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Day 1 - My accord 02 got flooded recently in heavy rain. Water came inside the car and got completely socked. The whole event took for about half an hour or so... Later moved my car to higher ground away from water.
Day 2- Still some water was left inside. I tried to start get some water out but not completely cleared. As I have a comprehensive Ins cover so reported for a claim. So till my papers are ready i shouldn't tamper the car. So didn't do anything on it.
Day 3- As the car laying 3 days on hot sunny weather. hoping that the car should be okay, I tried to start it. It Cranks but not start. Checked engine, tranny fluids found no water. Little water was inside spark plug socket#1 from left side. Now whenever i turn on, the D4 Indicator keeps flashing 8 times while the check engine lights came on too. This wasn't there on previous days.
Am worried if i caused any serious damages Or is it still fixable? how much would cost me to fix (approx)? Even if the car is total loss, the insurance company will pay lesser money than the car value. I love this baby so much. I don't want to scrap it if he's workable.
Am sure still some water is left inside the exhaust. I have no idea how to get this out. Am i leaving him to die. I have noticed some plugs are still wet inside and found green color patches. Also found the power is not coming out of distributor to the spark plugs.
Dumbest thing i did to the car, now i know i shouldn't is I restarted the car couple of times in panic while it is still in the water.
If your car was in water deep enough to fill the sparkplug tubes then your ECM got wet as well. If you tried to start it with wet electronics, it's possible you've done damage to it along with any and all electronic components under your dash and in the engine compartment. You may have water in the engine oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid etc.
I'm not saying categorically that it can't be fixed at home but it is unlikely. You have massive amounts of work ahead of you.
Thanks a lot michael... The water wasn't that deep... it was only half way to the wheel... It just got splashed up on the engine by the radiator fans perhaps when i was racing thru... I said about presence of water inside spark plug socket.. its just little bit of... kind a wet i should say... That too on the first socket... rest is fine... About how the water got inside the car is because some SUVs pass by me when i opened the door created some waves brought the water IN... It wasn't more than half an hour I was in the water... I moved the vehicle to higher ground for safety... Allowing it to dry for 3 days in sun... tried to start the car, it cranks but didn't start... Found No spark coming out of distributor... Now D4 light on the dash blinks as I start moving the gear handle... Also the check engine light comes and goes some times...
I forget to mention before starting the car i checked the oils first from engine and Trans.. Both are fine, No water in there...
I took the car to a workshop, they diagnosed it is distributor that's not allowing it to start... Once it starts thy will tell me what else i should fix... So far its Dist only...
When starting some times only the tik sound comes... May be after 2nd or 3rd attempt the car cranks... Self motor too has some problem he said...
Now my biggest worry is the blinking D4... It blinks 8 times... doesn't know if it means something... some error codes from TCU...
I took the car to a workshop, they diagnosed it is distributor that's not allowing it to start... Once it starts thy will tell me what else i should fix... So far its Dist only...
When starting some times only the tik sound comes... May be after 2nd or 3rd attempt the car cranks... Self motor too has some problem he said...
Now my biggest worry is the blinking D4... It blinks 8 times... doesn't know if it means something... some error codes from TCU...
these codes are for 94, but maybe they work for your 2002. Tranny codes.
I hardly feel the gears are shifting... D4 to R gives a strong jerk sounds "DUCK" thats audible... Any ideas what is should do? Found tiny bubbles on engine oil dipstick... Is it some thing that i need to be worried also...
Hello Guys,
I got a question, OBD scan pulled out only the codes (P1705, P1706) related to Transmission Range Switch. Will the TRS affect the car from shifting after second gears! As for as I hear from ppl is that it is only a safety switch which won't allow us to start the car when the gear shifter is not in N or P. But am quite sure my car only shifts till second gear and nothing further.
Won't the OBD pull codes if something wrong with shift solenoids or something like that? where should i look for? Also i noticed my car's rpm jumps rapidly whenever i shift the gears. Hard jerk can be felt too (N To D4 To R). When I push the gas pedal for a sec and leave, the rpm goes crazy (bouncing) around 1000 to 2000. What this one is about? I know my car has got more than one problem... If anyone fixed these, please help....
when the car floods out it wlll wash down the cylinder walls with gasoline and you will not have any compression so it will crank and spray but not light off the mixture.
if the oil is full of gas, change the oil and filter.
when the car floods out it wlll wash down the cylinder walls with gasoline and you will not have any compression so it will crank and spray but not light off the mixture.
if the oil is full of gas, change the oil and filter.
Hondas have a 'clear flood' mode built into the PCM. to go into clear flood mode hold the accelerator pedal down on the floor and crank the engine. don't crank it for more than 15 seconds. if it doesn't start, give the starter 5 minutes to cool down then do it again. holding the accelerator pedal on the floor will not add additional fuel in clear flood mode; in fact, it will shut the fuel off; the accelerator pedal only controls air.
the heavy water won't cause the flooding. if the car ingested water it would lock the engine up. flooding is caused by continued cranking of a car that won't start so the plugs get fouled out. I don't know what year your son's car is; some cars had a problem with leaking valve cover grommets that would let oil down into the spark plug tubes and that would cause the plugs to foul.
change the oil and filter then give it a go; it should start in clear flood mode.
Nice! I've had the same problem in Florida, but I guess I was lucky... after taking the caps off all electrical equipment, changing oil, and draining some water from the exhaust I left it sit for a week with doors/windows open and it came back to life :-)
Thanks everyone for your valuable comments... Have got lots of info... Actually after spending couple of 100 bucks got the car running back on street... But the issues now is different... MAX RPM the car can get is only till 5000... Engine kinda hesitates to move further.... If i suddenly leave my gas pedal off, the RPM keeps bouncing... Even when the car is running at around 70km/hr... The RPM falls down and jumps back to normal.... This is all about the Engine problems am facing right now...
As for as Tranny is concern, D4 keeps blinking... Car doesn't shift gears after second gear... I tried to give gas... even after 3000 rpms... no gear shifts... On OBD scan I got P1705 & 1706 codes which is for transmission range switch.. Not sure if that could cause this shifting problem...
Am glad, My car is fixing itself... Somewhere I read about ECU/PCM fuse to be pulled out to reset the computer... I did that... D4 flashing has stopped... It comes and goes but not always there... Most of the time not flashing... Also i feel the gears shifting normally and rpm is withing range 2- 2.5 at around 80km/hr...
Now the only issue i have is the car's rpm randomly bounces... Meaning whenever i want to slow down the car on traffic.. I apply brake rpm comes down and shoots up more than 1500... which is kinda weird... Also rpm keeps bouncing when i suddenly press the gas n leave it.... It reacts when ever i shift the gear... From D4 to N to R or vice versa.... What could be the culprit...
Back probe the TPS, if it is worn out or was damaged from flooding the carbon tracking could be corrupted.
Turn the car to II(ON) and back probe the sensor, you should have a nice linear voltage change from closed to open. Check your FSM for diagnostics.
After fixing many things there was some extra noise from under the hood... For which my mechanic advised to fix the Compressor bearing... which i did... Filled with new freon too... But when turned on the compressor clutch doesn't engage... after 2 days of the repair Only hot air blows in...
I can't feel the compressor starting up when the switch is turned on... AC guy said compressor is fine... its electrical issue... He showed me by applying direct power to somewhere in the fuse box and AC started running...
Which part could probably causing this.... He said better you change the complete fuse box under the hood.... Any suggestions?