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Son crashed his 96 accord LX F22 non vtec automatic, engine is good. I have a 95 accord EX F22 vtec 5 speed with bad motor. Will the 96 non vtec engine go into the 95 vtec vehicle, without intensive retrofits and expense? Is a better alternative find a used vtec for the 95? Trying to hold down the $$. Thanks
FWIW, if the short block of the 95 is trashed but the head is fine, you can use the short block of the '96 with the VTEC head. You will need to open the oil port that feeds the VTEC head on the '96, and just ignore the crank sensor. Everything else should bolt up from the '96 from the '95.
If the head is trashed too, cheapest would be as Manny said, a low-mileage B1 from an importer.
Thanks guys, will get the JDM. Now need to move the non vtec & tranny I pulled out of the 96. In Atlanta area if anyone interested, 197K mi, new timing belt water pump & head rework.
You might check on a jdm f23a. It is a 2.3 liter vtech motor. I bought a couple to use for engine swaps. They are much less expensive than the f22b1. I paid $250 each for mine from an imported. Should be a bolt in swap to your car.
I think you use the injectors original to the car. Something a resistor box or such. You can use the intake and exhaust manifolds original to the car, or you can get the iab adaptor and keep the F23 intake. If the connectors all match you can keep the f23 distributor. Here is an example....
The f22 flywheel bolts up. The a/c compressor bracket on the 22 is cast iron and 23 is aluminum, but they match. I believe you have to use the F22 ps pump bracket. If you Google f23a swap into 94 accord you can find some good info on the swap. But you are a step ahead by already having a vtech car.
I'm about to try starting this thing up, but am still slightly unsure about distributor positioning and timimg. crank pulley is @ TDC, but dist rotor is pointing at #4 in cap. Alignment tbs on cam and distributor are offset, so it can only go in one way, correct?
With crank at tdc the distributor will either point at 1 or 4...depends on where the cam is. But yes the dizzy only properly fits one way. What motor did you end up getting?
Motor swapped. Everything seemed to be running fine for 50 miles or so, but this morning son called, engine running rough and shut off, observed cat converter glowing hot. Prob original cat @ 227K miles.
Check to make sure that the distributor has not moved. Excessively retarded timing will cause the mixture to burn as it enters the exhaust. When it hits the cat it just gets hotter and can cause the glowing cat syndrome. Also burning extremely lean can cause a glowing cat. But I would start with the timing.
From the exhaust pipe back is off, waiting to put on cat & piping from wrecked 96 in my yard. Car will run 15-30 seconds, then sputter and die. Swapped PGMFI from 96 wreck, still no improvement. Should I suspect the distributor? Or fuel system components? Or ECM?
Thought we had this thing done. Car ran awesome for 10-12 miles/minutes, then sputtered and died, will not start again until near completely cooled down. Changed distributor-still dies. It seems to die in less time each time it runs. All grounds look OK. Frustrated...
Is it puffing any smoke at all when it dies? Sounds like a possible engine coolant temp sensor issue. If it is doa then it is never showing a change in coolant temp and thus keeping the mixture too rich. Had that happen on a GMC pickup i used to own. The ect died and was telling the ecm that coolant was like -40 on a nice summer day. I sign if this would be puffing black smoke from the tail pipe.
No smoke at all. Took it to a mechanic in town, gave him the history...we will see.
Thanks for all the posts. She is finally running! Really only 2 issues that had to be addressed:
1) glowing catalytic converter-was aftermarket trashed. Replaced with the exhaust off wreck 96, runs fine.
2) Intermittent sputter and dies-had 2 bad ground connections. One at the negative battery terminal to chasis, the other was a wire ground (not well) to the intake.
96 to 95 accord engine swap
