Okay fellas, I have a question about the timing, in the Hanes manual and most stuff online says cylinder# 1 TDC, both cams with the arrows facing up and the hash marks lined up. The problem I have is cam #1 (closest to firewall) does not want to stay with the arrow facing completely up it rocks to about 10-11 o'clock due to the cam lobe on cyl#3 intake pushing on the rocker. And when I align the hash marks on the two cams the up arrow on cam 1 is about 11 o'clock and the arrow on cam 2 is 12 o'clock straight up and down. I got it all together and I get a bit of vibration during idle. I went with the hash marks lined up instead of the arrows completely at 12 oclock. Wish I took pics. I rotated the crank 6 times counter clock wise and ended up with the marks back where I started. Which is more important to line up the arrows or the hash marks?

 

When u line up the cams, there is a hole on the rocker assembly on each cam that lines up with and hole in the cam. Put a 3/16" drill bit in the holes to lock the cams in place while u route the timing belt and tighten everything up. When you're finished, all marks should line up perfectly - if they dont, redo it because it's not right. The hash marks at 3:00 and 9:00 on cam gears should line up perfectly.

Btw, the cam closest to firewall is your intake cam; the other is your exhaust cam. Refer to them as such so you don't confuse yourself or ppl ur trying to get help form lol

 

Okay 3/16 pins are in but the belt is off on tooth, it's a dayco kit no. Wp184k1a. The factory honda belt and this belt are exactly the same and even the honda belt is off 1 tooth. Which way should I go?

 

Looks like even with the pins in, the exhaust cam is still turned a bit, the exhaust cam hash mark looks just above the intake came hash mark. Rock the exhaust cam back counterclockwise and the belt should line up perfectly.

 

I got it lined up. Seem that the hole on the cam holder is slightly larger than the hole in the cam itself. I had play in it and cyl#3 intake lobe starts to touch the rocker and leans the 3/16 pin ever so slightly.

 

Ps. Thanks alot. I didn't see anything on the pins in the Haynes manual lol

 

Yeah its a little bit bigger which is why I mentioned to rock it back

 

Still have some vibration at idle, not as much but I also noticed the POS eagle anchor mounts I bought are both shot hoping that's where the vibration is coming from.

On another note check out the amount of play in these exhaust valves. In the vid I say the second lobe has less drag, it actually has MORE drag. I meant to say less play.

Watch "B18b1 exhaust valve play cyl#3" on YouTube

 

Just do a valve lash adjustment

 

I might leave the valve adjustment up to a pro, still getting a ton of vibrations around 1500 rpms but my driver side anchor mount is bad and I did use cheap mounts for the rest of the mounts. my next question is how does the timing look

Watch "Timing, honda, b18b1" on YouTube

 

I wouldn't really be driving it with as loose as that is.. just my $.02

 

What's loose? I'm not following. Timing belt? Valves? PS? Alt?
It's running nice aside from the vibration. And it's worse at cold start. The most vibration occurs when left in gear on deceleration around 1800 rpm down to idle. The driver side anchor is totally blown out and like I said I did use Eagle brand some chinese ish but it didn't vibrate before the timing change. I gave every other mount a look over and all seemed to be intact after the belt change.

 

The rocker arm in your video...

 

Let's say no parts are needed, what's a typical valve adjustment run? I'm just not confident enough to do valves on my daily driver. If it SOHC I'd be more confident, I feel like checking the tappet would be easier than lobe to rocker. Are those feeler gauges I had even long enough? I'd need a good video if any are out there.

 

Did the valve adjustment with a guy who works at my local parts store. And I'm getting better mileage and a lil less noise. I wanted to double check the timing with him there and we found a problem right away, the little rocker hole opposite side of tensioner spring must have jumped out when I did the timing and fixing that took care of some of the vibration but I noticed that the bracket arm for the driver side anchor mount resting on the bottom part of the mount. It seems my engine sits a bit lower...wtf did I do? A quick inspection of the top mount, trans mount, lower rear mount and trans side anchor mounts look good. I even took the top mount out, lined it all up with a jack and reassembled. Wtf did I do?

 

Pictures.