hi im new when building motors.




I got my first build for a boosted d16z6 vitarra that failed before this one. I built it and it ran very good for like about 3k miles. ive babied it through. the 3k miles. it had like 1 quart low and I pounded the motor the next day up a stupid hill it had good pressure like 40psi I believe. oil pressure. stock low compression without turbo. when I reached the hill parked and re checked the reve. then






I heard a loud ping and knock behind the intake manifold. I replicate and I couldn't do it again I heard it like after a rev. weeks ago it had check engine light code vtec solenoid.
then at night went home parked died out in first up my driveway. parked. later couldn't start the car. the engine I had a stupid long wire neg switch I made as a kill switch. from the dizzy. I had prob before but now even with it disconnected and reconnected reg it don't. work.
resodered together. still no start.




I got it somehow to start then it seems to work. it idled really rough and wants to die. I put back the stock intake piping box back and replaced the sparkplugs. checked the spark plugs and number 3 and 2 are fouled black. number 1 an 4 where white colored looking very worn compared to the plugs. very weird. did comp test all had like 140psi wtf??? vitara eagle h beams? I didn't do comp test before I started the build.






at idle the engine idled funny and then I heard a knock noise. then replaced tried to assume the iac valve was causing it I had replaced the radiator the day before. used a coolant pump to try manual bleed it so it with the coolant hose disconnected from the iacvalve. then it started.


it knocked reved knocked uncontrollably. wtf.
turn off motor drain oil found glitter.
this had some acl race bearing and idk if what type of vlave guides it had.


someone told me the motor is messed up. needs to replace bearings. 3 and 4th rod couldn't move side to side. endplay others are ok.




removed all head block apart again. head where rechecked it had a lot of carbon build up.
especially on the pistons there where very dark black. wtf.
took it to a machinist the guy said he will check and redo everything.
he checked the notches it had a lot of clearance using a braze rod and it seems to clear every turn of rotations? can this verify that the notches not causing the sound?
he checked told me that the bearings where very tight and out of wack. but im new how could a very tight bearing cause excessive knocking noise? he then showed me his race Toyota motor for built boost he build for this guy. he showed me it had a lot of rod side to side endplay. and mines didn't have rod number 4 or 3.
he told me I saved the motor right away buy turning the motor off. no start could that cause the motor to no start? in the first place>








I had then I build it again new head gasket. arp studs timing belt tensioner, reused the head machinest checked the straightness he said it was okay. head is shimmed and angle grinded seated ok. The machinest did the whole engine bottom end together then I put the whole motor together.












finally I did the LEAK DOWN TESTING>


I did
number 1 @90PSI = 13% leak heard from exhaust valves bottom piston rings


number 2 @90PSI = 15% leak heard from bottom piston rings.


number 3 @90PSI= 12% leak heard from bottom piston rings.


number 4 @ 90PSI = 13% leak heard from slight intake/ slight more at exhaust side.






is this testing good? OR BAD?
I hope it will be good I spent a lot of money on this motor. I don't get paid much but I learnt a lot of building this as a project I had a long time.


please let me know also I am still a little concerened about if it might start up knocking again. im nervous in doing this when starigng it up but this time with a turbo and whole setup ecu/injectors/fuel pump/afrgauges/etc.


I hope this don't knock.

 

That's kinda high for a fresh build. I'd expect 5% or less..

 

Did you baby it again on the new rebuild?

 

when u did the leakdown where was the air escaping from?

 

Has the motor been broken in or is this the leak down before seating the rings?

 

I thought he was referring to the pressure to the Leak down tester?
Or are These compression test numbers?

 

ah u are right, i was posting from my phone and overlooked that part. i generally use 100 psi in the line when i take my percentage readings. going from 90-100 psi may drop his leakdowns to right around 10-12% which since they are consistent i dont see as a huge issue. 140psi isnt horribly low for a vitara motor.

i wonder if it detonated, lifted the head and got some oil or **** in the cylinders.

what are these rod bearing tolerances the motor had? take the bearings out and look for damage on them for signs of damage, and signs of discoloration on the connecting rod

 

ok I have the leakdown at 90psi with my leakdown tester matcogauge. my air compressor for somereason cant go 100psi when using the gauge.
the pistons had a lot of carbon build up though. the motor right now is not in the car yet so I havn't broken the motor in.


the machinest took a look at the bearings and whole motor. he told me that the bearing clearances rods where very tight. and number 1 and 3 rod caps where switched it had some part numbers on it. but im still concerned how would the tight bearings cause this. knocking thing. and the carbon build up no start condition why?