My 2000 Honda Accord A/C quit working suddenly. Here are the symptoms:
1) The compressor clutch does not engage.
2) Checked voltage going to compressor. Reads 0V. Connected one volt meter lead to the wire and the other to the negative of the battery terminal for reading.
3) Condenser fan does not turn on when A/C is switched on.
4) However, both fans run when car is hot after running for a while. Fans are not the problem, I believe.
5) Checked all fuses under hood and all are fine.
6) All lights on the dashboard for switching on the A/C etc. are working fine.
Not sure what else to look for to find out why the wire going to the compressor reads 0V. I believe it should be 14V. Please correct me if I am wrong.
Any suggestions or help will be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Veej

 

Just some more follow up observations:
1) Pressure switch on high side does not show continuity.
2) Voltage between the two contacts of the pressure switch plug reads 4.7V
I did not jumper the two contacts to jump start the compressor fearing that it could cause harm.
Regards,
Veej

 

No continuity means you dont have enough refrigerant, which means you have a leak.

 

Hello holmesnmanny,
Thank you for the confirmation. I found out that the low side schrader valve is leaking. I could hear the gas leaking. Once I pushed down on the pin, it re-seated itself and stopped leaking. pressing down on the pin does not release any gas which means that the system is empty.
Question is what is a cost effective way to replace the schrader valve and refill? Any ideas will be appreciated.

 

Buy both service valves. Buy a new filter/drier(Need to add 1/2-3/4 oz of pag), replace them all. Hook up gauge set, then vacuum whole system down for at least 30 minutes. Close gauge valves...make sure you hold vacuum...confirming no leaks. Then refill. Two can should be enough. Fill by weight.

 

Hello,
Since I have to vacuum the whole system, what is the easiest way to remove and replace the two valves without buying a valve removal tool?

 

Buy the tool, it's like $5. Don't try and skimp or cheap out on ac work. Also you need to know what you're doing. If you do you'll be wondering why it's not blowing cold.

 

There is a tool you can use to replace the inner pin without even evacuating the system when its full.

However if there is no pressure left can just buy a r134a kit that has the low and high side vlaves and just unscrew your existing low side and screw on the new one.

 

So I suppose that if I buy the valve removal tool (Mastercool (81490) R134A Valve Core Remover Installer) and install new valves, I may not have to replace the drier and pull a vacuum? If this be the case then all I have to do is charge with right amount of R134. Am I also correct in assuming that no PAG oil is required.
This is the first time that I am doing this hence I want to be sure that I am on the right track before I start. Any help and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Veej

 

If the system has no pressure...that means air has gotten in there. Air has water in it, the dryers job is to absorb the water. At some point the dryer gets saturated. Air and water is the enemy of AC. Like I said...dont try and cheap out with AC work. The parts are not expensive...change the cores out, change out the dryer. Vacuum system down...make sure you repaired the leaks...recharge.

 

After asking around for pricing for a valve, drier replacement, evacuation and recharge, the approx pricing is about $200-250. Given this fact, I am better off doing it myself by buying a manifold gauge, vacuum pump for about $100, parts about $50. Hence a savings of $150. But honestly, I have never done A/C work, so I am looking for help on this forum from you experts.
One question that I have is how much oil to put into the system? Since the gas leaked form the schrader valve, I can see oil around it. Although I cannot tell how much oil leaked out. Unfortunately, I do not have the facility to completely dump all the oil from the system and start fresh.
Any suggestions?

 

Replace the two valves. Remove old drier. Add like 3/4 oz pag to drier. Install drier. Install gauge manifold, attach vacuum ump to yellow line. Vacuum system down, for at least 30 minutes. Close manifold gauge valves. You should not lose any vacuum. Let it sit for 30 minutes. Should be tight. Remove vacuum pump.

Add can of r134, puncture seal, then open can. Now crack yellow line let a lil 134 out, gets rid of air in fill line. Open both red and blue valves allow pressure to equalize. Close high pressure valve, leave low pressure open. Start engine, jump out low pressure relay. Compressor should be running.

The can should be getting cold, indicating 134 going into system. As can empties, the pressures should be going up on low and high gauges. When can is empty, close low pressure valve. Remove can, install new can. Bleed air, open low pressure valve. Continue filling until full(there's a sticker saying how much 134 till full)

 

Hi Tim,
Thank you very much for the detailed instructions. Two questions that come to mind:
1) Do I have to use a Honda recommended PAG oil or any generic kind is fine?
2) Are there any 'O' rings that need replacement during drier(two connections of rigid tubing that are 'in' and 'out') and schrader valves replacement?
Regards

 

New drier will come with new seals. I "think" hondas use pag 46. I am not at home now though to check for sure.