I was thinking of changing my clutch to a stage 3 clutch and a cheap one.
Had anyone ever try these yet.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stage-3-Racing-Clutch-Kit-Fits-HONDA-CIVIC-D16Z6-JDM-ENGINE-by-eClutchmaster-/131529901605?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Please let me know if it any good Thanks.

 

A 6 puck "race" clutch for a couple hundred? There's NO WAY anything could possibly go wrong.

Why do you need this type of clutch?

 

No. Stop. Don't. That clutch would be such a comical waste of money.

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...sting-3002401/

This is not optional reading. You are failing.

 

Would you really trust a company called eclutchmaster?

 

thanks guy. What you guys recommended. a good clutch. to handle around 300hp

 

Does the sunroof on 95 honda civic 2 door couple suppose to roll all the way back? my just open and stop. Thanks.

 

Horsepower doesn't mean **** to a clutch. They're rated by torque. You also still haven't given us basic, required information.

That said, if you're needing this for a D series, you're in roughly the right direction, you're just looking at the wrong quality of product. Competition Clutch, Clutch Masters, Carbonetic, and Fidanza all make good options.

Innocent self-promotion: I have a Competition Clutch 6 puck hub sprung with Fidanza flywheel I'm trying to sell, that should handle what you want to throw at it, for roughly what you're trying to spend. Check the FS/WTB sticky.

 

buy a lsd motorsports clutch 6 puck will do you good

Ive been running act 6 puck with a bit more power on daily driver for 5 years now very good

 

A factory moonroof (not some cheapass aftermarket hinged affair, mind you) will slide back approximately 65 - 70% of the total opening. Sounds like you have some work ahead of you.

 

What you think is it a relay or motor. Yes it is original factory

 

Comp clutch is all I have ever ran. Never had a problem. Spend the money for a proper brand name, otherwise, you'll end up doing the work twice and paying even more out of pocket.

 

Alright thanks for the Input

 

if the moonroof moves into the "up" position, but does not slide back, but rather stops as though it has reached end of travel, you could very well just need to realign the motor gear in relation to the moonroof cables, it may be set to where the motor hits its stop point just as the roof finishes lifting. you need to get a factory service manual (google for the download) and follow the steps listed to set it back to factory spec.

 

Sound good Thanks for your time

 

I know it is a noob question. But how we go about hooking this up to the engine. D16Z6

 

Honda Crankcase Ventilation System - Honda Tuning Magazine
I used this when put a catch can on my old lsvtec setup, hope it helps you too.

 

I had one that would only tilt up and wouldn't slide back. There is a bar coming from the glass that broke from the bracket it is supposed to sit in. I zip tied it and boom! Worked. Lol

 

I'm not a big fan of that article. It blocks off the breather from the crank case so the blow by has no where to go. In it, it says something about preventing the blow by which is just not possible. At high RPM gases blow by the rings period. Without the crank case port, the pressure has to flow up the oil return passages to exit the engine.

My preference is to add a quality oil catch can after the breather box, before it routes back into the intake manifold on the D series engines.

The choice is whether you hook up the catch can before or after the PCV valve. Do which ever is easier for where ever you are mounting the catch can.

 

I merged all your threads into one thread concerning your car. Ask your questions in this thread.

Also read the rules sticky up top so you are aware of the policies and procedures.

Thank you.