Stumbled upon this neat alternative for drain lines and venting valve covers
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So I was trolling ebay yesterday like usual when I found this..
10 An Oil Pan Drain Return Fitting Aluminum Turbo T3 T4 T6 GT30 GT35R T70 Silve | eBay




It would work well for anyone without access to a welder or in applications where welding isn't a viable option. It's basically a two piece fitting with a teflon o-ring to prevent leaks and a set screw to prevent the fitting halves from coming loose.
I might use these on my SVT Focus for venting the valve cover since the cover is magnesium and there's only one pre-existing vent on the crankcase. Also might try these on the accord for venting the valve cover since my main welder/fabricator who can TIG aluminum just moved 90 miles away one way.
Anyone have opinions? I think this is a fairly brilliant product. Only thing I would be interested in knowing is what the actual inner diameter of the fitting is.
10 An Oil Pan Drain Return Fitting Aluminum Turbo T3 T4 T6 GT30 GT35R T70 Silve | eBay
It would work well for anyone without access to a welder or in applications where welding isn't a viable option. It's basically a two piece fitting with a teflon o-ring to prevent leaks and a set screw to prevent the fitting halves from coming loose.
I might use these on my SVT Focus for venting the valve cover since the cover is magnesium and there's only one pre-existing vent on the crankcase. Also might try these on the accord for venting the valve cover since my main welder/fabricator who can TIG aluminum just moved 90 miles away one way.
Anyone have opinions? I think this is a fairly brilliant product. Only thing I would be interested in knowing is what the actual inner diameter of the fitting is.
I have no idea what youre trying to do with that.
That goes to the oil pan for a return line from a catch can?
That goes to the oil pan for a return line from a catch can?
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It's a bulkhead fitting with a set screw. You can use it to tap a pan for a turbo return line or use it to vent a valvecover to a catch can.
Red loctite would prevent the set screw from backing out, or you can safety wire it.
It's basically for people who don't have access to a welder or in applications that you can't weld... For example like my SVT Focus and it's magnesium valve cover, same for the later EVO models with their magnesium covers.
Red loctite would prevent the set screw from backing out, or you can safety wire it.
It's basically for people who don't have access to a welder or in applications that you can't weld... For example like my SVT Focus and it's magnesium valve cover, same for the later EVO models with their magnesium covers.
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Thanks for posting this, gonna recommend to my friend
Im curious why doesnt the picture when it shows the 2 pieces have a set screw? Is it a different design?
Im curious why doesnt the picture when it shows the 2 pieces have a set screw? Is it a different design?
A steel version aswell
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or if just wanting to run regular lines and not mess with an fittings

aparently theres some competition in the ebay marketplace lmao
or if just wanting to run regular lines and not mess with an fittings
aparently theres some competition in the ebay marketplace lmao
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Who is Mr Robot?
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bulkhead fittings? no
bulkhead fittings with a set screw to prevent backing off? yes
I was going to buy a standard -AN bulkhead fitting and put my own set screw on it in addition to safety wire but after finding this it's sort of a no brainer. Not to mention these are cheaper
bulkhead fittings with a set screw to prevent backing off? yes
I was going to buy a standard -AN bulkhead fitting and put my own set screw on it in addition to safety wire but after finding this it's sort of a no brainer. Not to mention these are cheaper
I supply those same fittings with my carbon boxes. Should be a -10 an with a 1/2" 18 thread. It's called an orb fitting. If you are afraid of it backing off torque it with loc tite and ***** the nut... That set screw adds to the Murphy's law factor.
C-hink (take a center punch and punch the nut at the threads at 0* and 90*) I guess the forum filter thinks it's a racist comment
Back in the day used to take a turbo drain flange drill out the three holes in the oil pan and bolt it onto the pan with some high temp RTV on the bolts to keep the nuts from vibrating loose. Ran that for 6 years never a problem. never had a welder and didnt want to pay to get it done haha
What I mentioned is very common. But.... Would you mind helping me to understand where you are going to safety wire a jam nut inside an oil pan or valve cover? Inside a motor? Doesn't seem practical at all not to mention nothing to secure the wire to. Loctite yes.... Safety wire..... Nahhhh also there are self locking nuts that also have built in o rings and packings. Also.... On an orb fitting you would need to safety wire the jam nut as well as the orb fitting.... Very redundant.
They also make aluminum 10an bulkhead fittings with nylon washers that work well for preventing leaks. As stated, use red Loctite.
These are great for vehicles that have plastic valve covers. Those can be difficult to weld.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-AN-Fuel-Cell-Bulkhead-With-Nut-Washer-PRE79010BLK-/230398436049?hash=item35a4d122d1&vxp=mtr
These are great for vehicles that have plastic valve covers. Those can be difficult to weld.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-AN-Fuel-Cell-Bulkhead-With-Nut-Washer-PRE79010BLK-/230398436049?hash=item35a4d122d1&vxp=mtr
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this stupid magnesium valve cover has been a large source of pain in my *** lately.
The fitting does not appear to have a receiving groove for the o-ring. If this is the case there is a high likelihood that the seal will get squeezed out or over stressed. Not really a fan...
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Who is Mr Robot?
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
there's a receiving groove in the AN side of the fitting, it's just hard to tell
) weld fittings into a valve cover. I have a valve cover, but this is the first time I've seen this and I don't know much about.
I still have my old LS one if you want it.
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