Sway Bar Links and Bushing questions 2000 EX v6
How many of the bushings do I need to get? Is this the correct amount for a honda accord ex 2000 v6 two door?
4x for the Stablizer Sway bar bushings
4x strut bushings
4x Sway bar links?
Would after market parts be okay for this job?
Also how hard of a job is this? I had a friend help me do the struts, but we didn't do the bushings. Totally did not know to replace them at the same time. We are noobs but managed to do it from youtube videos. This time I am going solo though, and i am not mechanically inclined as he is. Hes moved away so he can't help this time around.
4x for the Stablizer Sway bar bushings
4x strut bushings
4x Sway bar links?
Would after market parts be okay for this job?
Also how hard of a job is this? I had a friend help me do the struts, but we didn't do the bushings. Totally did not know to replace them at the same time. We are noobs but managed to do it from youtube videos. This time I am going solo though, and i am not mechanically inclined as he is. Hes moved away so he can't help this time around.
Sounds about right.
Drop links can be a pain if the stud spins. Usually there is an outer set of flats to hold the stud, or there may be a hex drive needed to hold the stud center while removing the nut.
Blast the fasteners with Kroil, PB Blaster etc and let them soak for a while to allow penetration. WD40 is NOT a lubricant, it is a solvent(cleaner).
When doing the sway bars raise the front or rear and do the front or rear links/bushigns as a pair, do not try to do LEFT/RIGHT as this will put the sway bar in tension. And will make removing/installing the links very difficult.
While you have the sway bars disconnected, do the shock bushings so you are not fighting the control arms.
Aftermarket parts are fine as long as a quality name brand is used.
Drop links can be a pain if the stud spins. Usually there is an outer set of flats to hold the stud, or there may be a hex drive needed to hold the stud center while removing the nut.
Blast the fasteners with Kroil, PB Blaster etc and let them soak for a while to allow penetration. WD40 is NOT a lubricant, it is a solvent(cleaner).
When doing the sway bars raise the front or rear and do the front or rear links/bushigns as a pair, do not try to do LEFT/RIGHT as this will put the sway bar in tension. And will make removing/installing the links very difficult.
While you have the sway bars disconnected, do the shock bushings so you are not fighting the control arms.
Aftermarket parts are fine as long as a quality name brand is used.
Just got my strut rod bushings. Not even sure if that's what its called on a honda. How do I put this together? But before that I noticed with this brand, acdelco, the bushings are two different sizes. And they are pretty damn big.

The right blue ones are about 5cm bigger than the left ones. You can see it in this other picture clearer.

How would I put these together? Heres what I did.
1) Washer
2) Black Spacer Thingy
>>>> Small Bushing With Ridge facing up.
>>>>>>> Bushing Holder Thing (not sure what its called) Goes In Between I think
>>>> Larger Bushing With Ridge Facing Down
3) Washer
4) Spacer (Probably have to reuse from old honda after taking out bushings, Didn't come with one)
5) Washer
6) Spacer
>>>> Small Bushing With Ridge facing up.
>>>>>>> Bushing Holder Thing (not sure what its called) Goes In Between I think
>>>> Larger Bushing With Ridge Facing Down
7) Washer
Is this correct? Or should I pair up the smaller and larger bushings. Maybe larger on bottom, and smaller on top?

This is an image of a 97 accord. This is the picture I am going off on. Not sure if they are similar as my 2000 ex accord though.

The right blue ones are about 5cm bigger than the left ones. You can see it in this other picture clearer.

How would I put these together? Heres what I did.
1) Washer
2) Black Spacer Thingy
>>>> Small Bushing With Ridge facing up.
>>>>>>> Bushing Holder Thing (not sure what its called) Goes In Between I think
>>>> Larger Bushing With Ridge Facing Down
3) Washer
4) Spacer (Probably have to reuse from old honda after taking out bushings, Didn't come with one)
5) Washer
6) Spacer
>>>> Small Bushing With Ridge facing up.
>>>>>>> Bushing Holder Thing (not sure what its called) Goes In Between I think
>>>> Larger Bushing With Ridge Facing Down
7) Washer
Is this correct? Or should I pair up the smaller and larger bushings. Maybe larger on bottom, and smaller on top?

