So it seems I burnt a valve on my 2001 Honda Accord ex f23a4 engine and doing the math it's almost better to replace the entire engine with a jdm f23a http://www.jdmenginedepot.com/jdm_engine_details/117/f23a-accord-98-odyssey-acura-23cl-obd2-engine-jdm-f23a

Was wondering since my engine is a ulev engine is there anything I will have to do to make it work ? Something I may need to buy on the side. Kinda wanna do this in one shot since I need my car back asap. Thanks in advance.

 

JDM f23 should be ulev. all f23 design ultra low... u might need JDM ecu

 

has anyone else done this swap?
is it a headache?
mostly plug and play?
any advice would be appreciated

 

Take old engine out. Transfer everything over to the F23A from the F23A4. Put back in car. Done.

 

A4 is just different enough from the A1, it has a different intake/head/exhaust.
IIRC JDM only had F23A(same as US A1) and F23A5(non VTEC).

 

So it's more difficult to do the swap?? Or is it a matter of swapping over the stock parts off the old engine? Trying to do this as clean as possible
Thanks in advance

 

Head is the exact same. Cross reference part numbers. Exhaust manifold is different, ecu is different, some sensors, and California cars got a different upper intake(not sure what's different exactly but it has a different part number). Thing to note, the only difference between the VTEC and non VTEC F23 heads is the lack of VTEC components, exhaust side of the valve train, and the camshaft. Everything is the same. I have multiple OEM parts diagrams with numbers printed for all three engines as part of some research. Check majestic Honda parts' website.

 

A4 has smaller ports, verify there will not be a port mismatch on the exhaust manifold to head. IIRC the exhaust manifold/downpipe uses a different junction than the A1.

 

I put in a f23a into it to replace my f23a4. car runs good.. when you guys said that i had to swap over the intake manifold does that meant the whole thing behind the engine head or just the top part where the egr valve goes on'? cause my guy just did the top part.. also sometimes when i come to a stop my car idles real low close to shutting off but never does, i wait like 10 seconds and goes right back to idle normal,what could that be?
thanks again

 

anyone

 

May need to adjust idle, base timing, etc. How are your grounds?

 

grounds seem to be in order, timing is fine. today after i changed my front rotors and after i went and took of the egr valve and cleaned it with some brake cleaner (had issues with the egr in my last engine) and when i went to take my car for a spin it idles even lower now when i come to a stop.. could it be that? did my egr suck up some brake cleaner and its going thru the car? or may it be my idle control valve in the back is messed up or dirty
thanks in advance

 

how is your swap doing?

 

Maybe vacuum leak?

 

Can you tell any difference between the 2 engines?