Our accords have AC but they work best early and late in the day. If they sit in the hot sun and you get in and crank the AC up it cools only so much. Rather than just pump r134 into them I understand its best to test pressure with the gauges and see. I do have a set of gauges but havent used them yet. Whats the best steps on trying to diagnose the issue?

 

I was looking over this DIY troubleshoot thread

https://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-...ystem-2793650/

and the 1996 Accord turns out that the cooling fan wasnt even working. The Condensor fan does but not the cooling fan. I took the 20 amp fuse and tested it with the multimeter for continuity. It beeped so its fine. But then I tried taking the Cooling fan relay out and continuity testing it and I assumed that of the four tabs, with 2 being silver and 2 looking coppery that I would put one probe on silver and one on copper. No beep. I assumed it was a dud. I switched the relay for the power windows with the cooling fan relay and it still powered the condenser fan and the windows. So I assume the relays are fine and I just dont know how to accurately test them with the multimeter. The I unplugged the cooling fan connector and tested for voltage with the car running and it is reading 0's.

What should I do next on the 96 to get the fan working again?


On the 2000 accord both fans work and the compressor is cycling and it does cool when not in full sun. The reading the of the thermometer placed in the vent was 40 degrees. I guess plug up the gauges and see if I get some reading someone can help decipher?

 

Fix the fan problem by all means then read your owners manual and see that windows down for the first few blocks to remove the head temp.

 

Tested the Coolant/Radiator fan and no spin. I guess its off to find a junk yard or buy one online.

 

The A/C transfer on your Honda, as most vehicles today, is PC controlled. The hand-off will have electrical force at two terminals of the hand-off with the key on and power at one and only terminal with the key off. In the event that there is no electrical force present at the hand-off, then you need to investigate the circuits. There are two circuits for the hand-off. One can be found in the under dash wire board. It will be a 7.5 amp combine and will be situated in position #6 of the breaker board marked A/C grip transfer/cooling fan hand-off. The other breaker is situated in the under hood transfer and circuit box. This is a 15 amp intertwine and will be in position # 34 and marked condenser/fan. In the event that both breakers are great and there is electrical energy to two of the terminals at the A/C compressor grip transfer, then you have a control issue. It could be as straightforward as a terrible transfer or the A/C framework is low in control. The A/C framework has a weight switch that stops the operation of the A/C compressor if the charge of refrigerant in the framework gets to be lacking, too low. This is done to avert harm to the compressor. To analyze a control issue will require more particular hardware, larger amount of preparing and learning for finding. Now I would propose that you include a repair office to play out this analysis.

 

Definitely want to fix your fan if it is not working on your 1996
Assuming that your refrigerant is good and your AC system is in normal working condition. Check the following after you have your fan fixed/replaced regardless if the replacement fan helps your casue or not


1. Take out your blower and clean out the inside chamber. The blower is located above the passenger side footwell. There are 3-4 screws holding it up. You could roll back your floor carpet to create some needed clearance for the blower removal. I did not need to do that on mine, but it was a very tight squeeze.
2. If you notice your 96 accord don't come with a cabin filter. Thus, whatever deris get thru the 2 black plastic outside screen just right below the wipers, will end up inside your AC system--they deposit right onto your evaporator. If you still have the original evaporator, I can bet you $100 that it is full of junk on the side facing the blower. Removing these junk from your evaporator will improve the cooling efficiency. Unfortunately, there isn't a good way of cleaning the evaporator without opening up your A/C system. You may be able to insert a flexible hose of a vacuum thru the opening of the blower and suck debris out, but you would be working blind. There is an expansion valve and thermostat attached to the evaporator so you could damage them if not being careful.

 

The rad fan needs to be working for the condenser to get enough airflow to cool it when it is hot out.

If you connect your A/C manifold gauge set and run the A/C, [on hot day] you will see the high side gauge go way up and the higher it goes the "warmer" the air out of the vents will be, blowing air, [with fan] or running water over condenser will drop the high side pressure, [head pressure] and vent temps will drop. 94