99' Accord F23A1 O2 Sensor CEL & P0401 EGR Port Cleaning Questions
Few questions i need answered by some people with experience on F23A1 4 Cylinder motors.
1. Does the throttle body need to be removed when pulling the upper intake plenum open for egr port cleaning or can it stay connected?
2. What are the torque specs for the upper intake plenum bolts?
3. Is throttle body cleaner ideal for egr valve and port cleaning and what are a few tips/pointers to ensure proper cleaning?
4. The only gaskets that are needed are the upper intake plenum gasket and egr valve gasket to do this job properly correct?
5. Are the 02 sensors upper and lower the same pitch and thread? I know they are both 4 wire connections is the only difference harness length?
6. What is the best way to re-connect a cut 02 Harness? Please keep in mind i do not have the resources to solder. Is male/female connections or finger binding the wire together and heat shrinking a viable temporary fix?
Thanks for any input. - Rick
1. Does the throttle body need to be removed when pulling the upper intake plenum open for egr port cleaning or can it stay connected?
2. What are the torque specs for the upper intake plenum bolts?
3. Is throttle body cleaner ideal for egr valve and port cleaning and what are a few tips/pointers to ensure proper cleaning?
4. The only gaskets that are needed are the upper intake plenum gasket and egr valve gasket to do this job properly correct?
5. Are the 02 sensors upper and lower the same pitch and thread? I know they are both 4 wire connections is the only difference harness length?
6. What is the best way to re-connect a cut 02 Harness? Please keep in mind i do not have the resources to solder. Is male/female connections or finger binding the wire together and heat shrinking a viable temporary fix?
Thanks for any input. - Rick
1. It can stay
2. 16 ft lbs
3. TB or Carb cleaner. Be sure to get the lower and upper parts of the "port". A brass pipe cleaning brush will help once you get the big parts out of there.....a shop vac to get the big "chunks" will help.
4. Should be
5. Same pitch but do not "interchange them".
6. Solder is best....."crimp" and heat shrink might work as a "temp" IF that is all you have. Twisting......don't even try.
EDIT: See post #20 in this thread - https://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-...-code-2674082/
2. 16 ft lbs
3. TB or Carb cleaner. Be sure to get the lower and upper parts of the "port". A brass pipe cleaning brush will help once you get the big parts out of there.....a shop vac to get the big "chunks" will help.
4. Should be
5. Same pitch but do not "interchange them".
6. Solder is best....."crimp" and heat shrink might work as a "temp" IF that is all you have. Twisting......don't even try.
EDIT: See post #20 in this thread - https://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-...-code-2674082/
Yea, if you go "universal" the up and down stream are the same.....according to a few websites I checked.
PS- That link is straight from the FAQ section
so nothing really special about it.
Not a problem at all. We all have your own styles. This isn't a right or wrong, more of an opinion situation. 
I'm not talking about using the black heat shrink. I'm talking about the butt connector type. They have this great property when they get heated up and it seals real well. It's not the same as using the heat shrink over soldered connections. They don't just shrink, it seems to help the connector bond with the wire so it doesn't slip or move. It's real tight.
Not sure if you've actually tried em before.

I'm not talking about using the black heat shrink. I'm talking about the butt connector type. They have this great property when they get heated up and it seals real well. It's not the same as using the heat shrink over soldered connections. They don't just shrink, it seems to help the connector bond with the wire so it doesn't slip or move. It's real tight.
Not sure if you've actually tried em before.
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