92 Cx Build Thread
Finally decided to start a build thread. I find myself on Honda-tech reading other peoples builds all the time, and have done a few builds myself, just never got around to making one. I've already started the car, so the first bit will just be getting up to date. After that I'll be trying to document progress more in depth, and more pictures. I guess to start off, the build seeded from my last hatch. It was an N/A ls vtec 94 dx, I barely got to drive the car. Briefly after getting it on the road, I was t-boned, and after a week in the hospital, stripped what was left of the car. Before:

After:

Spent some time looking for a clean shell, and came across an H-T member that was somewhat local, selling a clean 92 cx hatch. A little rough around the edges, but no rust. Car came with rear disc conversion, extended wheel studs, several other goodies. A diamond in the rough:

So I rented a u haul trailer, and towed her back to my uncles garage. My uncle has a rather decent paint booth setup, and the car direly needed a paintjob. There was quite a few dings in the driver door, especially one around the crease around the door handle, so I picked up a drivers door off a totalled cx locally that was just resprayed. The tailgate had the keyhole filled with putty, so that too got replaced, as did the fenders (car on the left is another ongoing project):

Started sanding off all the spray paint:

Some bodywork:

Decided to use the OEM Milano Red color, since the car was going to be gutted, and I didn't feel like painting the interior of the shell. In order to cut costs, I went with PPG sealer/ single stage, versus the primer/base coat/clear coat method. Prepped for paint:

Sealed:

Sprayed:

Ordered a new clutch, Competition Clutch Stage 3.5 segmented clutch and 12lb. flywheel:

Some more parts, Crow harness, Energy shifter bushings, AN fittings for the fuel line:

Deleted the door wiring harness, and patched the harness holes:

Pre wet sanding:

Here's the swap out of my last hatch. It's an ls vtec, a little about the build:
B18A1 block
Hasport mounts
Eagle H beam rods
ARP rod bolts
Wiesco 13:1 pistons
Bottom end rebalanced
Golden eagle ls/vtec conversion kit
ARP head studs
B18C1 head
3-angle valve job
ITR cams
Golden eagle adj cam gears
Toda timing belt
Supertech valves
Supertech dual valve springs
Supertech titanium retainers
Golden eagle cam plug
Golden eagle high volume fuel rail
AEM fuel pressure regulator
RC 440cc injectors
NGK plugs and wires
PLM Bisi rep header
USDM 98 spec ITR trans w/ 4.7 LSD
ARP flywheel bolts
ARP clutch bolts:

Swap in:

That's all for now, I'll try to keep the thread updated regularly!

After:

Spent some time looking for a clean shell, and came across an H-T member that was somewhat local, selling a clean 92 cx hatch. A little rough around the edges, but no rust. Car came with rear disc conversion, extended wheel studs, several other goodies. A diamond in the rough:

So I rented a u haul trailer, and towed her back to my uncles garage. My uncle has a rather decent paint booth setup, and the car direly needed a paintjob. There was quite a few dings in the driver door, especially one around the crease around the door handle, so I picked up a drivers door off a totalled cx locally that was just resprayed. The tailgate had the keyhole filled with putty, so that too got replaced, as did the fenders (car on the left is another ongoing project):

Started sanding off all the spray paint:

Some bodywork:

Decided to use the OEM Milano Red color, since the car was going to be gutted, and I didn't feel like painting the interior of the shell. In order to cut costs, I went with PPG sealer/ single stage, versus the primer/base coat/clear coat method. Prepped for paint:

Sealed:

Sprayed:

Ordered a new clutch, Competition Clutch Stage 3.5 segmented clutch and 12lb. flywheel:

Some more parts, Crow harness, Energy shifter bushings, AN fittings for the fuel line:

Deleted the door wiring harness, and patched the harness holes:

Pre wet sanding:

Here's the swap out of my last hatch. It's an ls vtec, a little about the build:
B18A1 block
Hasport mounts
Eagle H beam rods
ARP rod bolts
Wiesco 13:1 pistons
Bottom end rebalanced
Golden eagle ls/vtec conversion kit
ARP head studs
B18C1 head
3-angle valve job
ITR cams
Golden eagle adj cam gears
Toda timing belt
Supertech valves
Supertech dual valve springs
Supertech titanium retainers
Golden eagle cam plug
Golden eagle high volume fuel rail
AEM fuel pressure regulator
RC 440cc injectors
NGK plugs and wires
PLM Bisi rep header
USDM 98 spec ITR trans w/ 4.7 LSD
ARP flywheel bolts
ARP clutch bolts:

