Iknow theres diff test to check which could be at fault just want others opinion also. For like a week my battery light has been on along with brake lamp and all doors open light or whatever ha but today it started up drove about a mile then slowly shut off sounded like engine was still slightly running but all lights were off. I jump started it and drove it a mile back home. Any input? Tia

 

It is your Alternator. Just had this in a 98 accord. Now in my daughters 2001 accord. there is very little room to get alt out. in the 98 I was able to just get it in. my daughters 2001 is in the garage and looks like I gonna have to pull the cooling fan to get it in. Royal PITA
both cost 147.00 for new replacement not through Honda. Good Luck

 

Verify you have no blown fuses.
Verify the battery cable terminal connections are clean and tight.
Verify the battery can hold a full charge,
Verify battery voltage before startup, and while engine is running(warmed up).

 

Yeah iwas kinda guessing it would be alternator just because I've been having these issues for a while like my lights dimming while using my window switch but just picked up an alternator but will check fuses and voltage before I go through and replace it. Thanks I'll post the voltage as soon as possible

 

That Alt is a pain in the butt to replace. on my 98 4 door was able to remove and replace without removing cooling fan hard but possible. My daughters 2001 coupe I had to remove the cooling fan and that was even a tight fit with it out of the way. GL and be prepared to do some cursing while changing it.

 

Any advice on getting the belt loose? I tried using a 14mm wrench on the tensioner and the tensioner moves but not enough to remove the belt? The nut or bolt on the tensioner doesn't loosen it just moves tensioner is this correct? Also ihad went ahead and removed fan anyways since I changed out my mounts today it had to come out the way anyways doesn't seem difficult to remove the alt ijust couldn't figure out how to get belt off

 

You need to use a pice of pipe over the 14 inch wrenhe for leverage. if you have a floor jack I used the handle from that to fit over the wrench.

 

I do have one thanks for the info I'll try it out and let you know how it goes.

 

Something isnt right. Whats your year and model

 

just to let you know, I had to use the open end side of the wrench on the tension nut the piece from floor jack I used as a breaker bar would not fit over the other end of wrench.

 

1998 exv6 4dr

 

Fasure thanks

 

What do you mean?

 

If you had the 4 cylinder they come with a tensioner that is easy to adjust.

 

Oh okay thanks for info anyways appreciate it

 

The vehicle's battery is for starts(connected directly to and powers the starter motor and solenoid), running accessories with the ignition in "ACC" position, storing alternator(driven by engine and belt unit that creates voltage) voltage output and acting as a buffer for alternator voltage (to prevent damage to electronics). When the car is running the majority of the electrical current and voltage comes from the alternator.

ATTENTION: If you have a very low battery reading, under 5 volts or so, DO NOT attempt to jump start or charge the battery as it could have whats called a "shorted cell", the battery could explode, let a professional handle the car's charging system issue or replace the battery. ALSO it may seem obvious but batteries contain a very high level of potential energy (several hundred amps) and placing anything conductive, yes, like a wrench, between the two terminals can be extremely dangerous, be careful.

If your car is running and the battery light is on, its pretty much a 90% chance your battery died. The battery light however is technically a charging system light and illuminates when the variable voltage of the electrical system drops below a certain point so the issue could be the alternator itself, the battery, wiring, connections or other electrical system components. The alternator is designed to maintain 12.2 volts (Volts-The p.s.i. of electricity, (force or pressure)) throughout the electrical system and at the battery terminals, however it is also designed to put out more than 12.2 volts when the engine is running, 14.4 in total system voltage to be exact. An electronic device called a multimeter is a device used to take readings of electrical circuits and components, they can be fairly expensive but are a good tool to have. The cheaper ones will do for most of what were talking about as we're just taking voltage readings. Placing a multimeter on the battery ground and the battery positive terminals should yield roughly 12.2 volts with the engine off, if so you've got a battery that should not cause the battery light to illuminate, (due to the complexity of a battery's makeup a 12.2 volt reading does not 100% mean the battery is fully operational so we will continue to diagnose). Thus far you have 12.2 volts at the battery, your car starts and you have a battery light. You are looking at a 99.9% chance of a bad alternator situation, especially if symptoms include dimming headlights, gauges etc. To test more: With engine running @2000rpm a multimeter should show 14.4 volts at the battery's positive and negitive terminals, this should verify that you have an operational charging system and alternator , if not your problem is either an alternator, in wiring or in connections(voltage drop,excessive resistance) OR, a bad battery. To test, try moving the multimeter's positive test lead to the positive output terminal on the alternator, you should have 14.4 there, if you do then your problem is in wiring, connections or your battery and not the alternator.

I'm pretty sure Autozone and AdvanceAutoParts will test your alternator for you but they use a countertop tester that requires your alternator to be brought in hand to the store.

 

Just replaced alternator wasn't too difficult or time consuming at all, had a hard time getting belt off an on with 2 wrenches since the spot was so tight. Ihavent reconnected battery yet bet ichecked it and its at like 11.8Xv but says the battery is good. Should I be okay to start it like this or should itake it to get charged ?

 

I saw somewhere a set of open end wrenches specifically made for battery work that were fiberglass in the center, might be overkill for the average person, but for someone who does a lot of electrical system work genius idea

 

A battery @ 11.xx volts should and most likely will start the car, cars have 12 volt electrical systems and the starter motor is no exception but as long as your not scary low on battery voltage there is no harm in trying to start the car. Once started, let it run for 10-15min and it should back up to 12-12.2. If you have a meter, throw it on the battery's terminals right after starting the car, look for 14.4 volts, with a new alternator you should be there.

 

turn on a couple of things while it's running, high current like the blower motor and the headlights, then check the running voltage, it should compensate for it, and be around 14 volts. The issue with checking an unloaded alternator is it may show good voltage but be able to produce only a small amount of current

 

Okay thanks for all the info guys really appreciate it and I'll try starting and check voltage ijust didn't wana mess anything up

 

While looking under the hood of my 92 Accord with the engine running I noticed a "steady glowing light" inside the alternator. It's not making any noise nor have I noticed any other problems with the lights or battery. Anyone have any suggestions or had this problem?

 

Volts were at 11.60 and car would not start. Jump started and with car on volts were only at 13.90. Ran it for awhile and with car off volts went down to 11.90. But then car strted right up but would not go over 13.90?
Also my car had been sitting for about a week and half and when started a bunch of white smoke came out the exhaust??

 

Your battery might just be bad.

Those numbers arent too concerning in terms of the alternator.

 

Ihad just got a new battery not too long ago so that'll suck if battery got messed. Those numbers are with new alternator installed. Any info on the white smoke? Should ibe concerned