Hello,
I have a 2000 dc2 type R I was originally looking at going all motor but from my research its alot of money for not much gain.

My question is:
Is it safe to run a low boost turbo setup with just low comp pistons and apr main/headstud bolts? I know the crank is apparently good for up to 300bhp, id only be looking to achieve around 260-270bhp is that achievable?

Thanks in advance for your input.

 

Where did you get the crank is good for 300bhp?

In short, your stock motor is fine for 300whp. Boost away

 

no need to change to low comp pistons if your goal is 260 whp.
boost it on the stock type R motor. just make sure you have supporting mods, and a very good dyno tune + tuner that knows his/her stuff.

 

Yeah these cranks will support 300hp x 3 lol.. idk where u got your information of only good for 300hp??

Boost the stock setup with a good H/G and head studs, injectors, and most importantly as mentioned a good tuner that knows what' they're doing. 8-12psi on stock Type-R internals is perfectly safe with a good tune.

 

From reading through the forums lol

 

Thanks for the info, tuner wise id be going to a Honda specialist, cost more but its worth the extra money for a good tune.

 

Im guessing you mean head gasket by H/G? If heard Honda do a 3 layer head gasket would that do? Also what size injectors would you recommend? Will 440cc be good? Thanks for the info btw

 

If you run the b18c6r I'd say maybe go for a b18c4 compression rates are lower which is handy if you want to crank the boost later. Also the s9b gearbox with that engine will have gear ratios more suited for turbo.

You'd probably make some profit by doing this to put into your turbo build. Providing you do the work yourself.

But there is no reason you cant get the gains your after with your current engine on stock internals

 

i had 440cc RC injectors on mine when it was on the usdm b18c5 with a t3/04e and made 310 hp @ 7 psi and 350 hp @ 11 psi..

 

Nice numbers was that on the stock block?

Also is the any difference between the usdm b18c5 and the ukdm b18c6? Or is it just the number?

 

it was on stock internals, was using a cometic 3 mm headgasket to bump the compression down from 10.5:1 to 9.5:1...put about 60k miles on that set-up. i dont know whether there is any significant difference between the b18c5 & b18c6....specified because the jdm itR b18c is slightly higher compression and makes a lil more in power.

 

only reason i wouldnt suggest that route is you start treating headgasket jobs as routine maintenance..

 

Yes by H/G I mean headgasket. I would recommend the je pro seal. I have used lots of cometics in the past and have had several that failed - used to swear by them but then switched to the je pro seal and have seen great results, as a stronger alternative to an OEM gasket.

As far as injectors, 440's or 450's will be sufficient for the power levels you're looking for.

 

Suggest going much higher on your injectors. They are the same price between 440 and 750 so why not just get the 750cc injectors? Give you room to grow and makes sure you don't run out. Even some ID1000...

 

Is really okay to run 'any' size injector? I've seen that advice handed out quite alot with no real back up.

I always thought they'd be designed work at a certain rate. So you'd buy they correct injector for your setup.

I know the map controls the fuelling and that but say the injector was designed to run most efficently at 80% of its capacity . But you only needed 60%. Surely it's better to have the correct injector for the application.

This may be completely incorrect so that's why I'm asking. I always thought getting the injectors was quite a crucial part of the build

 

You can make 1000cc injectors idle like stock. It all comes down to your tuner and duty cycle. I think there are some charts floating around on how to calculate how much HP you can make on various size injectors.

 

Yeah there is a chart on the actual rc injectors website. Will get link

 

Finally found the video.
They installed ID2000 injectors on a stock LS engine and it idles perfect after tuning. Ask your tuner which injectors they like to dial in but there is no harm in going bigger so you never need to re buy injectors

 

agreed. my buddy runs a stock block ITR with ID1000s, and it idles and drives fine. Hes making 265 whp currently. You just got to find a good tuner that is knowledgeable.

 

Ah sweet that seems so crazy though. I'm struggling to even find a tuner. Let alone a good one for my build.

 

ive got a dc2R with RC1000 injectors, idles fine..

 

Are you on a tight budget? If I had an unlimited budget and the original motor and trans for my R I would take the motor/trans out and build a different motor for boost.

Most ppl at the end of their boost "phase" if u want to call it that usually go back to an na setup for various reasons, easier to maintain etc. And if you ever get to that point you could sell that setup and put the stock motor back in keeping your r whole.

 

I wouldn't say a tight budget but not enough to cover a new motor and Trans etc, plus if im keeping the block stock I should be able to just take off the turbo setup n put the stock ecu in right? Also maintenance shouldn't be too bad since it's my second car and will only be used at weekend.

 

Thanks for the info, ill definitely look into the je pro seal

 

From what ive looked up the b18c6 has the same compression ratio as the jdm itr (11:1:1) where as the b18c5 is supposed to be 10:6:1