honda world.

How do you know it's a Y7 head and not a Y8? Can't find a VTEC solenoid? Have you searched for the head stamp? You'll find it on the exhaust side of the head, just above where the manifold flange bolts to the head. While we're on the subject of the head, D series engines only have one cam. Yes, there are replacement options out there for the Y7, but they're expensive. Too expensive for what you get out of one. Just spitballing numbers here, but $150 for a cam, another $150 for necessary valvetrain upgrades (specifically, springs and retainers), another $400 for a tune, and another $100 for the necessary ECU modification for the tune. That's $800 for like, 15-20 WHP. Quite frankly, **** that ****.

If you want cheap bang for your buck, a 92-00 EX, or 92-95 SI transmission would give you a more noticeable difference than all of that would, and would only cost you $100-$200.

As for the rest of it, I mean, you're gonna do what you're gonna do, but if we're being honest here, a D15 is quite possibly the biggest waste of time for any kind of power production in a Honda. Pencil thin rods (that require moderate to significant machine work to the block, if you want to replace), tiny little ringlands, single oil journals in the cranks, and a head that's like breathing through a straw. At the very least, get a complete D16Z6 swap to start with. You seem like an all motor kind of guy, but if you like forced induction, the Z6 absolutely LOVES a properly sized turbo. Toss a disco potato on a Z6, and you can put 200 to the wheels safely and reliably, and I **** you not, it'll keep up with a 4.6L Mustang in a straight line, and walk circles around one in the turns. If you want to increase your budget just a bit, a B swap is extremely easy, and you can pull a good bit of power out of it, with or without boost. If your budget is...considerably large, and you absolutely do not want forced induction, a K swap is doable, and you can get stupid amounts of NA power out of them.

You have a lot of options. Trying to build your D15 for power really shouldn't be one of them you consider. You'll end up wasting money, and not having anything significant to show for it.

 

If you have money there are bigger cams. Crower, Delta, Web, etc. I don't know off the top of my head which one offers a drop in solution but any reputable company should be capable of doing a regrind to your own spec.

 

Yea I have been researching nonstop since I got it where the vtec sylonoid is supposed to be and looked up diagrams and ran the numbers its a y7 someone slapped a z6 vtec valve cover on it to make it look vtec. And yes I am new to the 4 cylinder world.ive always built v8 muscle cars. But the head where the sylonoid is supposed to mount there is no mount or holes in the block or anything its just the intake and that's it

 

Not only that but it's an auto head and I have a 5 speed.

 

Delta has a drop-in, and I've found (really old) advertisements for $100-$150 for their shelf grinds. Little more agressive than stock, but still, I can think of half a dozen different things I'd rather spend $150 on, before I bought a cam for a Y7.

Yeah, there are a lot of schiesty people in the world. You really won't get any noticeable power out of that motor, though. There really is no replacement for displacement and compression ratio (static, or dynamic).

 

So many ppl have told me to go b series but I'm just trying to get it on the road and driving....I'm usecto v8s so I gotta have something somewhat fast so was trying to make the engine that's in it go fast without doing a complete engine swap because I don't plan on keeping it forever. It's fwd and I hate fwd I love rwd but it will be my daily for some time till I can afford to build another drag car. So I was just trying to build it atleast to were its not going to be slow because I can't drive anything slow I'll just walk if I have to drive something slow lol

 

Out of curiosity how much power (over stock b7 107hp) do u think I'll make with what I have now with no other modifications ? Z6 intake y7 head b7 block (new pistons,rings,bearings,ect) deleted a/c and P/s- cold air short ram intake, 10.5mm spark plug wires and new ngk plug wires and a 4-2-1 header (yes I know 4-1 is better but its also $180 more expensive) I don't have a big budget? Will it ATLEAST be around 130 which is around stock b18s?

 

Highly doubt it. Per the the rules, no bench racing either because no one can tell you exactly what your combo will net except a trip to dyno session.

