Hello Fellow Honda-Techies,

I have a 1996 Honda Accord VTi. I am based in the Philippines. The engine says PH22. I am a noob at these engine codes. What is the equivalent code in the US? Basically these are among the issues I am currently having:

Sputtering
White Smoke
3rd Spark Plug is leaking I checked because the wire is wet with oil

I was thinking if I can just change the cylinder head instead of it getting repaired. What would fit? F22B1? I saw one on ebay ranging from 230.00 all the way to 700... depending on the work done to the cylinder head. Please help... your suggestions are open...

Would buying a F22B1 rebuilt be a good option?
or Would getting all the seals done and getting the existing cylinder head machined?

 

If the spark plugs are located forward on the cam cover, the engine is a SOHC and has 'VTEC' is most likely a variant of F22B1.

A picture of the engine/engine bay would help identify the engine.

 

Thanks MAD_MIKE. I'll go ahead and take a picture and post it. I have been devastated on the outcome of this honda purchase. I was promised a working vehicle now I am stuck figuring out myself on how to fix it. I will go cheap first to see if that fixes the problem: (Spark Plug O-rings) if that doesn't fix it would the option of buying a rebuilt head be the right path? or just getting the whole head repaired? What fits in this engine block? I'll send photos...

 

white smoke....
I had a 1990 DX that spewed white smoke and it smelled terrible - like cat urine. I thought it was the head gasket letting coolant in the combustion chamber - it was actually the brake booster with a failed diaphragm, allowing brake fluid through the vacuum lines and into the combustion chamber.
I replaced the booster and it fixed the problem....

Just a thought (?)

Regardless, before you go buying heads, perform a compression test, followed by a leak down test to truly narrow down where your problem is coming from. Welcome to EricTheCarGuy.com! - EricTheCarGuy- Stay Dirty! has some great information on identifying the source of your idling and performance issues.

 

ok I figured it out guys... the numbers show as follows on compression test:

# 1 110psi
# 2 100psi
# 3 110psi
# 4 120psi

comes down to # 2 is faulty, misfiring. Now my question is what parts do I buy to complete this job...starting from the top to the source of the problem...rings? gaskets? etc...

 

Those all seem pretty consistent across the board and I'm not sure I'd blame 2 just yet - the variance of 2 is within a reasonable threshold.
I have a 93 accord lx with 190k on it. The car is in exceptional shape and it was putting out nearly 200 psi per cylinder.
Did you run a wet test too? (Put a capful of oil in each cyl and retest)

 

# 1 and 2 are under wettest

 

Usually what parts do I need for a rebuild starting from the valve cover going down to the pistons?

 

Were you holding the throttle open while cranking? Those numbers are a little low, not deathly low, but you ought to be seeing closer to 200 than that.
Has it been determined yet just what motor is in this car?

 

yes i was holding the theottle while cranking. i am assuming but not sure a f22b1. but engine scribes it as ph22. what do i need for the rebuild process?

 

here are some pictures. can someone tell me what engine is it what variant?

 

heres #2 picture

 

and last photo...

 

That looks like a F22B1.

If you have oil in #2 spark plug tube, it most likely is the seal on the cam cover.
A cam cover gasket with tube seals would fix the oil leak issue.

Verify the camshaft is timed correctly to the crank. Put the crank pulley white mark on the timing mark. And verify the camshaft pulley is timed correctly so the 'UP' arrow is pointing up.

If the cam to crank timing is off it will affect the psi output of a crank test.

 

ill try that mad mike. thank you again for all your help ill keep you updated...thanks

 

hi scubacamper...

based on above comments. you were right the number seem ok. the mechanic that I am working with switched out the spark plug and guess what the car ran a lot more smoother, ALOT more smoother. although I am still overheating slightly when I am stopped, but not enough for it to go all the way to the red zone. the mechanic says that it needs a top overhaul. the smoke that comes out of the muffler is a little intense, runs rich at the same time white smoke is appearing... do you think I am going the correct path? One more question, I am planning on buying the parts but I dont know what kind of motor is it...