I have a 94 accord f22b1 I'm using as a daily driver (for work) but also making it my "hobby car" to have fun on the weekends. I currently have an AEM cold air, larger plug wires this far. I'm in need of exhaust bad, it's falling off. Exhaust wise, I've heard magna flow, apexi ws 2, invidia, bosal, greedy. What others should I look for and best money for what I want. Again, money isn't an option however I want it to last and I'm not going to the track nor do I want a super loud one, nice tone. Looking just get little more power with bolts ons at this point. As far as headers I'm stuck on DC??

 

I don't think that you'll see any benefits from a big exhaust or a straight through muffler on an internally-stock F22. My inclination would be the WS2 as a balance between backpressure reduction and driveability. But people have their brand preferences, you might like how a Magnaflow sounds better, there should be countless exhaust sound videos on youtube. You will of course see the best gains by replacing the cat with a freer-flowing unit. Auto parts stores can order ss high-flow cats for ~ $100 and a muffler shop can weld flanges into it.

The larger plug wires won't have done anything unless your original wires needed replacement. Unless you are going to turbocharge or modify the engine to run some truly impressive compression, stock/factory ignition components will be all you need, so long as you don't buy the parts store's cheapest brand.

I'm working on finding a Prelude airbox for my h22 swapped CD5, that airbox feeds the 220hp Type-S Prelude just fine and I can get a $15 wix filter from Oreilly's that filters better than, and flows just as good as a cone/pod filter. The Prelude box also draws air through that convenient hole to the fresh air well behind the front bumper. It was a cold-air intake from the factory. But I won't deny that the red/blue pipe in the engine bay looks sweet. B) Stick a dryflow or a properly maintained K&N on the end of the pipe and you'll be fine.

As mediocre a reputation that most h22 headers have, I doubt you'll find an affordable F22 header that's properly tuned, but it will look nicer than the factory manifold. Just be aware that there is anecdotal evidence of unshielded headers cooking alternators.

 

The lack of responses is because this question gets asked nearly every other day.

Perform a search before making a thread and you'll likely find that all of the information and recommendations are already out there.

 

Yea plug wires needed replaced is only reason. As far as exhaust, your telling me it doesn't matter what I put on it? I thought opening the pipe size will help with minimal power gains. and of course everyone talks about doing I/H/E for bolt on power. I've heard putting either a H22 or H23 head on the f22 block will also gain much power but getting it tuned will be he tricky part. So I assume if I went that route a F22b1 header wouldn't work anyway. For what I want to do right now, like I said, i want little more umph when Im driving.

 

19accord97, I was totally aware of that and did a quick search but wither didn't look enough or didn't quite find what I was liking for. Definitely try again though.

 

I would think that any gains a H22 head would provide would be in the range above 6000 rpms, so unless you have the cams for that, want to turn those rpms, have the ECU to allow that to happen, then swapping heads would not gain all that much. Perhaps flowing an F23 head and fitting a better cam might be a better option.

 

If you can get your hands on a good H22/H23 transmission for a reasonable price, the more sporty gearing will give you more "oompf" per $ than the "power adders" you're talking about.

after that you can spend some more time reading dyno threads and build threads to find engine upgrades to do.

 

As for a header, look for the eBay units with longer primaries and shorter secondaries than the traditional ones. They SHOULD make a little more power. Look carefully as the two are very similar. Mod the collector to be 2.5", add whatever 2.5" piping and muffler you desire. Your intake tube should be around 3". The factory prelude air boxes are pretty good, though, but have a slight risk of hydro lock(Ask me how I went fr an f22b2 to an f23a1...) in deep puddles. An F23a1 intake manifold is a nice gain, too, but you'll need to get an IACV adapter. I noticed a LARGE gain from 5000rpm with just a header and the F23 intake.

Now that all that crap is bolted on, TUNE it. You'll get a slightly noticeable gain with just throwing parts at it, but the real benefit and gain comes from tuning.

A shorter geared trans is beneficial, but choose your gear ratios wisely. IMO, the 97-01 Prelude base trans is just about perfect. Mfactory has a nice calculator for comparison.

https://honda-tech.com/honda-prelude-4/prelude-h-series-transmission-codes-ratios-master-list-2548441/

 

If you're going to go through a trans swap, you might as well look for one of the LSD-equipped units like the m2b4, and then swap the 5th gear over from your stock trans.

And about the exhaust, my intended message was that you dont need a big exhaust for a single can engine. This has to be a DD for you so look for a more balanced exhaust that isn't going to drone at 3000 rpm.

 

A trans swap isn't far off seeing mine feels like it's slipping so it's could be in the near future. The exhaust is definitely next on the list with out any other mods for the simple fact I sound like a monster truck with no exhaust. Tachi, even the drone at 3000 won't kill me, I'm used to somwrhing similar from my eclipse days. As the DD part, I can park it and work on it as I feel fit since I have a truck. I'm simply toying with it as a hobby and driving it on weekends or as I previously stated to and from work (30miles round trip). I did forget to mention I have anothe f22b1 motor I had to use the head off of but the rest is still there so that will be my platform I start building then swap it once completed.