So this weekend i replaced my trans. And everything seems to be working correct except the clutch pedal pressure, and shifting gears.

i changed the clutch also with the exedy oem replacement and it just seems to soft compared to before it was changed. We bleed the clutch till there was no more air in the line even a couple extra times to be sure.

now with the shifting gears, it goes into every gear but it is very clunky and there is like a pause before each gear. This i have no idea what it could be. Could the shift cables use adjusting? If so, how do you do that? Is it wearing anything in the trans?

Oh and its an f22b2 5spd replaced with the same trans

 

Make sure clutch free play is about a half to an inch by adjusting the master cylinder push rod in or out and then locking the locknut when you are finished.

Also bleed it completely through again.

 

I will definitely look into that. Should it be that soft?

Also with the shifting issue i have, do you have any idea what that could be i know it was very descriptive but it seems like its got a gate to bypass before going into gear but its weird because it happens in first every time and any other gear when the car is off and i put it in a gear for lets say a hill. Could that be in the trans? That would be very disappointing. Something with the cables we didnt put back together right?

 

Granted you might not be interested in doing so, but my trans feels the same, and its hooked to a H22 and shifting where I...ahem, want to shift, is very difficult, and it feels very gated as well. If you run WOT from first through third, would the transmission not want to let you shift from 1-2 and 2-3?

 

I havent got that high in rpms yet due to the fact im still in the clutch break in period.

 

Too much free play will make for harsher gear shifting and you might be imagining the soft clutch feel, no offense.

 

Well, the ideal is ~ 1" of play at the end of the pedal, from full extension to feeling it firm-up. What happens if there is no play, or a negligible amount?

And accordion, if the clutch is engaged, its engaged. The issue with clutch break in is severity of engagement. I'm not suggesting shifting aggressively, rather taking it to redline at most-throttle and then quickly pushing in the clutch, and seeing if it will want to change gear. After you determine how it wants to shift, just ease the clutch back in.

 

You say the pedal is soft, are you referring to how it engages when you let it out? Does the travel of the pedal seem to be different then before? Or then engagement point?

 

the clutch is all fine. it was just a different stiffness then it was before. the pedal feel i have now is a lot softer almost like the new hondas but its just something i have to get use to but the only problem i am having now is with getting in gear from inside the car. it seems like it takes a lot more force to get into first gear then the others when rolling itll seem to go smother but still makes no sense

 

Different pressure plates probably have different degrees of resistance.

Doesnt sound like you adjusted your clutch free play.

 

I was not aware of this how do I do that and since I havent done anthing yet is it going to mess up anythi h with the new clutch?

 

Adjusting free play is basically ensuring that pressure is off the throw-out/release bearing when the clutch is out. Push the driver's seat back, put a mat down next to the door sill, and get down on your knees and get up under there where you can see the pushrod off the clutch pedal to the firewall. You'll see a locknut on the rod right where it threads into the bracket pinned to the pedal. Loosen the lock nut, its a 12mm IIRC and use bare fingers or small pliers to turn the rod. You want the pedal itself to have an inch of free-play, from the forward stop to actually feeling the system moving the pressure plate springs.

It won't do anything to the new clutch if you adjust it properly. The end result is adjusting the resting position of the fork.