i recently just purchased a 1997 civic ex 2 door coupe and the speedometer has the issue of going to 10-20mph when i turn car on or start the engine, USUALLy this problem resolves itself after 2 minutes, but not always, sometimes i have to drive around for about 30 minutes or more to get it to zero out, then when it does it works just fine until i kill the engine again. has anyone had this issue or can tell me what it might be? i've unplugged the vss and the gauge still has this issue when disconnected. please help!

 

Issue is most likely the speedometer circuit board. You can just replace the circuit board from another speedometer; that way you retain your odometer reading.

 

Thanks! Now my engine won't turn over good battery good alternator good starter power is there but starter solenoid doesn't even click and engine isn't getting power

 

I've had it do this to me 3 times now usually I can just try later and it turns over fine but now it won't do anything assuming its the ignition switch or loose cabling to it?

 

I know I don't post here frequently.. but just had this on my 96 Civic Coupe. The cabling from the positive battery cable to the starter, check that. On mine it was frayed, and corroded. It was causing the car not to start like you were mentioning. Also, the ignition switch in the steering column had issues back in 96-97 from what I remember. Was caused by people using too heavy of keychains/keys on them.

Also.. about your speedometer, I went through that this week. I was all ready to replace the speedometer based on all the research I found. Turns out it was the four screws that the speedometer is held into the cluster housing! Those screws actually power the speedometer. Take the cluster out and make sure those screws are touching the flexible circuit board (back of cluster) and are tightened down. After almost replacing mine with a new speedometer I find out it was just loose screws. Made sense after 19 years! Hope that helps ya!

 

Click the Fuse 15 TSB in my signature.

 

ok so i jumped the battery directly to the starter, still wont pop the solenoid, checked for fraying and cleaned the ground and positive battery terminals like hell and checked the ignition fuses and the starter signal fuses. still wont even pop the solenoid, going to try and check the 12 to the solenoid itself and the park/netural switch if it's good im assuming it's either that switch or my actual ignition switch if i have a good 12v to the solenoid itself. if not it could just be the solenoid signal cable.

 

i'm assuming all this stuff and guessing, have no real experience with this stuff, also i have taken the starter, battery, and alternator for testing at autozone, no issues. ALSO checked fuse 15, it's fine, all fuses had 12v across both test points EXCEPT for the starter signal fuse which i assume only has power when the key is in the start position.

 

so i tested the 12v signal going to the solenoid and the starter signal fuse, no power on either?

 

found a remote aftermarket starter cut relay, nevermiond cars running again it was malfunctioning.

 

These^ observations are inconsistent with each other.