So I just bought my first car, a 99 Civic Si. Anyways I love it, it's a great fun little car. To get to the point, at every red light I feel like I wanna red line the thing. Its so fun it's addicting. Not that I actually red line it at every light, in fact I've never even hit the limiter. But I was wondering, is it bad to red line the car? Every time I do it I justify it by thinking "Well, VTEC is there for a reason, right?"

 

Keep up on your maintenance, keep the car healthy, fluids changed, valves adjusted etc. And redline away. Taking an engine past redline/limiter is where problems arise, on a factory or otherwise sufficient tune and with proper maintenance you will be good to go.

 

It's completely stock other than an exhaust. What about full throttle? Is it harmful to go full throttle? I usually do once a day.

 

Your not going to hurt your car by driving it, the way you would hurt or break something is by failing to replace broken or worn out parts and neglecting basic maintenance and then beating on the car. If you take care of it how you should, the car will do its part no matter how you use the go pedal.

 

Cool. Thanks man. What do you drive?

 

99 EBP SI, all motor B20vtec

 

What's an EBP as compared to an EM1?

 

Oh wait that stands for electric blue pearl doesn't it?

 

All US spec99-00 SI are chassis code EM1. Ebp=
Electron blue pearl.
Just the color

 

Yep just the paint. I started with the B16A2 like yours,
Ended up making around 155hp to the wheels with bolt ons and a tune and got bored quick. Sent my B16 head off for porting and a rebuild with Supertech Valvetrain components then built a 12.5:1 compression B20b shortblock and made myself a stout hybrid. Currently makes around 230who and 160tq.

 

Yeah mine's Milano Red. You've got s B20 swap?

 

B20 block/B16 VTEC head

 

I didn't know they fit together like that. So what's the benefit of a B20 block? And what car is it out of? Sorry I'm a noob lol.

 

Same principle as an LS/VTEC it's not a direct swap but fairly simple of done right. B20 is a non VTEC CRV engine and the benefit is displacement and torque. My full bolt on B16 made 110tq to the wheels, and only 155hp. My current B20vtec has made over 230hp and 160tq to the wheels. In short, the benefit is power.

 

Oh that's really cool man. Yeah I've just got a stock b16. Never dynoed but it's been taken care of really well so I assume it still puts out at least factory horsepower. I've got an exhaust but that's it. I plan mods eventually but I'm not sure which direction to go.

 

Factory your under 130hp and 100ft/lbs torque. I think mine put down 127hp/95tq if I recall. They're fun cars but for as heavy as they are (for an older civic) they could use a power boost. Very reliable though, my stock B16 block is nearing 280k miles in a friends car 100% stock and beat on very thoroughly.

 

You're talking about to the wheels, correct?

 

Yes, we only use chassis dynos at the shop so I've never dyno'd the engine outside of the car.

 

Alright, that's cool man. The only problem I seem to have with the car is intermittent stalling. I've changed the ignition switch and distributor. I'm stumped.

 

My current build goes 12.50s at 110mph in the 1/4 mile on sticky tires and I have a full interior, nothing gutted, stereo, and even some extra sound deadening material to make the cabin more quiet. It's heavy for an older Civic (mine weighs 2685#s)
Best I ever ran with my B16 with bolt ons and drag radials was low 14s and stock with an intake and street tires was like 15.20 in the 1/4. She has come a long way. Currently in the process of boosting over the winter and shooting for 11.50 index this spring.

 

Any CEL or thrown codes? When does it stall?

 

Your build sounds really cool man. Good luck with that. And yeah, I've got a p0420 code for the catalytic converter. And I've got one for a small exhaust leak in the manifold. Hairline crack. But I don't think that's the cause of my problem. It stalls randomly when I drive down the road. Its only completely stalled on me five times in total. Every other time it kinda just turns off and turns back on really quick. I'd compare it to flicking a light switch on and off. Its like that. But it has stalled completely and in the case that it does I have to wait about 2-5 minutes before it turns back on.

 

Have you looked at/changed your spark plugs recently? Bad O2 and exhaust issues can cause it to run really rich with fuel and can easily foul a plug or two. Also have you or anyone done a recent compression test on the engine?

 

Check the basics too, change the fuel filter, clean up old dirty injectors, etc. Engines are very simple, electronics aside, and you only need compression, fuel, air, and spark. Reading your spark plugs and a simple compression test can go a long way in giving you info about how your engine is running.

 

Brand new NGK plugs and wires along with the distrubutor. No compression test has been done.