F20b motor into a 97 accord with manual trans
Hey new to the site. I'm wondering if swapping a jdm f20b into my accord would be a smart idea. I'm looking to make a little more power but is not my main goal. My main goal is to have a reliable everyday driver. The car has 250,000 miles, I just put a new clutch in and I'm looking to just ride out the car through college. I'm wondering how easy the swap is compared to a h22a both would be bolted up to f22 trans. I know it will fall out of V-Tec but that is not my concern. I'm wondering which swap is easier and will cost the least but have the biggest pay off. Which motor is more reliable. And the cost of both. I hope this makes sense. Again not looking to make the most power I will only add bolt on's to it. I know with bolt on's the h22 is better but again I'm looking for most reliable. And I'm wondering if I would be capable of doing the swap myself. I'm very mechinally inclined, never went to school but can like working on cars. I've only ever done small easy things like calipers and other simple stuff. Don't be rude and say I'm dumb I'm really at loss with which motor is better I've read lots of forums but still can't make a decision. Read a lot that can prove strong point either way.
Well, you're not going to run it off of the stock ECU so you'll be able to pick your new Vtec engagement. I don't know about your area but base what engine management you use on what the tuners in your area will work with, be it Crome, Hondata, AEM, ect.
What is making you think the F20B is going to be more reliable? The F20B is effectively a destroked H22A. (It's not really, but just roll with it)
There's a reason there's 4,000 threads about swapping in the H22A an relatively few on the F20B.
The H22A drops right into the Accord and bolts up to everything. There's guides everywhere on what needs to be done with wiring, exhaust, etc.
That said, if there's nothing wrong with your F22B1/2 then why are you dropping money into a car you're only going to keep for a few more years? Both F20B and H22A swaps will be at least $4k to be done correctly - do you really want to drop that much money into a car that's 18 years old?
If you're going to do it, set aside $4k, you'll likely want to get a H22A with the transmission as you'll gain acceleration from having it. The Longblock + Tranny + ECU is ~$2k from a company like HMotorsOnline. The F20B is going to be around that same price as well.
Then you'll want to do maintenance items (injectors, plugs, wires, clutch, flywheel, timing belt, water pump, etc) as well as fix any broken things (sensors, potentially other stuff).
Then after that, you either need to convert your car to OBDI from OBDIIa or convert the motor to OBDII. That will dictate if you need to use the JDM P13 ECU, a chipped ECU (like P28), or a USDM ODBII P13 ECU (only one that works with the H without an immobilizer).
And there's a million threads, literally a million, telling you how to do this swap.
There's a reason there's 4,000 threads about swapping in the H22A an relatively few on the F20B.
The H22A drops right into the Accord and bolts up to everything. There's guides everywhere on what needs to be done with wiring, exhaust, etc.
That said, if there's nothing wrong with your F22B1/2 then why are you dropping money into a car you're only going to keep for a few more years? Both F20B and H22A swaps will be at least $4k to be done correctly - do you really want to drop that much money into a car that's 18 years old?
If you're going to do it, set aside $4k, you'll likely want to get a H22A with the transmission as you'll gain acceleration from having it. The Longblock + Tranny + ECU is ~$2k from a company like HMotorsOnline. The F20B is going to be around that same price as well.
Then you'll want to do maintenance items (injectors, plugs, wires, clutch, flywheel, timing belt, water pump, etc) as well as fix any broken things (sensors, potentially other stuff).
Then after that, you either need to convert your car to OBDI from OBDIIa or convert the motor to OBDII. That will dictate if you need to use the JDM P13 ECU, a chipped ECU (like P28), or a USDM ODBII P13 ECU (only one that works with the H without an immobilizer).
And there's a million threads, literally a million, telling you how to do this swap.
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ruffriderz82
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