Hello. Seeking to make a thread about my not-running-properly.. car. Is a 1995 EJ1 Auto made in Canada.. but does NOT have a D16Z6. After perusing threads, I saw where to look. And I have:




.

So, that was a new discovery. I changed spark plugs and wires and the car always does the same thing: Randomly stalls immediately losing power, starts back up shortly after depressurizing cooling system with the safety valve on the aftermarket radiator cap.

Car appears to have an exhaust (?) leak in Cylinder 4, closest passenger side. This by pulling plugs after shutdown. That cyl is only one with misty vapor in it.

Tools I have include:



. Yes, I found it. I left it on, too..

I also have 1/2" drive ratchet, sockets, pliers, water, antifreeze, PB Blaster, fuses, Torx sockets, screwdrivers, and I know I am forgetting many things.

Not sure where to start but.. the engine sounds perfect just before it stalls on me while driving. Also confirmed water pump is bad.. stream of water from just behind pulley when full hot.

What to do first?

**Oh.. and I took a piece of wire, and counted the blinks for my SRS and ABS codes today. They are:

SRS: Code 11
ABS: Code 48

 

Well, I know I shouldn't but here goes...

First, the writing on the valve cover usually means at least that part (and prob the rest of the parts under it) was from a junk yard.

Second, I believe you have been asked to do compression, block pressure and leak-down tests. You can rent those tools.

Get those numbers then get back to us before you do anything else. "KNOW, Don't guess!" Yoda.

Also, that radiator cap isn't stock, and have been known to leak, but you know what you like, so, whatever.

Good luck

 

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...s-ej1-3246608/

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...-dead-3246858/

Every time you make a thread, you fail to do anything that is asked of you. Before anyone wastes their time, what are you willing to do to prove that this won't happen again?

 

Also post the head code:

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d.../#post48684945

 

K, so you're saying you have an exhaust leak in cylinder 4. Are you talking saying its leaking from the headers? Not making any sense.

 

Thought I was the only one that noticed that lol.

 

I think you shouldn't derail this thread, and that the wording of your post tells me all I need to know. Noted. Now let us keep moving forward.

No power? = Was a main fuse. Replaced. Fixed.
Spark plugs? = all are now in there. Not trying to read them at the present time. Maybe a different time.

(I really need the car for everyday purposes, folks. So let me see if I can get a compression tester today, if I can. Even local.) O-K. It has been mentioned that my premise of "exhaust leak Cyl. #4" makes no sense. Probably isn't that. Im not sure what I was saying there. I was attempting to describe how, in a previous time, I removed all the plugs after the engine was shut off after running and noticed a difference in Cyl #4.. but I am sure we will get back to this.

Head code seems to be P07-1?



As to "Compression tester." Maybe I will just buy one. Am paying for my Lisle spill-free funnel.. let me see if I can get a compression tester as well. There is a hardware store down the block, but I want to continue to amass my own arsenal of tools.

And I verified I need a new water pump.. water leaking from behind pulley under pressure.

 

I don't believe it was a derail as much as a caution to all the other members that may have not already seen the course of action you have a tendency to take.

It's quite true you have done this several times, dismissed 98% of what was said and did your own dance.

That is all fine and dandy but many of us are taking it as you, know everything about your car and are just sharing your experience. Not that you are here to receive any guidance or input.

So many of us are just going to sit back and watch.

Good luck as some of us monitor your forward progress in silence.

head codes

 

With all of that said, my observation is that you have what appears to be just the D15Z1 being used in place of the D16Z6. It appears it was done as a 1 for 1 engine ONLY swap as the manifolds appear to be reused from the Z6. My question would be did they leave the Z6 injectors and P28 ECU in place as well?

 

https://youtu.be/FI3mkGfMcsc

 

Why no embed

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FI3mkGfMcsc

 

I bought

 

Get some numbers, and don't forget to disconnect the distributor plugs so you don't fry the coil.

 

Help please. 2011 Acura MDX won't start after mistakenly put positive and negative together while getting a booster. Can u help please

 

^You are in the wrong forum and in the future you should create your own thread.

 

Not in the mood for this. Too smarmy. Closet de-rails are still de-rails.. I don't care who he is, He has no place giving a caution, he is just a member here like all of us. Now, if we could not play into this measuring contest we have, then, we can perhaps see what is up with this car. The attitude problems we have should sit this one out.

As to the car - you have any insight as to the car? . Please share what should next be done. Thanks

There are no returns on that compression tester and I think I need someone to turn the key while I take the reading? .. What I am doing right now is watching Youtubers as to a "wet" vs "dry" compression test, to see if I need a second person.

Add if you have any thing

**Also: My tools were in that Envoy, so, I don't seem to be hearing the same fuel noise.. gonna do that "crack the fuel nut and spray test" when engine is cold.

So take the energy put into the unit measuring contest, and let's diagnose this car while its sitting in my driveway while its "Crank, No Start." A lot of this is first-time work for me.

Focus on the Honda.

Cool?

Cool.

 

This is incorrect, D15Z1 is the LX engine (1.5L) and as I go to check head codes (it's not a P2J! Someone here was wrong! Can happen, it's all good,) I will proceed with engine/car tests as I learn how to perform them and your snarky quote should be the last.

back on track.. I think previous owner may have chose D15Z1 block because "It is still VTEC" and I get the very basic of one of the kinds of VTEC. Again.. learning. (When I first got my car, I thought it had a weird transmission problem. Turns out it was VTEC. Hasnt done VTEC in awhile.)

I read the codes,
Got the compression tester,
FOUND MY MULTIMETER,
And get to revisit the car as I learn more.
From here is best.

To keep with the engine in there sure would be the easiest thing, so I'm down for some testing. Though I wonder what a D16Z6 would be like. But that is for another day! lol

 

:good:

^^ I actually suspect that I may have fried the coil.. I am going to re-watch the video on distributor/coil test (also "Igniter") as well.

I had dizzy cap off.. no oil at all. Now to see how to do the test.. again, I think I need someone to crank it!

 

I hate it when I lose a post. Apologies on the consecutive posts; will have proper view from my laptop soon.

Is this the ECU? What else do I disassemble to see?

 

https://youtu.be/VxP_vu00KCM

 

^^ Hey! It's fuel.. It just started (and then immediately died) with starting fluid.

Fuel.

**Edit: NOT SAYING IT LIKE "I KNOW IT'S FUEL" .. Let me elaborate on what I mean. I mean, that.. since I just decided to "see if it would start with starting fluid," and it did.. that this tells me that SOME component of the FUEL SYSTEM is not working. And, since I verified that there appears to be NO fuel pressure.. not even when cranking.. nor do I hear the pump priming.. that.. though it *could* be a fuel relay, it could also be something either causing the relay not to come on or send power to the pump, or be the pump itself. "Something fuel related." Felt like I should add that on for this forum.. which is what it is.

 

Next up for me:

 

^^ This is how I tested my fuel pressure.

 

And.. Now, we should be all caught up.

Came back with the compression tester.

Going for soldering iron now.

Progress!