Hey all,

So my R has hit 240K, and its time for the 60K service. I'll be changing out the plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. This is the first time ever that I will be doing this service myself. I see in the service manual that it mentions to use anti seize on the spark plug threads. So I have some questions, are you guys using anti seize, if so how much, and how do you apply it? For those of you using the factory platinum plugs, I have always heard that any platinum plugs comes pre gapped? Do you just use some cheapo gap tool from advance auto/autozone? Are you guys checking the plug gaps regardless? And about taking the rotor off, is it true that I can unplug that gray connector near the distributor, so that I can crank the car and it will not start, if needed to access the rotor screw and get it into a good position?

Thanks in advance!

UPDATE: also, what are you guys gapping at? Service man. says .043, but NGK says .044?

 

I usually put a small dab of anti seize on one side of the plug and when you screw it in it generally covers majority of the threads.

Whatever you do don't use the 4 pronged bosch plugs. Use NGK or Denso Iridiums and yes always check the gap. I usually gap to .044

Are you also going to do a valve adjustment or when was it last done? Fuel filter and coolant might be good to do as well if it hasn't been done in a while.

Take off the plugs wires and you can crank it a couple times to get the screw to the right position. Be careful with that screw it's easy to lose.

 

Thanks for the tips! I'm using the NGK OEM Platinum (PFR6G-11), they are the single ground electrode ones. I haven't had a valve adjustment done in a while, I've never done one of those myself, I always get my technician buddies to do that for me. I may have to pay someone to do it, b/c I don't live near my technician buddies anymore, lol. Fuel filter was done a while ago, and so was coolant. I may try the fuel filter myself.

When you say take off the plug wires, do you mean from the spark plug end? or the distributor cap end?

 

Well technically if you're changing the cap and rotor you would have to take them off from the distributor side. Since you're doing plugs as well you have to take off the plug side. Just remember what firing order they are in once you put your new cap back on.

 

ok duh! lol sorry, I wasn't thinking it all the way through. I was talking about doing the cranking for the rotor position. But to even see the rotor screw I would already have the cap off, lol.

 

I thought NGK plugs are coated so you don't need to add anti seize to it?

 

I've never heard that before. But the service manual states to use anti-seize. hmm...