the car is a 1990 civic lx with a z6 block/ y8 head, original tranny

the block is a z6 and i thought the tranny was too but when i replaced my throwout bearing i realized the tranny is still from the original 1990 civic.

I bought the z6 clutch to put in during my motor rebuild. The car is running now but when i put it in gear she pretty much dies immediately as i let the clutch out. If I bump start it and i can cruise around real slow but when i shift into second it stutters and dies and it feels like its grabbing strange.

im not sure if i have the wrong clutch in there or my clutch cable just isnt adjusted properly.

The clutch disc fit on the spline perfectly and lined up with the fly wheel. and i had no problems bolting on the pressure plate. I had my fly wheel resurfaced too.

theres also the fact that im having low compression because my rings arent seated yet. (i know its not my head gasket or valves because i had my head resurfaced and complete valve job and i adjusted my lashings for all 4 TDC. and i had put a different head on previously and got the same exact results for compression)

some people are saying my timing could be off but i really dont think so but i mean if that could cause this issue then how can i argue.

more or less i think i just need to adjust the clutch cable and im not really sure whether to tighten or loosen and i dont want to ruin the clutch in case i have to return it.

****SOLVED : Issue was that the white wire going to my map sensor on the intake manifold was disconnected. it is okay to use the z6 clutch and pressure plate in the 1990 tranny. car drives perfect**********

 

What car?

 

the body is a 1990 civic lx.

 

If you bought a clutch for a z6 hydro transmission and are using a cable one now yes it's the wrong clutch

 

okay so even tho everything fits and lines up properly according to block and flywheel, because of the cable/hydro difference the presseur plate and clutch disc are not compatable with my tranny despite the splines being the same?

 

the Z6 clutch disc and pressure plate are fine with your 90 flywheel and transmission - you need to be using the 88-91 clutch release bearing

 

yeah man i have the proper throw out bearing in there. the rest is all z6 stuff but my car is still dying as soon as i let the clutch out. i adjusted my free play and it is good now. im going to try to put on the clutch disc and pressure plate i took off tom

 

adjusted clutch cable it didnt help im going to swap the old clutch in tom

 

im one of those who say it sound like a timing issue

this clutch must fit.

 

Not a clutch problem. Timing or tuning is my call.

 

yeah its just so wierd because when i bump start it it drives in first gear pretty well i mean who likes to drive around in first gear for a while it just doesnt feel right to do. but as soon as i shift into second and let clutch out slow fast whatever it just wants to die so i push clutch back in and it runs. till i try to move again

i guess ill do my timing again i dont have a tune all i can really do is the same way just be more careful i guess? i wont be able to do it anytime soon because im going home for two weeks

 

what ecu are you using? which distributor? any check engine lights?

 

i dont know what ecu i have all it says is something alliance. but it was a full z6 before and it ran fine it just smoked alot thats why i rebuilt it also just for fun.

i went back and i was able to drive in reverse i had to slip clutch and rev a little extra so it wouldnt die. i moved it to where it will be for the next 2 weeks.

i took a look under hood and found a wire that came out of the butt connector it went to a sensor right on the very top left of the intake manifold just above where it meets the filter. it was a white wire i will repair that later as i am going to be away for two weeks. where the connector got plugged in is circled in red below.

also i was able to get it going from a stop in first by really revving it high like 4-4.5k rpms and making sure it stayed like that and i drove around in first a bit making sure to not let rpms drop too low and then i was able to even get it into second by doing the same thing jsut keeping rpms high and slipping the clutch a bit. pretty shortly after i take foot off gas as if coming to a stop the car dies.

im going to dtriple check my timing when i get back and redo lashings. if that doesnt work im going to get my block bored and resurfaced since i didnt do that in the first place and now im really kicking myself in the *** for not at least getting it honed and resurfaced but im a noob and i guess you live and learn and trying to take shortcuts like that just ends up screwing you in the long run like troubleshooting right now. at least then i could say for sure that my low compression wasnt from the block being messed up.

thank you guys for all the help i think i have officially determined its not the clutch like most people were already saying.

also pictured below circled in green is a hose port that im not sure what it gets connected to but before it was looped to the cruise control port on the back side of the intake so i just capped them both off, if anyone knows about the green one please lmk

 

That sensor is the map sensor. Very important, without that working properly, your car will run like crap and die. As for that hose inlet circled green, run that red hose coming from the firewall to it, near the fuel filter. Fix the sensor first before adjusting the timing.

 

Bingo. The MAP is very important, I bet that's your problem. The port in the green oval is for the EVAP, it will not keep the engine from running correctly. You can either connect it to the firewall port or plug both, it depends on how environmentally conscious you are.

 

well that solves that fixed the map sensor wire and everything works great. what a relief. thank you guys for all the help