Help! How to Seperate Drive shaft from Knuckle
So I'm attempting to replacing my lower ball joint, but I'm stumped. My instructions say at this point I should be able to just slide the knuckle right off the drive shaft. Mine doesn't budge. Any ideas? I'm am just confused. Where is it suppose to separate?
Please tell me that I don't have to remove that center nut.... Because the manual neglected to include that step.... If that's the case I'm kinda screw as I can't break it with the tire off

Please tell me that I don't have to remove that center nut.... Because the manual neglected to include that step.... If that's the case I'm kinda screw as I can't break it with the tire off

You know, the whole time I'm doing this, I'm thinking "I feel like the axle nut should come off"..... But the manual glanced over this, so I figured I was wrong..... Should have gone with my instincts 
Does anyone have any suggestions how to break the axle nut with it off the ground?

Does anyone have any suggestions how to break the axle nut with it off the ground?
Put the rotor and caliper back on so that you can put a screwdriver through the rotor against the caliper to prevent it spinning
Or if you have any long ratchet extensions or breaker bars put it between two of the lug studs and brace against the ground or under body
Or if you have any long ratchet extensions or breaker bars put it between two of the lug studs and brace against the ground or under body
First think i always do, is remove the axle nut. I do it when the car is still on the ground, and simply use a large 32m socket, put it right through the center of the wheel with the center cap gone, get a big heavy duty breaker bar, go counter clockwise, and presto
if you have an impact use that. and font use those fork ball joint remover tool for ball joints, they will just ruin the balljoint and tear the boots. just loosen the bolt a few turns than hammer the outside and it will pop free
Trending Topics
Ok guys the axle nut is off.... However the knuckle and drive shaft are still not separating. What am I missing?
I've tried hammering away at it, PB blaster, heat and nothing is budging it
EDIT: Went to auto zone and rented a hub puller. Worked like a charm!
I've tried hammering away at it, PB blaster, heat and nothing is budging it
EDIT: Went to auto zone and rented a hub puller. Worked like a charm!
Last edited by Woogies; Jan 1, 2015 at 02:23 PM.
Good job! That's the right tool!
WHEN YOU GO TO REASSEMBLE, use automatic trans fluid on the axle splines!
Not anti seize or grease!
WHEN YOU GO TO REASSEMBLE, use automatic trans fluid on the axle splines!
Not anti seize or grease!
I'm sorry - I meant the inboards splines that go into the trans. Basically the seal surface needs to be lubricated so you don't ruin the seal with dry friction. I have used manual trans fluid/oil with no problem, but the books all say to use ATF - it is a better lubricant I guess.
Splines can get anti seize or grease no problem. Anti seize on the axle nut threads is fine too. Make sure you knock in the detent to hold the nut on after install.
Splines can get anti seize or grease no problem. Anti seize on the axle nut threads is fine too. Make sure you knock in the detent to hold the nut on after install.
and check the staking of the the axle nut after a week or so to make sure it hasn't slipped … over torqueing of the axle nut is the way lots of racers go about this … (but still check and recheck) especially the driver side axle nut ( I glance at it … re-torque it) after each track session
Everything is back together and it's at the shop now getting an alignment and tires balanced. Thanks for the assistance guys!
I have a OCD when it comes to torquing things correctly, but I'll check the axle nut in a few weeks to confirm it hasn't shifted
I have a OCD when it comes to torquing things correctly, but I'll check the axle nut in a few weeks to confirm it hasn't shifted
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
import810
Acura Integra
4
Sep 18, 2006 09:49 PM
07734
Acura Integra
12
Dec 1, 2004 06:51 PM