This is an image of a 97 accord. This is the picture I am going off on. Not sure if they are similar as my 2000 ex accord though.
I assembled it on a chopstick for now. I don't know how long the bolt it is on the honda accord, but might need atleast 7 inches. Also these bushings are really strong rubber. I can't even put a dent in them putting all my pressure on it. Not sure if this is a good or bad thing and not not even sure if I got the right item. Not sure how these will absorb the shock. Getting nervous.
Ah strut rod, I was not sure if you were speaking of the upper shock bushings or strut rod bushings.
In the image below note that that smaller bushing(#11) is mounted in front of the front beam, and the larger bushing(#10) is mounted behind the front beam. There is no bolt, the strut rod is what they mounted to with a large nut at the front.
-Raise the front of the car up, put it on jack stands, and disconnect the sway bar drop links by removing the nuts(#21) after removing the wheel.
-Remove plastic under tray.
-Unbolt the strut rod nut up front and then the two bolts on the control arm.
-Unbolt the strut rod from the lower control arm by removing the two attachment bolts(#25). For better access to the bolt heads steer the wheel left or right, this will pull the axle forward/backward enough for socket clearance. Be careful of the outer CV boot
-Remove the strut rod, and remove the old bushings and sleeve off the strut rod. Install your new bushings.
-Reinstall strut rod, torque two flanged bolts to 119lb-ft each, torque front nut(should be replaced) to 40lb-ft.
That blue thermo plastic the replacement bushings are made out of a material that is hard and more resiliant than the factory rubber bits, but will still squish. Unlike polyurethane bushings, which can cause binding issues. If you note the plastic can feel a bit waxy. It self lubricates.
If there are shims installed with the large washers(#15 & #13), they are used to correct caster. With new bushings you may or may not need the additional shims. Personally I would leave them out(keep #15/13 installed) and then bring the car to an alignment shop after replacing the strut rod bushings.
98-02 cars use 'drop links' that use ball joints no, these are different from 90-97 Accords that use 'end-links' with replaceable bushings.
Drop links are shown in the picture below(#4/5).
In the image below note that that smaller bushing(#11) is mounted in front of the front beam, and the larger bushing(#10) is mounted behind the front beam. There is no bolt, the strut rod is what they mounted to with a large nut at the front.
-Raise the front of the car up, put it on jack stands, and disconnect the sway bar drop links by removing the nuts(#21) after removing the wheel.
-Remove plastic under tray.
-Unbolt the strut rod nut up front and then the two bolts on the control arm.
-Unbolt the strut rod from the lower control arm by removing the two attachment bolts(#25). For better access to the bolt heads steer the wheel left or right, this will pull the axle forward/backward enough for socket clearance. Be careful of the outer CV boot
-Remove the strut rod, and remove the old bushings and sleeve off the strut rod. Install your new bushings.
-Reinstall strut rod, torque two flanged bolts to 119lb-ft each, torque front nut(should be replaced) to 40lb-ft.
That blue thermo plastic the replacement bushings are made out of a material that is hard and more resiliant than the factory rubber bits, but will still squish. Unlike polyurethane bushings, which can cause binding issues. If you note the plastic can feel a bit waxy. It self lubricates.
If there are shims installed with the large washers(#15 & #13), they are used to correct caster. With new bushings you may or may not need the additional shims. Personally I would leave them out(keep #15/13 installed) and then bring the car to an alignment shop after replacing the strut rod bushings.
98-02 cars use 'drop links' that use ball joints no, these are different from 90-97 Accords that use 'end-links' with replaceable bushings.
Drop links are shown in the picture below(#4/5).
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98CIVEX
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Sep 12, 2006 01:14 PM




