so i bought a B18C5 Bare block With a spun bearing 'R' Crank on #2 cylinder. all the main caps included and ect.

Ive been wanting to rebuild the engine with some 12.4:1 comp wiseco pistons and some nice H beam Brian crower rods. But im stuck on a big dilemma as the crank when i messured it all the main journals were fine. But ofcourse the #2Cylinder was badly scratched. It messurwd at 44.54mm if i remember correctly. I took it to a machine shop and the guy told me he could reweld it and fix it but it wouldnt be the same even more for hogh performance. So my question is.

Is my crank salvagable or should i buy a new one ?

Ive read on using a GSR crank that its vwry similar and identical stroke (being 87.2mm) and having it balanced but it isnt the same with the counter weights of a 'R' crank. as well as using a LS/b20 crank but then the stroke (89mm) will be to long so ill need to delete my oil squirters which i dont want. So i need help and if you recommend a new aftermarket crank give me facts of personal experiance not the brochure.

Pictures below are of the crank its self. And i know i shouldnt of placed it on the ground like that



The crabk also has a slight shade of discoloration any information would be nice. Again feedback of why its as is would be helpful thanks guys!

 

If its measuring so far under that it needs to be welded and reground you're much better off buying a different one to usd. Most machine shops deal with domestic V engines that's only soon 5k-7k, where our engines hit 9k and even 10k. The process of filling and resurfacing the journals does not fair well with Honda cranks. Don't gamble on your investment, start with quality parts and do it right the first time around to avoid having to redo it a 2nd or 3rd time

 

I do agree with that doing it right the first time that is why id like help in advice on what would be best ive read that a GSR balanced crank is just as good as a ITR crank or even better. But then if im buying mew aftermarket rods/pistons kind of feels right to buy a new crank. But id like to explore my options and ofcourse most engines dont go past 7k rpm so a reweld solves it sometimes on a 50/50 chance while our engines go up way higher.

 

Would milling it down to 44.5mm on all 4 journals work at all? Just a side question and using 4 oversized bearings I know i know oversized bearings are bad but ive also heard it works possibly a myth?

 

Personally I would recommend getting a ls crank. Your still getting after market rods and pistons (you'll need ls rods) then getting your bottem end balanced and you'll be good.

That's actually what I'm running right now in my c5 block but I'm boosted.

 

Did you delete the oil squirters ? Hows the clearance on the deck hight

 

trash that paperweight!

 

I would never run that far oversized bearings in a honda. They spin too fast and it'll be your weakest link. They work fine on domestic V engines because they dont rev as high. Don't compromise the rest of your investment just to save a few bucks.

 

So basiclly my 'R' Crank is done. What do you guys recommend thats OEM as its cheaper. Save me a Buck. But if its really needed and worth it ill buy a new aftermarket one such as Golden Eagle, but i plan on just going all motor for now nothing crash like super-charging it or turbo-charging.

I believe stock cranks should hold up to 400hp which ill maybe be at half.

 

They'll hold more than 400hp.. about double that ;-)

Any LS crank or GSR crank would work just fine

 

Just make sure everything is in spec, has never had a spun bearing, and balance your rotating assembly (well worth the $200).

 

^ exactly.

 

What exactly is balancing your rotating assembly ? All the specs and if i buy new rods such as BC do they come balanced ? Or need to be

 

Balancing your rotating assembly involves mating up the complete rotating assembly with the flywheel and harmonic balancer. A machine shop will balance the counter weights to ensure smooth rotation without vibration. Basically they ensure that the crank counterweights offset the reciprocating forces created by pistons and rods - accomplished typically by removing mass from the counterweights to compensate for lightweight pistons/rods.

 

Okay so i should get a new (used) GSR crank have it balanced with my rods/flywheel/harmanic pulley ? Whats a good price for a gsr crank i was told 150. Thanks for the help again man!

 

Yup. And yeah 150 is about what they usually go for.

 

Alrighty then also is their anyway to keep the Oil squirters if i use a LS/B20 crank?

 

I believe so but honest never done it. Every GSR I've built we used the GE Plugs

 

You can bend the squirters and make them work just fine. If you don't check carefully it may fool you into thinking it's ok, however. If you do it blindly until they don't touch it could be barely any clearance and rub during running. It should be measurd to be sure all have adequate distance.

 

With the ls crank I did delete the oil squirters.