Hey guys,
I'm was tryint to install my Autometer Air/Fuel gauge the other day and have a question for anyone else who has used one before. Well, the gauge works, but not really. See I will start the car and it will read between lean and stoich and when I'm driving it was stay around the same level but more towards stoich. The big problem is that when I step on the gass anywhere above 2500rpm the gauge totally cuts off with only one of the leds lit up all the way on the rich side. This will happen EVERY time I step on the gass even a little bit. Just daily driving, whenever I'm accelerating, the gauge cuts off untill I take my foot off the gass then it rwads again. Obviosuly this defeats the purpose of the gauge because I'm planning on using it for when I run my NX kit and my foot will definatly be stiomped down. Does anyone know why it would do this, has this happened to you, and is there any way to fix it? Thank you in advance, cause I'm kinda pissed after spening money on it and gettting a gauge pod and now it is worthles cause it dosn't read when I need it to. -Ryan

 

does it totally shut off?
or does it just go to rich and lean?

what your describing sounds normal, the way honda maps are programmed, thats the way it acts. only going rich at wot.

 

I don't have an answer to your question, but I do have a question for you. Where did you wire your signal wire up to? Did you connect it to the solid white wire at the ecu or did you run it under the car or something. I hooked mine up and it never worked at all.

 

congratulations on your purchase of the autometer totally gay and worthless Air/Fuel ratio gauge. I made the same mistake as you and now my one desire when I start driving again is to throw that damn thing at a stop sign going 70mph. From what you are describing, it sounds like you tapped into the wrong signal wire. Double check your connections.

 

I've got an auto meter Air/Fuel gauge, though you have to know that their not really reliable. Mine bounces around everywhere. I've heard that they are only reliable at 100% thr. or that you should not trust the reading at any level.

The only reason I got mine was because I was told that I needed an air/fuel ratio gauge to have my vafc dyno tuned.

 

I have it tapped into the correct wire, the problem is that once I step on it for even the littlest time, the only LED that will light up is the one all the way to the right(rich) untill I take my foot off the gass. Dosn't work the way it said at all. -Ryan

 

where is the splice? at the ECU or by the sensor?

 

It's at the wire off the sensor, not the ecu.

On the 6th gens. there's two wires of the same color, then a white and a black wire. I don't remember if its the white or black one, though one will give you a voltage that's way to low and that one is incorrect because the gauge will only be at one bar in the red. The other one is the correct one. In dont think that the gauge should be reading too high, though if you tapped into one of the two same colored wires then that could be why.

 

ok, to all of you who do not know how an air/fuel ratio gauge works:

it takes voltage (0V-1V) from the oxygen sensor and displays which voltage its reading by lighting up the LED's, the LED's jump in 50mV increments.
The reason that your A/F ratio gauge never stops sweeping is because the oxygen sensor is constantly throwing out different voltages.Once you go WOT the computer goes to open loop mode and goes by preprogrammed maps, making it rich. THATS why it goes rich and stays there at WOT. the only way to make your A/F gauge more accurate is to install a wideband o2 sensor, which,BTW, are factory on RSX's (or so Hondata says).

i hope this helps, and by all means if anyone has anyhting to add/correct please do so.