I have been debating on a topic for a long time. I graduate this upcoming Thursday, and have no idea what is going to happen with my car situation being that my current 5th gen has a lot of work to throw at it. I don't know if my plans on swapping with my step dad for his 6th gen is happening because either way, a new car would be needed (if we do not put money into this 5th gen). So, just in case, I have been looking up prices and stuff to replace "everything" (in quotes because I know, technically not everything) in the front, since just replacing the rotors will require me to expose a lot of the components.
So far on my list


Rockauto.com
- Front Left Half Shaft: APWI #HO8055
- Front Right Half Shaft: APWI # HO8054
- Front Right LCA: Beck/Arnley #1024674
- Front Left LCA: Beck/Arnley #1024673
- TRE (Outer, left): Beck/Arnley #1014619
- TRE (Outer, right): Beck/Arnley #1014636
- Rotors x 2: Centric Premium # 12040022
- Wheel Bearing x 2: Timken #513098
- Plus pads

Am I missing anything for the front end list?

What about a rear list? What would that consist of? Rear UCA, Front and back LCAs, Drums + pads?

-Struts/ Springs, might just go with koni's and some springs (Oranges or yellows + H&R Sports)

Front alone (Without pads +the struts/springs) comes to $304.48 without shipping included, unless RA is free

EDIT/ ADDITION: Is it worth it to throw the money into it? This was my parents "ride-it-til-it-dies" car. they did oil changes, fuel it up, and basically it. And being in high school, they gave it to me.

Currently,
- Front windshield is scratched (looks like someone turned on windshield wipers with dirt all over the window)
- Front side windows squeal, and have vertical scratches, plus regulators are bad
- Front brake rotors + pads are getting bad (rotors already below minimum)
- Struts/shocks are all shot
- almost 220k miles
- Front wiper arms are "loose" and go off the driver side and pop back on with a snapping/window chipping sound, being that it hits driver's side window
- Rear Drums + shoes will be due soon

 

Is the car in good shape other than the issues you listed? How does the car drive? You may not need to do all that front end work. I have a 94 accord I bought from the original owners. Now it sounds like they were more particular about maintenance and such, but at 310k miles all the suspension components are still original and it is one of the tightest driving cars I have ever had. Now it does need brake rotors replaced when I put it back on the road and so , like you, I am prolly gonna rebuild the front end. You need to include upper ball joints in your list. And you can replace just the ball joints in the Lca, you dont have to replace the whole thing.

 

If you are going to drive it for awhile, I would highly recommend you get Raxle-brand cv halfshafts. I can pretty much guarantee that those cheap APWI shafts will vibrate and shimmy on acceleration. Here is what I went through, I wasted a few months of my life I won't get back chasing down this stupid problem: https://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-...ation-3227179/

Beck/Arnley makes good parts and they are good choices for the suspension. For shocks, I tried Raybestos "professional grade" first. Made in China, and not good quality. To their credit, they allowed me to return them for a refund after 30 days. KYB's on the front now and Monroe Quickstruts on the back, both nice and quiet.

Regarding your wiper arm, you will probably need new assemblies, the plastic bushings break but they are not replaceable. Majestic Honda has them for a reasonable price.

As jollyhonda mentioned, you forgot UCAs, which include the upper ball joint. You also forgot the lower ball joints which will probably need replacing.

Lastly, for the rear, the only ball joint is in the upper control arm so that will definitely need to be changed. Otherwise its just rubber bushings. The replacement arms with bushings are cheap but all of mine were still in good condition so I left them alone.

 

Well, some cosmetic issues, but it is a 21 y/o car, which was my parent's beater before I got it, just wish the front side windows didn't have vertical scratches D: Besides the maintenance issues I listed, it seems fine. The Temp gauge may have a loose ground behind the dash somewhere, cause once the key is turned to on, the gauge goes past the red. and sometimes it will sink below the halfway mark. I hear the fans come on and don't smell burning, so I am sure it is fine with no over-heating problems.
Fuel gauge can use a replacement (Odometer went out for a few months, so maybe the whole cluster is just a mess), and probably need a new fuel filter soon, being that the car has been in my family for about 12 years, and I have no idea if it was ever replaced.

Engine leaks oil at the oil. Back in August I replaced the Upper and lower O-rings for the spark plug tubes (and yeah, the VC gasket too)

As far as the actual driving, between shifts, my car kind of feels not so smooth, I feel it shift into gear (it is an automatic, maybe just need a good ol' flush). Needs a valve lash adjustment, I will be able to do that. Sounds like I have an exhaust manifold leak, not for sure though.

Those are all I notice right now, being that I had it in this condition for about a year now. Lol.. -.-

The UCA Ball joints were replaced a little less than a year ago, so those ball joints are good
And for the LCA, just replace the joint? alright, sounds a bit easier than the whole thing. Might need to redo the sway bar end links too, haven't checked them out though.

I will swap the brand I chose for the Half-shafts, if I do go through with this car. So thanks for the heads up on that
So for the rear, just the Upperball joint? I will check the bushins for cracks and wear sometime soon, if I am in fact keeping this 5th Gen (I will know by Saturday)

And the windshield wiper problem, is an easy repair? If so, I could just repair it.

 

Here is how I look at it...you can drop $500-600 on this car for maintenance and such and you will know what you have. Or sell it for a grand, throw the $600 you would have spent with that and you can buy a $1600 car and hope for the best of luck. No I am a strictly no car payment guy, so that is what I would consider as options. Or throw more cash together for a Better car. You can do a lot of repairs and still come out ahead of a $300 car payment.

 

Very true. That is something I haven't thought about. I wonder what I could pull for my accord.

 

On my 93 (I assume yours is the same) the lower ball joint is actually pressed into the spindle, not the LCA. So, unfortunately, you have to pull the spindle and get the joint pressed out. You'll probably find that the LCA bushings are pretty worn out so it's still worth changing them.

One other thing you might check is the radius rod bushings / compliance bushings. If you have things apart you'll have easy access to them. They have both poly and rubber replacements, I got rubber replacements from Beck/Arnley made in Japan, they look like OE. Some folks say the poly bushings make the ride overly harsh.

My guess is that upper ball joint is worn out by now, its easy to see, it is almost directly over the rear tire, kind of hangs down.

Not difficult of a job. Pull the wiper arms, pull the plastic windshield cowl to access the wiper motor, three bolts and the electrical plug, pull the wiper motor. Arms just snap on and off.

 

This seems promising
http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/cto/5053739142.html

 

to press bushings and ball joints out/in just borrow the c-clamp kit and honda adaptor kit from napa or wherever, just be ready to put down a $250 or so deposit.

 

You can also just buy a ball joint press at harbor freight pretty cheap. I used mine to replace both upper and lower on a friend 97 accord

 

Don't forget two inner tie rods as well as for the bellows.