Last summer I replaced my driver side window motor. All was good. Today, I left work, it was a balmy 35 degrees and sunny. I cracked my window open to enjoy this new spring "warmth" before I got onto the highway. When I went to merge onto the highway, I pressed the switch to go up, and for a second, nothing happened, then the window went up. No weird sound, just a half to one second delay before anything happened. When I got off the highway, I cracked open the window again, and it went down just fine. Went to put it up as I was pulling in my driveway, and nothing. Window won't go up, won't go down. Just got a click from the switch. Passenger side works just fine. When the window motor failed before, I could slide the window up and down without any real resistance, this time, I can't move it at all. Am I correct in thinking the driver side part of the switch is dead? All the wiring between the switch and the motor are good. I can take the cover off the motor and turn it with my hand just fine. I didn't try putting a multimeter on it or anything since I don't have one at my house. Any ideas? It's supposed to rain tomorrow night, so I'd like to get it fixed ASAP. I don't think there's any coupe in the junkyard that I could rob a switch from either. Could a sedan switch work?

 

Since passenger window still works, issue can be due to either:
• Faulty power window regulator/motor
• Blown under-hood Fuse No. 28 (20A) (Fuse No. 28 is for the driver’s window after it goes through the power window relay)
• Ground wire (common problem area is at door jamb )
• Faulty switch

You can test the motor by unplugging the 10-P connector for the driver’s master switch.
Only leave the jumpers in long enough to raise or lower windows, then disconnect.

To raise window:
• Connect a jumper from Grn/Wht wire terminal cavity to the Red/Yel wire terminal cavity.
• Connect a separate jumper from Blk wire terminal cavity to the Red/Blu wire terminal cavity. (There are two separate Blk wires, use the Blk wire terminal that is on the lower row between the Red/Yel and Red/Blu wires.)
• Then turn Ignition switch to ON (II) position.

To lower window:
• Connect a jumper from Grn/Wht wire terminal cavity to the Red/Blu wire terminal cavity.
• Connect a separate jumper from Blk wire terminal cavity to the Red/Yel wire terminal cavity. (There are two separate Blk wires, use the Blk wire terminal that is on the lower row between the Red/Yel and Red/Blu wires.)
• Then turn Ignition switch to ON (II) position.

If window works with jumpers, switch is probably faulty.
If window does not work with jumpers, either window regulator/motor is bad or ground wire is an issue.

There are other tests of the wires and switch if you have a multi-meter.

 

I got it to roll up last night. Haven't dared to touch the switch yet. Thanks for the info, I'll mess with it when I have time later this week.

 

Turned out that the switch was good. Rubber boot on the harness at the door jamb has come off and allowing it to ground out on the body. Total a pain in the ***. Had to pull the pin out of the door limiter thing, unplug the two harness plugs at the door(HUUUUUGE BITCH), un-pin two wires that were broken, cut the pins off, and solder on new ones. Works now, and got the rubber boot plugged back onto the door.

If I have to do that again, I'm burning it to the ground. Took me longer to fix the stupid wiring than it took for me to change BOTH lower control arms on my roommate's gf's Focus this morning.