 

Nope. Considering you have no tune, and your engine is probably old and worn out, realistically you might have 100 BHP, if you're lucky.

...That's 85 WHP.

You're only working with 1.5 liters of displacement. If you're more familiar with CI measurements, that's a whole 91.5 cubic inches. There's just no reasonable way to get any kind of significant power out of that. D series engines do NOT respond to bolt ons. It's just how they are. If you really want it on the road ASAP, start going through the FAQ sticky for DIYs, and start going through Craigslist for the necessary parts. A B swap can be done in a weekend.

Also, a little bit of innocent self-promotion: You can check my build thread for an extensive-as-**** how-to for a B swap.

 

OK thank you. I'll prob just put all this together n drive it as is till I have extra cash to but a b18 then I'll out a b18 in it with si trans. Only reason I'm putting the head n intake on it is cuz I baught the other 93 as a parts car for mine for $200 and they were on it "supposedly" the CPU is chipped and the head was fresh from a machine shop and was shaved for higher compression.

 

Meh, if the ECU is actually chipped, that might save you some money when you get around to a proper swap or boost. The rest of it...**** it. You can get that $200 back just from parting the car out.

 

It's all beat to hell I'm scrapping it I'll make my money back easy. Stripping it down and separating the metals. Keeping motor and trans as spare just in case or might end up selling them not sure yet...might sell them and start building a b18 on the side. Then sell this motor after rebuild and its broke in to buy si trans and some bolt ons for the b18. Or I'll just sell the Honda with this motor and buy me a 93 s13 240 drop the KA and get a sr20 DET and turbo it so many different routes to go Honda was my last route but the cars are so cheap on insurance and gas makes it hard not to buy one

 

if you want to make a little extra power, find and install a vtec head. it will cost less than a reputable aftermarket cam... some guys actually make some power out of d15 setups. google mistabone's d15beast7.

 

No disrespect to the massive amount of work and money that he dumped into that motor, but 145 BHP isn't power.

 

time, maybe. money? no. clearly, you haven't met the guy. dumping money into builds definitely isnt his thing, lol

 

Well, he had a hook up for a big piece of that. Port and polish work from a reputable shop around here will easily cost you $900+. Actually paying that much for a professional P&P on a D series is...well, I have a bridge in New York, and a tower in Paris I'd be willing to sell, if you have the money laying around.

 

The guy owned a machine shop so I'm assuming it didn't cost anything. I didn't pay to have the head shaved and valves redone I just got it like that with the $200 car. No port and polish just shaved and new valves/valve springs. Car blew the head gasket so they shaved it to make sure it didn't warp (it had a head bolt broke off in the block on backside of cylinder #4 and blew on #4 due to broke headbolt) from the looks of things.

 

However I may port the head myself just for the hell of it cuz I have an a air compressor and grinding stones for porting ect

 

probably not a good idea, unless you are very experienced.

 

Respectfully, eghatch, I'm going to disagree. With this motor, if he wants to learn how to do it, it's the perfect head to try on. Worst case scenario, he ruins the head, and gets a replacement for like, $50. It'd be a great head to learn on.

 

Not if its his daily lol

 

/\ that was my mindset. if you can afford downtime, hack away. d series engines are where i starter learning everything i know.

 

I have a whole other b7 motor and 5 speed trans. Another b7 head and b7 intake from the 93 parts car. Just a head bolt is BROKE off in the block so I'll have to drill and tap it. But I'd just port it out to the inner ring ofcthe gasket. Mark it out with a sharpy and just make the holes as big as the gasket is no bigger should be fine. Shouldn't make the walls too thin or abything. Everyone tells me D series is the **** series but ATM I don't wanna put the time in to do a motor swap to a b18 till this cars been on the road a little while and I can use it to get back n forth to work. Maybe when I get my taxes I'll switch to b18 and sell this motor and do a b18 vtec swap but I don't have funds ATM for it

 

If I do mess it up I'll put the b7 head back on it but I don't think I'll mess it up