So after fixing my leak radiator the upper hose went leak..

After replacing the upper hose the radiator went leak again.. fixed again (Locitice durapox...It had sprung a leak on the top where the two parts the upper part meets the radiator itself)

This works for a week and then it starts to leak again but now I have the added bonus of water boiling in the overflow reservoir when the car gets warm..

I read several possibilities but non seem to be similar to my situation.. any help will be greatly appreciated.

-No slush,goo in the oil and no oil in the water reservoir and the temperature never goes above normal-

 

FYI I now live in Brazil where wages are low and import tax is 60% on shipping cost and items together.
I am working on a big list of things to order from Rockauto as it seems they have the best prices.
This car has been imported back in the day and it is impossible to get the parts for it here unless you pay silly money.

Brazil sucks big time for car enthusiasts

 

Compression test the motor. Be sure to remove the 15a ecu fuse in the engine bay fuse assembly before testing.

 

If there is air in the cooling system the issue you describe can and will happen.....then based upon the fact that you are chasing/fixing cooling system leaaks.....seems to me as there is too much air in the cooling system.

A compression test doesn't cost anything (if you have the tool) besides a bit of your time.

 

A compression test isn't going to help. You need to do a cylinder leak down test as you probably have a blown head gasket.

 

A compression test tells you if there is head gasket sealing issues.

A leakdown test tells you specifically where its leaking, if the compression comes back positive for leakage.

 

You can have good compression tests results and still have a head gasket issue.

 

Not to the extent that the OP's issue wouldnt show up in the results which is what we care about right now.

We just want to isolate the boiling water issue right now.

 

You may definitely be looking at a head gasket issue. That could explain the constant new leaks springing up.

 

Thank you very much for all your input guys!

Ok motor compression tested and it is in perfect condition..

De-Aired the cooling system several times...

Checked head gasket and head... perfect condition..

Guess what.. the intake manifold gasket was broke near the water tunnel..

Not sure if this is the cause of all as I am waiting for a new one and then test and see if all is working properly, will keep you all updated.

 

That's the only likely explanation.

 

Look the head gasket over carefully. It is a multi layer gasket, and you can have a break in just 1 layer. Lots of times it won't show up in a compression test. And sometimes it takes the engine warming up before the break opens up enough to create much of a compression leak. I know this from experience.

 

If the head is warped it will show up in a compression test even on a cold engine. Assuming the OP did the conpression test as you should then the engine was already warmed up anyhow. The compression loss will just get worse as the car heats up.

If the intake manifold gasket is leaking where the exhaust egr and coolant meet that would allow exhaust gases to leak and shoot through the system til it finds an exit in the coolant reservoir.

Again this is the only likely explanation.

 

For me it seems the only plausible cause and will keep things updated here when I have gotten the new one installed.

The old one was broken and glued at one point lol.

 

It looks like the previous owner found the same problem you have with parts cost and availability and chose a short cut for a fix. Good luck!

 

Update .. (forgot)

So I had the head resurfaced a new head gasket a new alu radiator with silicone hoses new cap etc done.

On the first outing I got stuck in a traffic jam and my temperature shot up... no hard shoulder and no place to stop... a long and embarrassing story later*.... I killed my automatic.

On the bright side the water did not boil over in the tank.

One ventilator died on me,,,
*never put your auto in reverse when you are coasting down the highway at 100 and you have your ignition off... never!

 

Sounds like you fixed the head without even fixing the underlying condition that caused the overheating. Also, you should be using only 50/50 in the cooling system(50 percent pure coolant and 50 percent distilled water) and not tap water, which is distrastrous for an engine and cooling system.

 

I had the head checked and it needed resurfacing the ventilator was working fine all the time it was one of the first things I checked.

I used Bardahl radiator fluid to fill the system.