Disect my build
Thoughts, concerns, possible outputs, I have searched but most if not all were budget builds with nippon type s pistons.
NA, DD, H22 sleeved - GE short block assembly
Wiseco 11.5.1+ cr, Cyl Head stock 87mm dome I guess we can call it?
Brian Crower sportsman rods ARP 2000 fasteners
P2W - 0.0035 Bearing Clearance:Main 1, 2, 4, 5 - 0.0018 ;Main 3 - 0.002 Rod - 0.002 Ring Eng Gap:1st - 0.018 2nd - 0.020
OEM HG 88mm bore
SRI, TB? possibly with tb spacer, Junk2IM, S2 thermal IM gasket
deatchswerks 420cc high impedence injectors
P28 Hondata S300 // phearable.net h22 (built list) basemap
S2 pro 1 cams, S2 pro series valvetrain, AEM tru-time cam gears
KS balance shaft delete, KS timing tensioner
ATI damper
ARP head studs
PLM 4-2-1 header 2.5" collector gonna send to JetHot for ceramic coating inside and out, 2.5" test pipe, 2.5" Invidia catback 101mm exhaust
Bisimoto lightened flywheel and while I was at it I got a 250hp rated ACT clutch from them cant remember how many pucks it was, I believe it was more then three though,... Its sitting in my kitchen closet if anyone is really wondering though.
OBD1 TD-61U distributor conversion
in a 2001 prelude base.
Was thinking about getting a synchrotech trans rebuild kit but if im going H2B in future might as well wait right. My trans is still good as of right now. Any other questions ill answer but I think that sums it up. I will start a build thread when I get the short block.
I will be rebuilding my head with ferrea bronze valve guides, ferrea valve seals, and keepers rest is S2 valvetrain. I have a zenocron mike belben cam degree kit so to much surprise I have and will learn alot since starting, and theres more to come. Thanks for reading, From me to you Happy New years from Schofield barracks HI.
NA, DD, H22 sleeved - GE short block assembly
Wiseco 11.5.1+ cr, Cyl Head stock 87mm dome I guess we can call it?
Brian Crower sportsman rods ARP 2000 fasteners
P2W - 0.0035 Bearing Clearance:Main 1, 2, 4, 5 - 0.0018 ;Main 3 - 0.002 Rod - 0.002 Ring Eng Gap:1st - 0.018 2nd - 0.020
OEM HG 88mm bore
SRI, TB? possibly with tb spacer, Junk2IM, S2 thermal IM gasket
deatchswerks 420cc high impedence injectors
P28 Hondata S300 // phearable.net h22 (built list) basemap
S2 pro 1 cams, S2 pro series valvetrain, AEM tru-time cam gears
KS balance shaft delete, KS timing tensioner
ATI damper
ARP head studs
PLM 4-2-1 header 2.5" collector gonna send to JetHot for ceramic coating inside and out, 2.5" test pipe, 2.5" Invidia catback 101mm exhaust
Bisimoto lightened flywheel and while I was at it I got a 250hp rated ACT clutch from them cant remember how many pucks it was, I believe it was more then three though,... Its sitting in my kitchen closet if anyone is really wondering though.
OBD1 TD-61U distributor conversion
in a 2001 prelude base.
Was thinking about getting a synchrotech trans rebuild kit but if im going H2B in future might as well wait right. My trans is still good as of right now. Any other questions ill answer but I think that sums it up. I will start a build thread when I get the short block.
I will be rebuilding my head with ferrea bronze valve guides, ferrea valve seals, and keepers rest is S2 valvetrain. I have a zenocron mike belben cam degree kit so to much surprise I have and will learn alot since starting, and theres more to come. Thanks for reading, From me to you Happy New years from Schofield barracks HI.
Last edited by ojasia; Jan 1, 2015 at 02:16 AM. Reason: h2b is an unreasonable mod
For this medium build the ATI might be overkill, with more parasitic loss from the extra weight, but I dunno. I guess that would depend if you're going to rev it 9,000+rpm or not.
Sounds pretty good overall
Sounds pretty good overall
Ok, no engine won't be seeing 9k + , do you think it has the potential to be making power that high with pro1's? Any one have another opinion on the ati? Lower end will be balanced by Golden Eagle and balance shafts deleted. I would think it would be safe insurance though with it, for daily drivers sake.
The damper definitely won't hurt anything so you're good lol. The extra dampening is just needed mainly in the higher RPMs I belive, when higher engine harmonics and vibrations start compounding on each other an put exponential stress in internal components.
If the damper is not needed, it may drain a couple hp due to it being heavier than the stock pulley, but definitely won't hurt anything. With a balanced bottom end, your motor would be perfectly fine for DDing, even without balance shafts.
If the damper is not needed, it may drain a couple hp due to it being heavier than the stock pulley, but definitely won't hurt anything. With a balanced bottom end, your motor would be perfectly fine for DDing, even without balance shafts.
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