Alright i have a d16y7 with y8 head, and my harnass is obd2 to obd1 from rywire. I have a p28 chipped and its in a classic mini cooper so i do not have the civic cluster or really have the option to install it because the harnass is pretty straight forward. But i am not getting the car to start i have literley have checked everything multi times. But my question is i am trying to hook up a temp check engine light and on my harnass i have a mil wire and scs wire and i understand that you can just those plugs to get a light on the cluster. Does anyone have a idea on how i can set this up to see if i have any codes. there is just one wire for both of those on this harnass
thanks
jason

 

things i have checked are
fuel pressure
plugs
vaccuum leaks
distributor
map sensor
injector pulse
tps is set
main relay
pump is priming and running when cranking
timing
grounds
battery

 

Add car information.

 

bottom end is out of a 99 civic lx and the head is from a 96 civic ex car is a 75 mini cooper

 

It sounds like to me you need to decipher the 96-98 gauge cluster.

I am not really sure if there is any extra circuitry between the ecu and the idiot lights of the cluster. I do know there is extra circuitry to the speedo/odometer and tach.

It might be fruitful to spend a few hours at your local salvage yard and rip into a gauge cluster at no cost to you. You can follow the ribbon board on the back and rip into it to see what idiot lights connect to where.

Thinking from my little bit of experience with ripping into the 92-95 gauge clusters, I don't recall noticing any extra circuittry for the idiot lights but I didn't really focus on those as my problem was the speedo. I could be severely mistaken.

Once you know that, then you will know if anything more is needed besides the pins of the ECU that correlate to the various idiot lights on the cluster. Unfortunately I am not well versed so I can't answer that for you.

 

No-crank problem or cranks-but-won't-start problem? Does the fuel pump prime? Spark at the plugs?

The CEL bulb gets constant battery voltage with the key in ON(II), and CEL bulb's ground wire pins to ECU A13.

The 2P service connector that you jump to pull codes has one wire that pins to ECU D4 and the second wire that pins to D22.

 

Pin 13, connector A. Grounds out when the CEL is on. In the Rywire harness, I believe you should still have the jumper plug to make it blink. You should just be able to hook up a light to pin 13 connector A and read the blink codes from there. Even better, you could mount that light somewhere on your dash for future use.

edit: Damn you RonJ for beating me to it

 

You'll need a way to check codes. If you have no way of doing that than its hard to help. Could possibly rig up something though.