In process of doing oil pan gasket on my 2002 Civic EX VTEC I noticed the pan has a cracked corner. It is aluminum.

I don't really want to go to the junkyard and spend the 45 minutes to 1 hour and 15 to pull a pan when junk yards have them for $30 (LATER EDIT: $30 for steel pan, $65-75 for aluminum pan).

But the junkyard search database has a lot of non-VTEC oil pans, which I guess are steel?

Is there a difference? Is one better than the other?

 

The aluminum pan holds 0.3 quarts more oil but, you can use the steel pan. I wouldn't take the chance though, that's almost 10% of your oil.

nationwide salvage listings: Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market Look for an EX or HX pan.

 

Thanks, that is the website I was using. For some reason they have 1 listing for VTEC and over a dozen for "base 1.7".

Yet, some of the descriptions are aluminum under the base model..

I have a decent gusher, I am hoping it is just the oil pan gasket....

 

If there's a question just call them and ask if it's aluminum.

There's no gasket with the aluminum pan, only Hondabond.

 

Hmmmm....I bought a gasket?????? Are you sure....So I cannot use my gasket?

 

I'm sure. steel= gasket, aluminum= Hondabond

 

That's good. I returned the gasket and silicone for $25 and got the Hondabond for $15.

Some people are saying just to apply the Hondabond on the corners, and to go in a special order when tightening bolts.

The Honda dealership I went to said they apply the HB all the way around and that using my ratcht manually, as long as I don't try to be superman on the bolts, I should be fine...??

 

The crankshaft seal has an ever so slight gap on one tiny part and appears to maybe have stretched over time.

My cousin, who is doing the job, is gonna put some Hondabond around it, hoping it prevents a leak for a few months (or if lucky a few years).

This job didn't go so smoothly so far (freezing cold garage), lying on back...

And replacing the crankshaft seal seems like we'd just be opening up another can of worms that lasts for a couple days before resolved!

Question: From your experiences will sealing the CS seal with HB work temporarily?

 

Finished. I'd say about 2 good hours pulling it down. And another 2 putting back up.

Freezing cold garage in 20-30 degree weather. Cousin did all the work! It didn't look very enjoyable.

Since he slapped some Hondabond on the crankshaft seal we are gonna let it sit for maybe 2 days so it can set. Then add the oil. I'll report back on whether problem is fixed.

 

I have no idea.

Put Hondabond all the way around in a 4mm strip and a dab at each of the 4 corners of the rounded flange on the ends.

Start with the center bolt on one side, then go straight across, then to the bolt beside the first one, then diagonally to the one beside the second bolt. And so on. Tighten to 8.7ft-lbs in three stages.

*Wait at least 30 minutes before you put oil in the engine.

 

Well - waited 3 days to add oil. Started it and let it run for an hour. Came out to a baseball-sized leak under the front corner of pan. I believe it is the crankshaft seal.

I poured some $15 magic potion into it (stop leak) to see if it will be a miracle fix.

Otherwise how many hours labor do you think a mechanic will charge?

 

I've never really seen stop leak work on anything.

It varies from place to place but, it isn't cheap.

If it is in fact only the crankshaft seal that's just like $200 (parts and labor) BUT, to do the crankshaft seal the timing belt has to come off first. The timing belt package (belt, tensioner and water pump) usually runs $600-900. Parts alone for the timing belt package run $200-300. And they'll charge you for that labor even if you have them put the old parts back on, which I would not recommend unless it was already done very recently.

 

Gotcha. Well, I took out my rubber mats and noticed the driver floor was really wet. So I put the floor heat on and let it idle for about an hour. Went out and saw a softball sized leak. Wiped off the pan area as best I could...

You might think I'm crazy but at O'Reilleys a guy highly recommended this stuff called "Blue Devil Rear Main Sealer" for $14.99.

I added it and let it idle for another hour and there was only a small drop...Wiped it away and let it idle another 45 minutes or so and so far no new drops.

 

Good. Now remember that stuff is only a temporary fix. If you don't have a mechanic that you know then shop around and get 3 quotes minimum.

Also, they almost always want to diagnose the problem themselves rather than take your word. Usually they charge like $100 for diagnosis, then once they diagnose it they'll put that $100 back into the total bill.