I'm posting my experience AND ALSO THE FIX that worked for me. I've seen so many posts like this on this site and other Honda Club sites. It's long but the beginning was my original post from another site and the followup. I hope this helps other as it did me. Saved a expensive repair bill!
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I've seen "similar" messages but this has a twist...
2000 Honda Odyssey
215k miles - 2 new timing belts, 2 new water pumps each at 100 - 120k miles
Ignition switch replaced within the last two years - as part of Preventative Maintenance (PM)
Never any electrical issues - proactively replaced the ignition switch -PM
Regularly run injector cleaner in the fuel system as part of PM.

I was driving (engine at operating temperature) and all of a sudden the van sputters and dies like I turned off the key. I coasted off the road - immediately tried to restart the engine - cranks but no start - like it doesn't get spark.
In the couple of minutes debating what to do (about 3-5 minutes) I try again. Same results - no go.
Wait another 5-7 minutes - try again - This time after a couple of cranks...it sputters but no start.
Contemplating possible issues - another 10 minutes pass - try again - STARTS - just like it never had a problem. Rev the engine - no hesitation or sputter...runs like a champ!
Heading for the Honda Dealer and about 2 miles later...same thing - same results. Try to immediately start - no go / wait about 8-10 minutes - engine sputters but no start - wait another 5 minutes STARTS like a champ and runs perfect.
Get to the dealer, friend is Master mechanic - puts on code reader - no codes // puts on laptop with engine monitoring software. Has me drive on highway slow - fast while he monitors engine - NO errors or issues are shown.
He checks the ignition switch - no issues
Tells me there is nothing he can do immediately - gives me choice to drive and see if it happens again.
I put on several hundred miles for the next 1-1/2 weeks NO ISSUES.
Next day - repeat performance but this time stalls/shuts down at a Stop sign (other shut-downs were "under load")
By now I've got the timing down but to validate it I attempt immediately to start - no start
Wait 5 - sputters
Wait 10 - starts right up and I drive home
Leaving it in driveway with the ice and snow here in the PA northeast I don't want to get in a bad situation on the side of the road.
Tonight because of the cold weather and just for giggles - went out to the van to start it and warm the engine and make sure the battery wasn't frozen. Started as soon as the starter hit the flywheel! Went inside for about 7 minutes and went to shut off the van...but when I got out the van must have decided to shut off itself. I tried immediately to start it - NO GO...laughed and went inside for warm coffee.

Honda mechanic friend is long term Honda Master Mechanic and has never seen this issue before were waiting "x" number of minutes for a restart and then won't reoccur for several hundred miles.Tests produce no codes, nothing shows up on the laptop that monitors the engine.
Offered to hook up a Fuel pressure gauge and drive it for several days to monitor the pressure but said typically the fuel pump works or it doesn't work.

Any ideas or similar results?
Thanks in advance - Jim

THE FIX -
OK so here's the update - Van is ALL BETTER! My next step was YouTube for this video:

It just so happened that today the ambient temperature was about 40 degrees F while the day before was 10 degrees. I remembered that the days the van was running ok where warmer days so when I got home from work today I just wanted to hit the starter to see if it confirmed my suspicion that the warmer ambient temperature would make the van start. Sure enough the engine took as soon as the starter gear hit the flywheel. After that I knew I had it licked!
It took about 30 minutes and more than half of that was trying to find my soldering gun and battery charger. The cold sapped the battery and me cranking it didn't help.
Attached is the actual image of my relay board...scary how much it look exactly like the board in the video...the defective solder joint that is.
Hope this helps someone else!





Bad solder joint on the top<br/>Should look like the one on the bottom.<br/>Resoldered...GOOD TO GO!

 

Glad you got it running. I had an old car do that to me once, turned out to be the O rings. Had an oil pan full of coolant. Scary though when a car just stops running when you're driving down the road.