2000 CR-V timing belt tension
Hi forum,
I just did a head gasket replacement on my 2000 crv twin cam B20Z2 motor.
I 'm not sure I have the timing belt tight enough, I have about 3/8 inch of up and down movement between the 2 cam sprockets. Is that too much?
I did the haynes manual process about 4-5 times, it 's still not as tight as it was when I disaaembled.
Also, my compression is 155-165 PSI in all cylinders, is that ok?
Thanks, David
I just did a head gasket replacement on my 2000 crv twin cam B20Z2 motor.
I 'm not sure I have the timing belt tight enough, I have about 3/8 inch of up and down movement between the 2 cam sprockets. Is that too much?
I did the haynes manual process about 4-5 times, it 's still not as tight as it was when I disaaembled.
Also, my compression is 155-165 PSI in all cylinders, is that ok?
Thanks, David
The valve train makes the cams have opposite direction tension at TDC, so this is probably how you are getting that deflection. I turn the engine so all the slack is on the tensioner side of the belt, and then set the tensioner adjustment. Also, make sure to turn the engine several rotations so that the belt is aligned onto the pulleys, this can make a huge difference when setting final tension.
too tight and you will snap a new belt like I did last winter.
it's okay to have slack.
What you're looking for is to loosen the tensioner pulley when it is at TDC.
then rotate about 6 times to get the belt to seat properly.
Once back at TDC rotate just enough to make the cam gears go from a + to a x
when they are at a x you stop there and tighten the tensioner. it doesn't need to be any tighter than that. it will have slack at times which is okay.
if you're seriously worried about it do like I did and watch the video eric the car guy does on honda bseries timing belt changes
it's okay to have slack.
What you're looking for is to loosen the tensioner pulley when it is at TDC.
then rotate about 6 times to get the belt to seat properly.
Once back at TDC rotate just enough to make the cam gears go from a + to a x
when they are at a x you stop there and tighten the tensioner. it doesn't need to be any tighter than that. it will have slack at times which is okay.
if you're seriously worried about it do like I did and watch the video eric the car guy does on honda bseries timing belt changes
Align everything, tighten tensioner, rotate 3 revolutions and check to make sure everything is on mark. If good loosen tension, turn the crank until the cam gears have moved about 3 teeth than tighten tensioner. DONE/BEER/SEX.
LOL at some of the **** in this thread.
With belt on and everything at TDC and centered, tighten the tension/idler pulley snug then back it off about half a turn. You are looking for the ability for it to be able to move freely without allowing it to deflect/tilt. Rotate engine CCW at least 3 teeth. Retighten the idler pulley. Rotate engine CCW back to when the cams are at TDC and verify crankshaft and camshaft marks all line up. If they do you are good to go.
If you want to recheck your belt slop then rotate the engine CCW about 3 teeth and check tension. This all assumes you have a more stock engine. If you have upgraded valve springs and such then there is an added step.
With belt on and everything at TDC and centered, tighten the tension/idler pulley snug then back it off about half a turn. You are looking for the ability for it to be able to move freely without allowing it to deflect/tilt. Rotate engine CCW at least 3 teeth. Retighten the idler pulley. Rotate engine CCW back to when the cams are at TDC and verify crankshaft and camshaft marks all line up. If they do you are good to go.
If you want to recheck your belt slop then rotate the engine CCW about 3 teeth and check tension. This all assumes you have a more stock engine. If you have upgraded valve springs and such then there is an added step.
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Sep 10, 2003 07:47 AM