Swap in:

That's all for now, I'll try to keep the thread updated regularly!
Last edited by civics4lyfe; Jun 17, 2015 at 05:39 PM.
Thanks! The guy came speeding over a blind hill while I was pulling out from a stop sign, I had a broken rib cage and a collapsed lung. Luckily I didn't have a seat belt on, I was tossed in to the passenger seat on impact.
I hear a lot of horror stories about single stage fading to matte in extensive sunlight exposure, so I guess I'll see how it holds up.
I hear a lot of horror stories about single stage fading to matte in extensive sunlight exposure, so I guess I'll see how it holds up.
More catching-up to date:
Removed the body harness back to the taillights, cut out any unneeded connectors and pulled the wires out of the harness:

Harness stripped, mostly reloomed, ready to be put back in (interior needs cleaned bad, dirty!):

50/50 taillights and c-pillar bar, out of previous hatch (I'm usually against non-OEM taillights, but I kind of like these):

Enkei RPF1's, ordered new for my last hatch, they have about 500 miles on them. One rim was bent on accident & replaced. Decided to plastidip them black. 15x7 +35, 205/50/15 Dunlops. Planning on getting 225 RS3's for these wheels, or just ordering 949 15x8's in the near future:

Dashboard back in, dash harness was also stripped down. Clock, cig lighter, radio, and srs wires and connectors pulled. JDM EG6 cluster:

Took the bumper home, and used it for a template for a front splitter. Couldn't bring myself to ordering a pre-fabbed one, so I cut two out of a $35 sheet of 7/16 exterior grade plywood. May be a bit heavier than fiberglass/carbon fiber, but will do the job (picture makes it look bigger than it actually is, due to the bumper drooping from being laid flat. Actual dimensions are ~4.5" in the front, 2" on sides):

Cut out some brackets from 3/16" diamond plate aluminum I got for free. Ground down the diamonds for a flat surface, painted black:

Some aluminum angle iron for the brackets, as well as tabs for the air dam:
Removed the body harness back to the taillights, cut out any unneeded connectors and pulled the wires out of the harness:

Harness stripped, mostly reloomed, ready to be put back in (interior needs cleaned bad, dirty!):

50/50 taillights and c-pillar bar, out of previous hatch (I'm usually against non-OEM taillights, but I kind of like these):

Enkei RPF1's, ordered new for my last hatch, they have about 500 miles on them. One rim was bent on accident & replaced. Decided to plastidip them black. 15x7 +35, 205/50/15 Dunlops. Planning on getting 225 RS3's for these wheels, or just ordering 949 15x8's in the near future:

Dashboard back in, dash harness was also stripped down. Clock, cig lighter, radio, and srs wires and connectors pulled. JDM EG6 cluster:

Took the bumper home, and used it for a template for a front splitter. Couldn't bring myself to ordering a pre-fabbed one, so I cut two out of a $35 sheet of 7/16 exterior grade plywood. May be a bit heavier than fiberglass/carbon fiber, but will do the job (picture makes it look bigger than it actually is, due to the bumper drooping from being laid flat. Actual dimensions are ~4.5" in the front, 2" on sides):

Cut out some brackets from 3/16" diamond plate aluminum I got for free. Ground down the diamonds for a flat surface, painted black:

Some aluminum angle iron for the brackets, as well as tabs for the air dam:
Last edited by civics4lyfe; Jun 17, 2015 at 05:47 PM.
Okay so I've been out of town the past week, just got back. Kirkey seat and cover, still need to make a bracket:

Centerline Motorsports catch can. I want to modify it with some type of valve to easy drain on the bottom. The fitting locations are rather high up:

Koni/Ground Control suspension, extended top hats in the front, new OEM rear tophats and bushings/hardware was used:


SPC rear camber arms, they're old and seem to be stuck, if I can't get it aligned I may buy a set of Hardrace. I have skunk2 front camber arms I haven't put on yet:

Russell fuel filter and AN line. Still waiting on adapter for the rail:

I put wood filler on the splitter, it took a lot of the wood grain texture off the exposed edge:

Modified stock radiator overflow bracket on an aluminum bracket to relocate:

Bolted up, it has 2 inches or so of clearance from the header. I don't think it'll melt but I'll just try something else if it does:

