Hi guys!

Im still in the middle of my build. Hope i could post pics in time. Meanwhile, here's the details :

Skunk2 tuner 2
Golden eagle cam gears
Supertech valve springs and retainers
Ported and polished head with valve angle job
Skunk2 IMF
70mm T/B skunk2
CTR dizzy
Programmable ecu
81.5 Arias piston 12.5cr
Eagle rods
ARP bolts
Lightened flywheel
LSD 4.4 tranny

Im hoping to reach mid 13s or less on a quarter with full interior and street tires on a ef9 civic hatch. What do you think? Please enlighten me more. Engine swap is not an option and all motor only.

Im also considering in balancing my crank... Would it have a big impact?

Thanks!

 

Honestly you probably don't have the power or traction off the line to make that happen, I could see you doing 14's but 13's is going to be asking alot and would likely take a toll on your trans an LSD.
Once you dyno your build and get your car weighed then you can get a pretty good idea of what your car should be capable of in the 1/4. just off a glance on your specs you should probably be around 2200lbs running weight and 170+WHP which should land you in the low 14's unless you use slicks or, loose weight, add power(IE:Nitrous).


as for getting your crank balanced it will add stability under revs and is beneficial but unless your get your crank lightened I wouldn't expect a massive improvement.

 

My EG coupe (2620 lbs w/ me in it) Did 15.0 w/ a Bone stock B16A2, bolt ons and street tuned on street tires. I was cutting 2.2 60's. I could se MAYBE a high 13 if you drive the hell out of it.

 

Yeah... I have a pair of M/T slicks with me. Im hoping against hope that with the use of slicks maybe i can achieve 13s. I might also consider lightening by the use of fiber doors and hatch. With my 12.5 cr pistons would it make a difference if i use crower 403s on? My aim is only on the 13s barrier. Thanks man!

 

In all honesty I think you will have no problem running 13's with that set up on a straight up street tire, no drag radial......If you can drive....

really??? 0_o

On my olddddd setup circa 2005 in my 95 civic hatch:
95 civic cx gutted half back, no cutting whatsoever ~ 2,250 lbs with me in it.

94' b18c1 swap with roughly 150k+ miles (BONE STOCK INTERNALLY, NO HEAD HEAD NOR BLOCK WORK AT ALL)

-skunk2 OG Version 1 intake manifold
-generic ebay 2.5" sri
-OEM Honda CTR N1 crank pulley
-exedy stage 1 clutch w/ 7lb flywheel
-tsudo replica type r headers (2.5" collector)
-tsudo n1 style catback
-AEM fuel rail w/ AEM fuel pressure regulator (stock injectors)
-untuned on a chipped p28 with some generic map factory redline(8,200rpms)

15" konig helliums wrapped with Nitto NT450 tires (basic all season performance tire)

I ran consistently low 14's - high 13's. best time on that basic setup was 13.8 .....i never power shifted that car ever.

Very Very fun reliable setup.


edit: the more i think about it if you dont hit 12's on a drag radial, you cant drive lol. That's a high compression built motor with decent sized cams, you should be low ~200whp. not to mention in a light car.

 

^^^ 400 pounds lighter and a GSR sounds about right. The extra displacement and HP plus less weight I could see shaving almost a second off. If I had run on some slicks and cut some better 60's I could have possibly seen 14.50's.

When I say bone stock B16 I mean BONE stock. All I had was a DC header, SRI and exhaust.

Either way, 13's are possible but it will still take some seat time.

 

What's your tranny situation, is it a LSD GS-R gearbox?. Regardless, You should have no problem at all hitting your target ET on street tires with your current build. I had a much more mild B16 setup in a heavier EG hatch and went consistent 14.30s @ 98-99
(B16A2: Stock head, ITR cams, stock short block, stock fuel system, Tri-y header,
3" AEM Intake w/ Vstack, 2.5 catless exhaust, chipped P28 on Crome, stock LSD S80 trans) I was at about 2550#s race weight and on 15" Rota slips with Toyo proxy street radials. Setup made 166whp/109wtq. I would imagine your EF is a couple hundred pounds or so lighter and your built Block prolly makes a good 25-35 more hp than mine did so I think your goals are well within reach. As for the balanced crank comment. I wouldn't worry about that unless you were planning to tear the engine down anyway or if there was some sort of problem that needed to be addressed and even in those instances I would balance the entire rotating assembly. Just my .02 cents. Good luck with the build!

 

Thanks man! With that opinion you shared i am now contented with my build. Hopefully everything will fall into place. I will stick with my tuner 2 rather than considering to shift with 403s. And my tranny is Yxxx series lsd. And it will pair with exedy tri.puck clutch to transfer the power to the ground.

Cheers!

 

true true. but i think a built b16 in a light ef chassis is more than capable of mid 13s even on a street tire.

 

I had a 13.98 run/pass with BUILT B16A CTR pistons engine tuned in BRACKET class kinda sucked MOVED me to a different class.

 

So now i need a BETTER Helmet snell2005 and a SAE fire jacket or suit just to go FROM 14.00 to 13.98sec ET bracket racing.

 

FASTER then 13.99 in BRACKET CLASS /SLICKS allowed up to 23" tire i believe.?

 

Now i gotta sand bag bracket racing.

 

Lols. Too bad for you... but the consolation there is you shaved a little time.

Its time to upgrade your engine i suppose so that firesuit and all are worth it. Kudos man!