'92 Hatch LS/V-T build thread
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 36
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From: North Carolina
This car has been an ongoing build for the past ~4 years or so. It all started as a '88 STD hatch I bought for $500.

It was already completely gutted and had a tired d15 with about 30hp.
I started accumulating parts for the upcoming build. I got a turbo for basically free so I started backwards planning for a motor to support the turbo. It was a custom 60-1 that came from Puerto Rico.
At this point I bought a wrecked DA Integra, swapped the suspension and brakes over to the EF and pulled the B18a1 for rebuilding.
I ended up with a Darton sleeved 84mm LS block. I also picked up a type R head for a deal to finish off the LS/VTEC.
Here are the specs for the first build:
B18a1 with Darton 84mm sleeves
Stock Type R head
Wiseco 9:1 pistons/forged rods
Edlebrock Victor X IM with 72mm TB
Tial MVR/Tial BOV
BRMS Ramhorn
ID1000/Aeromotive FPR/Aeromotive 340
Hondata S300
YS1 cable trans with a MFactory LSD
It ended up making ~345whp on 10psi. The tuner went up to 14 psi but it was spinning on the dyno so he couldn't get a good reading.




I bought an EG and decided that since I was going to pull the motor anyway, I might as well make more power.
Added to the above build list was:
Ceramic coated turbo manifold inside and out/turbo blanket/heat wrapped downpipe
Full GSC valvetrain with T1 cams in the ITR head
S80 ITR trans with Synchrotech carbon master rebuild kit and a MFactory LSD
After an issue with one of the GSC cams (which they fixed immediately) we dropped the car on the motor.







Bad cam

Replacement cam

Finished!
Now it was off to get a tune. I trailered the car to RLZ near Charlotte, NC.

The car made 519whp/315wtq on 16psi. Then leaned out and blew up driving partial throttle up a hill the first time I drove it on the street.


We pulled the motor back out and sent it off to the machine shop. They found one of the piston skirts was pretty eaten up to the point the block had to go to 85mm.
I decided to get the new pistons ceramic coated. They are heat coated on the top, have the side skirts coated with an anti-friction coating and the bottom are coated with some **** that is oleophobic.

I went to Matt Shue in VA this time for the tune and the car made about the same HP/TQ as before, but I can actually drive it around without it blowing up.
The car is nearly back together now, I'm just having an issue with the transmission that has plagued it since I've had it. Once I shift to 5th gear it will NOT go back into a lower gear unless I put it in 3rd while the clutch is depressed first. So for a 5->4 downshift I have to go clutch in, 3rd gear, 4th gear, clutch out. I can freely select between 1-4 without issue. The car doesn't even have to be on for this to hold true.
I'm going back up to Matt for a retune after I worked out some issues I was having with VTEC, and for once I actually am driving the car there, it won't be on a trailer.

It was already completely gutted and had a tired d15 with about 30hp.
I started accumulating parts for the upcoming build. I got a turbo for basically free so I started backwards planning for a motor to support the turbo. It was a custom 60-1 that came from Puerto Rico.
At this point I bought a wrecked DA Integra, swapped the suspension and brakes over to the EF and pulled the B18a1 for rebuilding.
I ended up with a Darton sleeved 84mm LS block. I also picked up a type R head for a deal to finish off the LS/VTEC.
Here are the specs for the first build:
B18a1 with Darton 84mm sleeves
Stock Type R head
Wiseco 9:1 pistons/forged rods
Edlebrock Victor X IM with 72mm TB
Tial MVR/Tial BOV
BRMS Ramhorn
ID1000/Aeromotive FPR/Aeromotive 340
Hondata S300
YS1 cable trans with a MFactory LSD
It ended up making ~345whp on 10psi. The tuner went up to 14 psi but it was spinning on the dyno so he couldn't get a good reading.




I bought an EG and decided that since I was going to pull the motor anyway, I might as well make more power.
Added to the above build list was:
Ceramic coated turbo manifold inside and out/turbo blanket/heat wrapped downpipe
Full GSC valvetrain with T1 cams in the ITR head
S80 ITR trans with Synchrotech carbon master rebuild kit and a MFactory LSD
After an issue with one of the GSC cams (which they fixed immediately) we dropped the car on the motor.







Bad cam

Replacement cam

Finished!
Now it was off to get a tune. I trailered the car to RLZ near Charlotte, NC.

The car made 519whp/315wtq on 16psi. Then leaned out and blew up driving partial throttle up a hill the first time I drove it on the street.


We pulled the motor back out and sent it off to the machine shop. They found one of the piston skirts was pretty eaten up to the point the block had to go to 85mm.
I decided to get the new pistons ceramic coated. They are heat coated on the top, have the side skirts coated with an anti-friction coating and the bottom are coated with some **** that is oleophobic.

I went to Matt Shue in VA this time for the tune and the car made about the same HP/TQ as before, but I can actually drive it around without it blowing up.
The car is nearly back together now, I'm just having an issue with the transmission that has plagued it since I've had it. Once I shift to 5th gear it will NOT go back into a lower gear unless I put it in 3rd while the clutch is depressed first. So for a 5->4 downshift I have to go clutch in, 3rd gear, 4th gear, clutch out. I can freely select between 1-4 without issue. The car doesn't even have to be on for this to hold true.
I'm going back up to Matt for a retune after I worked out some issues I was having with VTEC, and for once I actually am driving the car there, it won't be on a trailer.
Last edited by duugle; May 29, 2016 at 02:51 PM.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
Attachment 520446
Retune complete on 93 octane. Now I just have to make it hook.
edit:
I fixed the trans as well, it ended up being the shift change assembly. I went with the Speed Factory one, it pulls the shifter back into the center pretty hard, you would have to try to miss an upshift.
Retune complete on 93 octane. Now I just have to make it hook.
edit:
I fixed the trans as well, it ended up being the shift change assembly. I went with the Speed Factory one, it pulls the shifter back into the center pretty hard, you would have to try to miss an upshift.
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