Replaced my lmas's using the following tutorial:

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...d-lma-2536305/

Everything went smooth but now vtec won't engage. Car pulls the same in lower rpms then stutters some when vtec should kick in - due to more aggressive mapping but same mild lift/duration I assume. Nothing on the vtec solenoid was unplugged or touched, it was just removed. Is there some kind of priming that should be done when it is removed? Vtec would definitely engage prior to lma replacement. Any ideas??

Oh yea, obd1 b20vtec - pr3 head

 

You must post car information. Add it to your first post.

 

Are you getting a CEL?

 

No cel, no odd sounds

 

Add car information also.

 

@ronj@ht : Engine is in a 95 civic coupe. Posted here instead of hybrid section because it's not about swapping, just general dohc vtec engine question; thought it seemed more appropriate here.

 

Does the CEL work?

Is the engine oil low?

Are the replacement LMAs a perfect match with the original LMAs in the head?

 

Yes, cel does work. The oil was low on my initial start up; ran for a few seconds then checked and filled. Went with skunk2 lmas and they were direct fit, lubed on install.

 

Can you post pics of the pressure switch and the solenoid sensors? Colors of wires and everything

 

Will be away from my car until later tonight, old pic from my phone is best i have for now

 

did you make sure to put the rods that the rocker arms go in back in the correct side? if you put them in wrong the holes for the oil to flow through wont line up quite right and it wont allow the pins to lock in all the cylinders. i have had the same issue in the past and when i took it apart again and double checked i had the intake side accidentally put in the exhaust

 

Look at this picture, you see those two rails on the right of the picture.




The most common problem that occurs during valve train removal is people mix those up by putting the intake on the exhaust. If you do this, you will lose VTEC.

It'll take 20 minutes to verify, but can you pull these off and verify the oil holes match the corresponding holes in the cam caps?

 

Thanks for the replies, those are some solid possibilities. I kept everything nice and organized so I'm 90% sure everything went back where it was supposed to but I will go back through it and check. If the rocker arm shafts are inserted 180 degrees off will that cause a problem? The inserts still went in but if the shafts only work one way, that could definitely be the culprit.
@slomofo : In the picture, I don't see the distinction between the intake and exhaust rails; the holes seem to be in the same place. Like I said, I'll go back through it and check but I'm not sure what to look for on the rails.
Also, I did make sure all the rocker arm pins were in place during install so that wouldn't be the problem. Upside down rocker arm shafts seem likely to me, can someone verify whether or not that will affect vtec engagement.

 

Upside down rockers probably wouldn't make it down the street without destroying your cams.

 

Not the rockers themselves but the shafts they ride on

 

If you have them in the wrong side it will do what you are describing is happening. I know because I made the same mistake. Car would act like it wanted to go in vtec but then when it was supposed I engage it would act up. If you have the rods switched the holes won't line up wih the holes in the rocker arms in all the cylinders which means the pins won't lock in all the cylinders