What size Tb for my setup do the Honda-tech guru's Think? It is a DD and I dont wanna be sucking water through a garden hose. Only adding the mods I think are critical to my question, So if anyone wants to say oh btw you'll want this for that if you really want this.... Dont I probably already do have it. Nothing has been spared on this build. I know I'm crazy for spending so much for the measly maybe 220+- whp, yet if I can get atleast 225whp I will be sure happy enough for awhile... With that though I want the highest torque I can get so I'd rather have 160 wtq then 225whp so if I must drop to 220 215 for more tq I probably will. What do the guru's think?

Engine Setup:
H22 sleeved 88mm GE mfg short block assembly
Wiseco 11.5.1+ (87mm Cyl. Head not being port matched GE said thats the biggest bore you can go without doing this)
Stock stroke- Love me sum 8k rev's
PLM 4-2-1 header 2.5" catless to a 2.5" Invidia catback 101mm coffee can
Short ram intake // literally K&N filter strapped to TB
Junk2 IM
P28 Hondata S300 -- 420cc DW's
Pro 1+ cams full S2 pro series valvetrain
Bisi Flywheel
If you need more mods I can keep going Lol.. I picked the pro 1's for reasons 1: I want to keep my stock rev limit 2: my cr 3: I liked the idea of the pro then the tuners being I get advances across the entire rev range. Should I be concerned with (Quench) area with the cyl. head being smaller?
GE sold me OEM 88mm HG

 

With that though I want the highest torque I can get so I'd rather have 160 wtq then 225whp so if I must drop to 220 215 for more tq I probably will. What do the guru's think?

Did I just answer my own question???
Would running smallest .ie stock throttle bodie net me the most tq?

 

More torque=more horse power. The only way youll bump torque and lose power is a combination of cam timing to favor the mid range. As far as tb sizing, I honestly think a 60mm tb is more than enough but others will say you should size your tb to match the intake manifold opening

 

60mm is just the stock TB size. That may be enough to support your power goals with certain mods, but it is certainly not ideal and will be the "bottleneck" in your build.

I would say get a 68mm to match the mani. I have seen builds that use 70mm on builds with less mods than yours and they saw gains (you'll have to take my word on that one, I don't have proof on hand). But 68mm should be perfect IMO

 

You will be down 10-15whp right off the bat running just a filter and not the proper intake.

 

Best intake for this setup would be a stepped 3in intake tappered down to the 68mm TB, ammi right 98vtec? That would at least be a good starting point and fine tune from there

 

Right now I'm only running stock everything invidia 2.5" catback, waiting for the short block from GE, but when I had the aem cai it seemed to be suffcoating, like the engine was working hard to pull air. And me pulling from my buds frs when I switched it to straight tb concurred with my butt dyno. And while running with aem cai he would have the low-mid on me.

 

H22's LOVE air.

I'd do a 4-3.5" intake tapered down to 3" into a 76mm TB. Let that thing breath.

 

So the piping is pretty much to funnel air to Tb. And the larger diameter makes it theoretically shorter then it is. taper Creates velocity, like the BPI stack. I just dont see the reason for it unless it actually funneled to a ram-air. Although I have not done to much intake research, R&D, etc.

For street use, DD, I like the effects of this setup far greater then CAI, But that is just until the swap is complete then the dyno will ultimately be a deciding factor on intake setup.

I wonder Larger TB with CAI would help that suffocating I think is going on?
Like longer intake piping favor larger TB's and shorter would favor a bump in velocity.

 

I'm waiting for the HT fluid-motion/physics guru's to chime in. (sarcasm)

Many NA racers use a tapered intake intake arm strategy and have the pipe where it meets up to the TB matched. It seems to produce the best power and is what the "norm" is becoming. In theory you are taking the most air possible (4" draw) and speeding it up to push it through a 3" port. More air w/ a faster delivery will create more power. This is what turbos do on a much larger scale...

I myself am doing a tapered intake setup, nothing fancy, but still is applying this theory.

12" of 3.5" pipe w/ a Velocity stack attached to 18" of 3" pipe going through a 70mm TB and into a large plenum IM (Victor x). I want to fill the plenum as quickly and with as much air as possible.
"dense velocity"

 

Like I said,

 

I don't get the sarcasm

I do like this explanation of it

I'm using an s2000 intake tube, which tapers from 3 inches down to my 62mm tb smoothly. Should work very well I think, except I cant port 62mm up to 68 to match the Skunk 2 manifold opening, and my skunk 2 TB is too big and hits the firewall :/

What are you using to match your 3in pipe to 70mm TB? (70mm is 2.755in)

 

My sarcasm is there are no fluid motion/physics experts here to really explain this. And most people cant grasp it anyways.

I wont have my intake pipe 100% matched unfortunately, at least from the get go. I may buy a 76mm TB (3") down the road to accomplish that, but for now I'll have to put up with a 1/4" difference and get up running

 

I see. That's kind of how I feel about my TB not being port matched for now, I just want to get going. I think I'm going to port my stock mani and use that S2 TB I have and see if I can get gains from that, later down the road. It'd be a fun little mod to start to learn how to tune as well I think.

I got you now lol. I've been wanting to learn more about it. I've done quite a bit of research in the past but not "expert" level, yet