Seibon hood, I recleared it and buffed it. It was on my daily forever so I wanted to shine it up:

Centerline Motorsports catch can. I want to modify it with some type of valve to easy drain on the bottom. The fitting locations are rather high up:

Koni/Ground Control suspension, extended top hats in the front, new OEM rear tophats and bushings/hardware was used:


SPC rear camber arms, they're old and seem to be stuck, if I can't get it aligned I may buy a set of Hardrace. I have skunk2 front camber arms I haven't put on yet:

Russell fuel filter and AN line. Still waiting on adapter for the rail:

I put wood filler on the splitter, it took a lot of the wood grain texture off the exposed edge:

Modified stock radiator overflow bracket on an aluminum bracket to relocate:

Bolted up, it has 2 inches or so of clearance from the header. I don't think it'll melt but I'll just try something else if it does:

Seibon hood, I recleared it and buffed it. It was on my daily forever so I wanted to shine it up:
Last edited by civics4lyfe; Jun 17, 2015 at 06:01 PM.
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I used a Devilbliss gun set. It was a 3 gun kit with a primer gun, a paint/clear, and a touch up gun for like $90. It really works well, better than harbor freight and way cheaper than 3m.
Rolled the car out of my uncle's garage, tired of working on the floor:

Towing it up to my work to finish things up:

Function7 LCA's, they were on my daily for years, one of the bolts seized up in the sleeve when I tried to removed, contacted F7 and they sent me all new bushings and sleeves!:

Installed my Kirkey seat, i chopped the rails off a stock EG seat and welded 2" angle iron to them, drilled holes and slotted for seat angle adjustment (seat belts are just temporary, roll cage will be welded in soon with harness bar):

Cut this bracket out, the holes fit over studs in the firewall for the heater box, the studs welded on the bracket will hold the ecu up and out of the way:

FINALLY got my Summit -10AN to 1/2 hose barbs in, they were backordered for forever and I couldn't find them elsewhere. Most -10AN to hose barbs go to 5/8 hose barbs, but I am running the Prelude 1/2" fittings on the back of my block, so these will make it much simpler to plumb:

Custom battery tray welded up, with nuts welded to the base of the legs. Drilled holes through the floor and bolted it from below, still need to clean up the wiring:

Skunk2 ultra series manifold, i just put the runners on for the photo op:

New valve cover, had a buddy weld up AN fittings for the catch can, then painted wrinkle black:

Engine bay pic with the ultra manifold, new valve cover, and catch can hoses all installed:

Installed the splitter, and just got my PCI 5" side skirts in the mail, installing them soon:

Just a pic of her sitting out back, lowered the splitter down some, it's going to be hard to drive around on the road!:

PCI side skirts installed, finished wiring up some odds and ends, far from done but on the road!:

Towing it up to my work to finish things up:

Function7 LCA's, they were on my daily for years, one of the bolts seized up in the sleeve when I tried to removed, contacted F7 and they sent me all new bushings and sleeves!:

Installed my Kirkey seat, i chopped the rails off a stock EG seat and welded 2" angle iron to them, drilled holes and slotted for seat angle adjustment (seat belts are just temporary, roll cage will be welded in soon with harness bar):

Cut this bracket out, the holes fit over studs in the firewall for the heater box, the studs welded on the bracket will hold the ecu up and out of the way:

FINALLY got my Summit -10AN to 1/2 hose barbs in, they were backordered for forever and I couldn't find them elsewhere. Most -10AN to hose barbs go to 5/8 hose barbs, but I am running the Prelude 1/2" fittings on the back of my block, so these will make it much simpler to plumb:

Custom battery tray welded up, with nuts welded to the base of the legs. Drilled holes through the floor and bolted it from below, still need to clean up the wiring:

Skunk2 ultra series manifold, i just put the runners on for the photo op:

New valve cover, had a buddy weld up AN fittings for the catch can, then painted wrinkle black:

Engine bay pic with the ultra manifold, new valve cover, and catch can hoses all installed:

Installed the splitter, and just got my PCI 5" side skirts in the mail, installing them soon:

Just a pic of her sitting out back, lowered the splitter down some, it's going to be hard to drive around on the road!:

PCI side skirts installed, finished wiring up some odds and ends, far from done but on the road!:
Last edited by civics4lyfe; Jun 17, 2015 at 07:02 PM.
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